Like many others with the Hayward H100, I found that the steel baffle (diverter) plate inside the heater had broken free from its weld. (The weld is, I believe, actually bondo or epoxy, as it has noticeable drips). This was causing banging, popping, whining in the heater, due to water boiling over in the heat tubes. The heater core has three parallel tubes; the first overheats, while the two further down the water path stay cool. I've repaired the baffle using JB Weld. I get much less banging now - but it still persists, and the first heat scavenging tube is still very hot to the touch. I can't determine why. The heater is heating evenly, and water is flowing at about 35 gal/minute, estimated (The heater has a 20gal/minute minimum.) The heater had previously worked for about a year. Any suggestions as to what needs further repair, or what to test?
Do you use tablets on skimmer?
On line tab feeder?
They damage metals fast , if not then read
Internal by pass valve need to be replace , check for calcium build up ( white inside ) if any must replace heater, if you have use of tablets then replace heater and nevera doit again
I am having the same problem. the Baffle was loose so I attached it with a little gap at the top, then started shaking and pulsating but not as mush this time. Like you I'm not sure where exactly the baffle shoud be, or if there is something else that was damaged. Hopefully someone can chime in that had a successful repair. Or with any other thoughts.
Are you still running the heater? I have for a couple of (seperate) days and it is heating up, just not sure if it is safe to do, or will it cause more damage.
Also while it was shaking & rattling, I tilted the heater forward to a 45 degree angle and it stopped for a little bit, but then continued, which make me wonder if there is a flow problem and maybe the inlet side of the baffle should not be all the way to the top.
Please let me know if you find anything out when you strip it down.
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Thank
you for posting your question here on Fixya.com.
The
Hayward H100 has a diverter plate welded into the header that helps direct some
of the water flowing thru into the heat exchanger to heat the water. If the
weld fails the diverter can interfere with that flow and cause overheating or
poor flow thru the heater which in turn can lead to the problems you describe.
Remove
the inlet side hose once you have blocked the flow of water from the pool and
you should see the diverter in the inlet. If you can move it then it is broken
and needs to be fixed back in place or the whole heat exchanger needs to be
replaced.
If
the diverter is not moving then your issue is likely an overall water flow one
and the next place to look is the filter. Poor overall system flow may be
enough to close the pressure switch telling the heater the pump is on but not
enough to keep the water in the exchanger from getting too hot, again causing
the symptoms you describe.
If
this answer does not fix your problem, please comment with additional details
prior to rating the answer. You may also contact me thru our website at www.arrowpools.net. Positive feedback is appreciated
once your problem is solved!
John
Thank you for posting your question here on Fixya.com.
Does the banging continue until the heater eventually shuts off or does it quit shortly after the heater burners start up? In either case you can repair the heater for much, much less than a new unit. The bypass may be the issue if it is stuck closed. You will also want to inspect the control valve in the header and inspect the overall condition of the heat exchanger. It is likely aggressive water has damaged some or all of these parts causing the banging noise you hear. It is also possible there is an issue with the pump and/or filter not getting enough flow thru the heater but I have to assume your pool man eliminated those possibilities when he looked at the heater.
Was the pool man not able to repair or at least inspect the heater further for you?
If this answer does not fix your problem, please comment with additional details prior to rating the answer. Positive feedback is appreciated once your problem is solved!
John
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The heater is actually an older H100, not the H150 - the actual model was not on the list.
Doesn't appear to be scale anywhere inside - I don't think there's significant corrosion - it all looks clean (though it's impossible to see down in there). Thoughts?
I've been considering selling more of the baffles contact with the tube, but I don't think that would be wise and am concerned about the underlying problem. Any other ideas?
'filling' not 'selling'.
I've considered trying to get a pipe cleaner or something inside there to find out if there is corrosion I can't see. Has anyone tried that? Would that create this problem?
With the baffle fixed in place, it bangs much, much less. But still some. I am wondering if the baffle is incorrectly placed. Specifically, I wonder whether on the inlet side it should completely close the pipe. Does anyone have one of these they can examine, or otherwise know? Or know where I might find a photo or diagram?
I'm getting the idea that FixYa is more about selling ads than actually having a community of troubleshooters and DIY-ers. I guess I should have guessed that from the way some questions go years between comments, huh?
Jesse, I plan on stripping the whole thing down shortly and will have more info then. Thanks for the post, and let's stay in touch.
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