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Baldor Motor Wiring problem

I am trying to replace the start and run capacitors for a grain bin fan. The old parts were taken out and wires removed before I became involved so I don't know how to connect the new parts. The wiring diagram which was in the unit is very old & worn- I've tried to make a photo copy and mark in the info which was worn off. I believe the appropriate diagram is the one in the center.

There are two start capacitors which are 216-259 microfarads. (They are the black cyclindrical looking items in the photo). The run capacitors are 20 micro farads. (They are the oblong silver colored items in the photo.)

I don’t understand physically how these are connected. I tried several scenarios and the motor just hums.

Please help. (If the photos didn't get attached because they are too large, please give me an e-mail address where I can send them. Thanks so much

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  • Anonymous Mar 29, 2009

    DO NOT KNOW HOW TO WIRE CAPACITERS IN SERIES WITH BALDOR MOTOR FORAIR COMPRESSOR

  • Craig Butler
    Craig Butler May 11, 2010

    Many questions here. How many leads? Are they numbered? Is there any name plate info? I can help but you must look at what you have ...good info on the caps...keep going.

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5 Suggested Answers

  • 143 Answers

SOURCE: Wiring compressor

The two terminal cap is only for the new fan motor. Connect the compressor wire back where you found it, on the 3 terminal cap. It's the terminal marked, "herm". The "common" terminal on the 3 terminal cap must still be connected to one side of the 220 power at the contactor. One side of the 220 goes to the common on the compressor. The other side of the 220 goes to the run winding on the compressor AND the common terminal on the 3 terminal capacitor.

Posted on Jul 22, 2008

burzerko
  • 254 Answers

SOURCE: HELP!!! Help wiring new motor for CKL60-1

  1. This is what your wiring should look like if you are using two caps. then you should be using a potential relay as well. This is the diagram for using a potential relay. Hope it helps you.
Thank Youe461749.jpeg

Posted on Aug 28, 2008

  • 157 Answers

SOURCE: wiring motion sensor light

Hello Lesco1, first check the bulb, second I need Mgfr & model, third attempt BK from house to R of sensor & BK from sensor to BK of bulb.

Posted on Nov 12, 2008

joboo1
  • 256 Answers

SOURCE: older sears bench grinder wont run 1/3 hp model 397 19581

Hi again, OK, Well since I don't have a wiring diagram and the colors don't help. I am also going to assume it is 110VAC. The larger wires are probably the run or primary, it you remember which ones were connected it will help with polarizing. ( getting it to run in the right direction as well as the start and primary working together). You can use the two terminal switch but you should use a three wire cord. Use the switch to break the neutral and ground the case. The connections should be as follows: Connection 1, would have one of the primaries and one of the starts to neutral. Connection 2, the other start to the relay. Connection 3, the coil side of the relay to the remaining primary. ( if the relay has two connections on one end and one on the other it would be the single) Connection 4, the 3rd position on the relay to hot. That is how a split phase is wired. You may find a simple wiring diagram on the net if you type split phase motor wiring diagram. Good Luck to you, this should Fixya!

Posted on Mar 04, 2009

  • 8 Answers

SOURCE: pool motor wiring

First and foremost, you need to check the Motor's voltage requirements, and match it to the voltage of the GFI you have connected to the House current.

The best way to do this is to use a volt meter at the GFI receptacle. Although it's likely the voltage at your GFI receptacle is 120Volts AC, you shouldn't guess on this. If you know what circuit breaker this GFI is using to get power.... you may be able to determine the GFI's voltage if you know how to distinquish between a single pole breaker and a two pole breaker (120Volts is derived from a sigle pole breaker, 240volts from a two pole breaker-which is twice the size of a single pole breaker).

Now the Motor: Most common Pool Motors are dual winding motors, on which, the voltage requirement could be changed to match the voltage supplied. On such a motor, there's a compartment where the cord is attached. Within this compartment, there's a configuration of screws or terminal points, and a related schematic which depicts the proper connections for each of the voltage options. By following these schematics, you will know how to connect the motor based on the available voltage supplied by your GFI protected receptacle.

Posted on Mar 23, 2009

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1 Answer

Wiring- Connecting wiring on replaced fan motor


Your new fan motor should have a diagram with it or at least printed on the side of the motor, that will help a lot from your end. As for me, I don't know what unit you have, so I will try to help you with just the basics.

Your old motor probably had 3 wires. One went to the contactor, that is the "Line Voltage", one went to the Common terminal on the old capacitor (COM), that's the other "Line Voltage" wire, and the last one went to the "FAN" terminal on the old capacitor. The reason the old capacitor looks different is because it works for both the compressor and the fan motor (split capacitor). You still need this hooked up for the compressor to work.

The new fan motor.
These vary in brands and wiring so I can not tell you the colors without knowing exactly which motor you have. On the new motor wiring diagram, you should see the "Line Voltage" as described above that 2 of the wires are ran to each other (just on the diagram, not wired together on the unit). This is your power wire that goes to the contactor on the unit, usually black, and your Common wire that runs to the capacitor. You can still run this wire (COM) to the common terminal on the old capacitor since you still have to use the old capacitor for the compressor and the common terminal should still be jumper-ed from the contactor to the (COM) terminal. Then you will probably have 2 wires for the new capacitor, usually Brown and Brown/White. These wires run to each side of the new capacitor and doesn't matter which terminal. Then you will take a new jumper wire from the (COM) terminal on the old capacitor to the terminal on the new capacitor that has your Brown/White lead. Make sure you secure the capacitors inside the unit so not to touch anything surrounding them. Your new motor might also be a "Reversible" motor that has reversing wires also. Again, your new motor diagram can tell you how to hook these up. You have to have it spinning the right way, most of the time it is CCW (counter-clockwise).

I'm sorry I can't be any clearer on this, but without knowing the brands, models, etc, I'm in the dark. If you need any additional help, I would be glad to help! Good luck and hope you get to cooler days!

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Hi, W/D here.

Two things jump out at me. The motor start capacitor and the motor itself.
The capacitor gives the motor that kick that it needs to start. If you can hear the motor hum, but not rotate, it just might be the capacitor.
If it is the motor proper, changing the capacitor wont cure it. There are many reasons that a motor can fail, the most common being problems with the windings and bearing failure.
If you are doing this on the cheap, try replacing the capacitor. If this saves you, fine. But be prepared to replace the motor as well. If you have excessive play in the motor shaft when you push it in and pill it out, or feel difficulty when trying to spin the fan by hand (with the breaker tripped off, of course), then the motor would be suspect. Never change the motor without also changing the capacitor as well.
I recently (yesterday) changed a motor and capacitor for the same reasons. The cost of a selectable speed (low/medium/high) motor, capacitor, and packet of crimp-on terminals came to $109.00
You can troubleshoot your motor in place, but will need to remove the motor/fan housing to replace the motor if this is the issue. Usually, the housing fits into slide tabs and is held in place by bolts (2) at the front of the housing. You disconnect the wiring, remove the bolts, tip the housing down enough to clear the cabinet and slide it out. The motor is usually removed by loosening the bolt that holds the fan to the motor shaft, then loosening the clamp that holds the motor to the struts. Take your old motor and capacitor with you to your local appliance parts supply house for an exact replacement.
If you do replace the motor and capacitor, use tie wraps to secure the wiring to the struts that center and hold the motor in. This keeps the wiring tidy and keeps it from moving around, possibly causing the wiring to short.
Please let me know if I can help further.
Best regards, --W/D--

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