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RCA MOD # F19424, Chassis 203U5, Picture is not sharp. Have adjusted Sharpness and contrast sliders up and down with still a blury picture. Can you help. What are the two controls on the back marked "F" and "S"?

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The F is for focus and the S for screen. You should be able to adjust the F to resolve the problem.

Dan

Posted on Oct 09, 2008

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Not a clear picture


CRT projection televisions need periodic maintenance to maintain a clear picture. Typically, to maintain a sharp picture, they require cleaning and alignment every two or three years. If the television is being used in an environment where there is cigarette smoke or other smoke sources, the optics inside the television can become dirty and cause the picture to blur. Additionally, CRT focus and alignment wander over time, or physical CRT alignment can be knocked out if the set is bumped or dropped. All RCA CRT projection televisions have an "alignment" or "convergence" adjustment in their adjustment menus, which are fairly simple to use. The convergence feature is usually accessible from the main menu of the television. Check your User's Manual for the procedure to touch-up the convergence adjustment and see if you are able to achieve a sharper picture. If the optics in your set have not been cleaned for several years, or if it is in a smoky environment, the picture will be blurry and usually a brownish color, In any case, since the set is several years old at this point, it's likely due for a cleaning. This is best done by a technician, and mostly involves physical cleaning of internal lenses, the refractor mirror on the back of the chassis, and the back of the opaque display screen. An adjustment of CRT bias controls and individual CRT focus adjustments will bring further improvement in the image sharpness and clarity.

Jul 08, 2011 | RCA Projection Televisions

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Philips 60PW9383 picture faded. Try to adjust, sharpness, contrast & brightness are all almost all of the way up, but the picture just looks weak & washed out.


Thats the classis sign that the CRT coolant needs replacement to restore the picture quality. You can get the Phillips CRT coolant kit from www.tvrepairworld.com which contains the coolant for the three CRTs plus the CD with instructions.

Jun 19, 2010 | Philips 60PW9383 60" Rear Projection...

2 Answers

In the past few day i've noticed the picture is


BRIGHTNESS. Your owner's manual probably says that the brightness setting is used to control "brightness" or "picture intensity" or something other fuzzy non-descript term. The truth is that brightness is used to set the BLACK level in the picture.
On most TVs and projectors in use today, brightness is set too high. That's because people think "a bright picture is good, so I will set it as bright as I can get." Well, that's nice in theory, but entirely wrong in practice. Setting the brightness level too high makes a black tuxedo look gray rather than black. It muddies up the shadow areas, and reduces the overall snap and crispness that the picture would have if properly calibrated.
To find the right setting for brightness, go to the image in your movie that has textured blacks and hopefully some shadow/low light areas in which there is detail. Then freeze on that frame. As you move the brightness control down, the intensity of the blacks will increase, and shadows will get darker. As you move the control all the way to zero, you will (hopefully) see that the low light shadow areas will also go to solid black and lose their detail.
The optimum setting for brightness is achieved at just the point where true black objects appear as black as your system will make them while retaining as much visible detail in the shadow areas. Above this point the blacks appear to go grayer. Below this point you lose detail in the shadows. On many video systems, this optimum point is toward the lower end of the brightness scale. But find the point that looks correct to you regardless of where it is on the scale.
CONTRAST. The contrast control is similarly confusing. It is also often set too high on the theory that contrast is good, and therefore we might as well get the most we can out of our set by turning it all the way up. In fact, the contrast setting is used to control the intensity of the brightest highlights in the picture, so it is (oddly enough) the opposite of brightness control.
First, find your test scene in which you find textured whites in bright light, and freeze that frame. You are looking for the brightest elements in the picture in which you want to retain visible detail.
Let's assume you have a whitewashed fence in sunlight. If you start with the contrast set low, the fence will appear light gray rather than white. As you move the contrast control up, the fence will get whiter. Eventually details in the texture of the fence will begin to disappear.
If you continue to push contrast past the optimum point, the wood-grain texture of the fence will go solid white and all visible detail will be obliterated. Push contrast up even a little further, and our fenceposts might actually appear to expand very slightly due to a glow around the edges. This phenomenon, called "blooming" is a definite sign that your contrast setting is overcooking the image (and maybe your picture tube as well—don't ever leave the contrast control set this high!!!)
Find the point at which whites look white while retaining as much texture detail as possible. This is your optimum contrast setting. On most video systems, this setting is toward the higher end of the scale, but it can be anywhere. Find the point that looks correct to you. (By the way, unlike TV's, digital projectors will not bloom)
Now…note the following: brightness and contrast can be to some degree interactive. Your new contrast setting may have affected your brightness. So return to the brightness scene and verify that your blacks are still black, and you still have maximum detail in the shadows. Adjust it if necessary, then return and adjust the contrast setting once again if necessary. (You can see that this is much easier if the black and white elements you are testing all appear in the same image!)
COLOR. The color control on your set determines the level of color intensity in the image. One of the most common errors people make in calibrating their video systems is overdriving the color. That's what makes Larry King look reddish-orange on the TV at the gym. Overdriving color is common because once again, people naturally think, "I want to get as much color as I can out of this color TV, so I will crank it up some to make sure I get the most out of it!" No. Bad mistake.
If you move the color setting down to zero you will notice that your picture will turn into a black and white image. The optimum setting for color is achieved by increasing the setting just to the point where colors look natural and not a bit more! Flesh tones should look natural and without any hint of an unnatural glow. Grass should look naturally green rather than screaming spray-paint green.
When adjusting color, make sure that your test image has relatively unsaturated colors. Flesh tones or natural landscapes are ideal. It is impossible to set color properly if you are using a brilliant red Ferrari as your test subject.
On the large majority of video systems, the optimum setting for color is somewhere near the middle of the scale. However, trust your eyes for the optimum setting and think "what looks like the most natural, accurate reproduction of reality?" Any overdriving of color will make the image look artificial.
TINT or HUE. The tint control adjusts color balance rather than color intensity. It is an easy control to set properly, but for some reason many people don't get it right. When flesh tones look either too green or too magenta, a phenomenon you see with amazing frequency, it is because the tint control is not set properly.
Find a human face and freeze-frame it. (In choosing your test subject, note that lighter skin tones will show errors in tint more readily than darker skin tones). As you move the tint control to one end of the spectrum, the face turns green; as you move it to the other extreme, the face turns magenta (red+blue).
The correct setting for tint is the point near the middle of the scale at which you can detect no hint of either green or magenta. It is the most neutral point between the two extremes. The flesh tone looks the most natural at this point.
SHARPNESS or DETAIL. The final setting is sharpness or detail. Now, pray tell, who in their right mind wouldn't want the sharpest, most detailed picture they could get? And since there is a control that lets you turn it up, why not turn it up? That's what many folks do, and of course it's exactly the wrong thing to do.
The sharpness control adds processed information to the picture that is NOT part of the original video signal. It adds artificially highlighted edges, and makes the picture look less natural than it otherwise would. This is most evident along the continuous edge of a dark object against a middle-toned background. When sharpness is overdriven the dark edge will be outlined by a white ringing effect that increases contrast just along the edge of your dark object. That edge "highlighting" effect is created by the sharpness control. It is an artificial manipulation of the image. It wasn't in the original scene, and it shouldn't be on your screen either.
On most televisions, the optimum setting for sharpness is zero. On many digital projectors, the optimum setting is either in the low or middle part of the scale. Picture tube televisions and digital projectors behave differently in this regard; on a digital projector it is often possible to fuzz the image by setting sharpness too low.
Now look at your picture with the sharpness turned down or off depending on what works best on your system. You will see a smoother, more natural image. It might take some getting used to, since you may be accustomed to viewing video with all the artificial edge enhancements that create the illusion of added sharpness.
However, when the interference and noise from the artificial sharpness enhancer is removed, you are seeing the most genuine reproduction of the video signal that your projector or TV is capable of. And if you view it for a while, you will gain an appreciation for just how smooth, natural, and satisfying the picture can really look.

Dec 12, 2009 | Sony Grand WEGA KDF-55XS955 55" Rear...

2 Answers

Color wheel


The motor is nothing more than a harddrive motor, not sure that was the right solution but.... I would suggest that your chassis is not in the right location. Verify that the chasis is centered on the mounting bosses. The screws might be a good clue. Good luck.

Jul 05, 2009 | RCA HD61LPW42 61" Rear Projection HDTV

2 Answers

How do I adjust the HD quality for a crisper picture? I have tried Magic Focus, but need to know where the sharpness or contrast can be tweeked .


The magic focus function is to electronically align the red, green and blue beams. So all it can cure is colored ghosts. The contrast, brightness and sharpness adjustments are in the customer menu settings. With the remote just push menu and select video or picture adjustments. Those adjustments are in there.

Jun 11, 2009 | Hitachi 57F500 57" Rear Projection...

1 Answer

The picture seems to be blurry or out of focus


thats how mine is. I don`t know who to ask how to fix it.

Jan 26, 2009 | Hitachi 50UX58K 50" Rear Projection...

1 Answer

JUST BOUGHT LG42LF66 FULL HD 1080P WOULD LIKE 2 KNOW BEST XD ENGINE SETTINGS AND COLOR,BRIGHTNESS,CONTRASR AND SHARPNESS SETTINGS THANKS J.SINGH


set my one like this:
picture mode=User1, contrast=60, Brightness=60, colour=30, sharpness=100, tint=standard setting.
colour temp.=cool, XD: contrast=off, colour=off, xdnr=high, mpeg nr=15.
Used gold plated scart for dvd & sky, picture looks pretty good, have not tried hd yet. Initial settings when first switched on were **** but with some tweaking have got good results.You probably have it set up pretty good now but just got mine & thought I would post this anyway.

Apr 23, 2008 | LG Projection Televisions

1 Answer

Toshiba 53" Dull Screen. No brightness and Contrast.


I would guess the tubes are going...I would still have serviceman check it out

Oct 20, 2007 | Toshiba 53H71 53 in. Rear Projection...

1 Answer

Sharpness


as for the sharpness if the picture has no adjustment and is maximum sharpness you cannot improve it.

Oct 17, 2007 | Mitsubishi WD-52327 52" Rear Projection...

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