Fridge is an LG GRS592GT 476 lt fridge freezer, frost free. We noticed that the milk was not very cold the other day, the LED temperature control lights were all lit up to the Max setting but the first dot light was not lit. Pressing the pad to change it did not work. The freezer is ok, although the we did have that start to defrost due to the plug being knocked slightly. Freezer is ok now, but fridge is playing up. If we switch off the power supply at the plug and then switch it back on the LED resets itself back to normal and the fridge works, but somehow it goes off again. Dont know how long it goes before it switches off as am out a lot. Any ideas?????
SOURCE: Fridge warm, freezer is cold
First off all i type so fast that my spelling is junk! so bear with me. now most tec's will recomend that you defrost the unit. uhh uhhh . the fact of the mater is you have air in the lines they hope that the air due to defrost will settle to the bottom, well we both know that air always goes where! lol to the top. lol. this is crazy but this is somthing they dont want you to know . see when you take the unit in to get repiared they (a corse when you leave) will flipp the unit up side down fore about 30 min to get those air molicles to te top . then quickly flipping it back up plugging it in just to get the compresser to kick in thuss leving the air at the bottom . doing this properly and susksefly will fix the problem. see when this unit was made was upside down. lol. you dident know this right. well every 100 unit is tested . lol they have to flip it up right when it passes the test. so what do they do . flip it back down. lol . before it leaves the back door its flipped back up agin.lol . to make a long story short you have one of those 100 units lol. its ok i just armed you with the key to the lock.
SOURCE: Fridge is warm, freezer works.
Sounds like a defrost problem. Check to see if
there is any frost buildup in the back wall of the freezer. If so, it is not
defrosting as it should.
If you don’t know what these are then unplug the machine and let the ice
melt in the freezer overnight with the door open. Then try it the next day, if
is cooling fine then you need to have a service person replace one of the above
items.
SOURCE: Kenmore Elite 596755 - Freezer warm, Ice Melted, then...
A refrigerator or freezer that is cooling, but cooling poorly, may have a problem in one of several areas.
Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils or a condenser that is clogged with dust, lint, and dirt.
You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer.
Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.
Watch its operation more closely to see if any same symptom.
SOURCE: Kenmore bottom freezer 73504. All freezer items fully defrosted.
I went to local.google.com to find fridge repair person nearby. They were able to come out the same day and solve the problem. The starter kit for the compressor was replaced. Sears couldn't make it until the following Monday when I called them on a Wednesday. I highly recommend shopping local and keeping the home town economy moving.
SOURCE: Fridge not cool enough but frosty at the back
Since you are getting frost in you frost free refrigerator, tell me that the defrost circuit has a problem. It is made of a defrost timer/module, defrost heater and defrost thermostat. What should happen is that the defrost timer should periodically turn off the compressor for about 30 minutes and turn power to the defrost heater via the thermostat. The heater is attached to the evaporator coil and melts any frost build up on those coils.
It sounds like the defrost circuit has not been working for a while because the ice build up is not allowing the air to circulate around the coils to cool the refrigerator. The typical failures to the defrost circuit are the defrost timer motor fails to advance, or the defrost heater burns out. Hope this helps you.
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We noticed that the milk was not very cold the other day, the LED temperature control lights were all lit up to the Max setting but the first dot light was not lit. Pressing the pad to change it did not work. The freezer is ok, although the we did have that start to defrost due to the plug being knocked slightly. Freezer is ok now, but fridge is playing up. If we switch off the power supply at the plug and then switch it back on the LED resets itself back to normal and the fridge works, but somehow it goes off again. Dont know how long it goes before it switches off as am out a lot. Any ideas?????
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