Question about Maytag MZD2752G Side by Side Refrigerator
I was wondering if anyone out there has repaired this problem. My fresh strawberries are freezing on the refrigerator side even though we have it on the lowest setting (hot) and the milk now comes in a convenient frosty! My freezer side has done the same and has ice built up on the bottom so that I cannot pull out the basket. We have defrosted the freezer side and it was refrozen by the next day. We are DIY ers and would appreciate any input.
There is 2 things you can replaced to rectify this problem .
1 is the defrost timer and the next is the thermostat.
On the thermostat is a metal rod that is connected to a vent so when you adjust it it open or closes the vent .Just make sure that is not loose because if it's loose even though you turn thermostat down the vent would be wide open allowing freezing air to get into refrigerator.
Posted on Jun 03, 2017
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: refrigerator won't get cold
You likely have a defrost cycle failure. The freezer's cooling coils need to be frosty and cold so the air that the fan pulls over them can cool the fridge section. If the defrost cycle fails, the coils freeze up to a block of ice and air flow suffers (fridge is about 55 degrees F). The freezer stays cold only because there's a block of ice in there now... sometimes that cold "sinks" to the bottom and only the food at the bottom stays frozen (and can even freeze food at the bottom of the fridge compartment while the rest is warm). To be sure, you'll need to take the rear interior panel off the freezer back wall and check the coils to see if they are frozen solid. If they are then there's a defrost cycle failure. If they are showing a nice white frosty pattern evenly all over the coils then that's normal and maybe the evap fan (right above the coils) is not blowing air up properly or is not working at all. That fan should run if the compressor is running, etc. the only time it doesn't run is during an actual defrost cycle. Once you find out what condition the coils are in it should be simple to direct you further on the problem.
Posted on Jan 06, 2007
Same issue with my 6 yr old Maytag side-by-side model #MSD2756GEW. Turned out it was caused by a faulty circuit board. This circuit board is located in the upper right fridge section. Apparently these boards are sensitive to power surges (which we have here in central Texas from time to time.) When the circuit board is fried, it makes a noise like a fan blade malfunctioning and it stops the auto defrost feature in the freezer from working. So the freezer ices up at the back, and the ice prevents the cold air from reaching the fridge section.
Our circuit board (which we thought was a fan) made ominous noises for a few months. (The noise would last only a minute or so and stop shortly after we opened a door). Eventually we noticed that the fridge wasn't as cold and the freezer had snow in it. Finally the board stopped making noise and about a week or so afterward we noticed that the milk had spoiled and the fridge wasn't very cold. The food in the freezer side pretty solidly frozen, thankfully.
In addition to replacing the circuit board, the fridge had to be de-iced or it would not work properly. I put it all frozen into a large camping cooler where it stayed for several hours. I opened the freezer doors and put table fan and pointed a hobby light which gets quite hot, at the back of the freezer. Within 3 hours, the ice had melted significantly so I could see through the grate at the back of the freezer. This really great technician named Tracy, made a special trip to the parts store to get the circuit board and came back within a couple hours, bringing with him a steamer. He removed the back panel inside the freezer section (the coils are behind there) and used the steamer to melt the rest of the ice before he left.
Tracey, who works for a local appliance repair company, told me that about 4 years ago, Maytag started making their fridges with built-in surge protection, so the circuit boards apparently don't get fried on the newer models as they do on my 6 yr old model. He recommended that we put plug the fridge into a heavy-duty surge protector - which we are definitely going to do.
Posted on Mar 18, 2008
I'm dealing with the same problem right now with the same refrigerator. The cold water tank (for the front dispenser) has a hole in it that leaks every time someone dispenses water from the front door. You will find the water tank behind the top slide-out drawer in the fridge. The leaked water flows down one of the water tubes through a hole in the bottom of the fridge and onto the floor. I'll bet you have the same problem. Good Luck.
Posted on Nov 17, 2008
It's not cool
If the refrigerator isn't cool, you need to answer some questions, then see if the compressor is running.
First, answer these questions:
The compressor is a football-sized case with no apparent moving parts. It's on the outside of the refrigerator at the back near the bottom. If it is humming or making a continuous noise and your refrigerator is still not cooling, there may be a more serious problem with one or more of several different components, we recommend contacting a qualified appliance repair technician for further help.
If the compressor is not running but you do have power to the refrigerator, there may be a problem with one or more of these:
Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils or a condenser that is clogged with dust, lint, and dirt.
Evaporator coils Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.
The refrigerator is supposed to self-defrost approximately four times in every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.
Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the problem is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have several towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan to overflow). This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually." When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the refrigerator then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of three components in the self-defrosting system:
Condenser Self-defrosting refrigerators all have a set of coils and a cooling fan, usually under the refrigerator, that need to be cleaned regularly. If these coils get coated with dust, dirt or lint, the refrigerator may not cool properly. The coils may appear to be a thin, black, wide radiator-like device behind the lower kick-panel. To clean them, disconnect the refrigerator from the power source, use a refrigerator condenser brush (see the Appliance Accessories section) and your vacuum cleaner to clean the coils of any lint, pet hair, etc. You may not be able to get to all of the condenser from the front, it may be necessary to clean the remainder of the condenser from the rear of the refrigerator. I feel heat/warmth on the front edge of my refrigerator....why?
Older refrigerators had electric heaters on the edges of the refrigerator cabinet to help prevent moisture from building up, especially in the hot/hazy weather in the summer time. These electric heaters usually had a switch where you could turn them on or off...had words like..."switch here to prevent moisture"...switch here in damp weather".... in the picture it is in the top left of the control assembly.
Then along came the energy crunch. The manufactures stopped using the electric heaters and started running a pass of the hot condenser tubing on the edges of the cabinet where the electric heaters use to be. This is often called ayoder loop tube SxS version and the yoder loop tube Top freezer version. This has now replaced the electric heaters. If you feel heat/hot around the door opening of your refrigerator you should....
- clean the condenser coils as a dirty condenser can make the tubing hotter than normal
- check/clean & replace if necessary the condenser cooling fan ( # F ) motor, if the condenser fan motor is slow or has quit the yoder loop pass will get very warm/hot to the touch
- If the condenser coils are clean and the condenser fan motor is running ok, check the fresh food and freezer section temperatures...if the refrigerator is not operating well and the temps inside are warming up, you could feel more heat/warmth than normal
Posted on Apr 03, 2009
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