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Its conversely sometimes possible if you was asking about a wood saw with a steel saw blade but i cannot advice that in both application its not safe because not only of the difference of power but most it is the much higher RPM by diameter, just beware always on the max rpm you can read on your saw blades!!, it can give strange accidents with objects it can grab and swinging outbroken parts away.
Ever wish you could make that perfect cut the first time with your miter saw or table saw ? Simple if you put a strip of wide blue tape on base of saw and cut the tape with your saw ! Now you know where the blade will cut, now mark your wood, move the wood and the pencil mark to edge of tape that you just cut and cut it. That simple and easy to calibrate verses the red lasers that come on some saws that to me never work right to begin with. Valley2118
Sounds as if the blade is dull. Or perhaps bent. A dull or bent blade blade will 'grab' the wood, rather than cut it, resulting in binding, or kickbacks.
Solution; replace the blade with a fine-toothed, good quality blade. If the blade is new, then check that the blade is bolted tight on the arbor. If the blade is loose, it can result in kickbacks.
Also, check that all the bolts/fasteners/locking mechanisms on the saw are tight, and in good working order. Sometimes a tool new out-of-the-box will have loose screws/nuts/bolts that need to be tightened up.
Also, when cutting, use a smooth, slow, motion, being sure to give the saw the time it needs to make the cut.
The extra brushes would likely be for the motor, and not used until the saw has LOTS of miles on it.
The allen usually backs off a clamp that holds the blade. In terms of metal and wood, the blade itself determines that. HOWEVER, Consider using and possibly distroying a WOOD blade. If there is metal in the wall, you usually do NOT want to cut that...!! I suggest cutting the drywall side first and see that there is nothing in the wall that you do not want to cut!!
The metal blade can cut wood, no worries.
you should be able to order one from sears. another place to look is ebay. the round plastic thing is to mark with pencil the cut of the blade. put in your sliding miter Gage set at 90 deg. put a piece of wood on it, push forward and cut the wood then slide back and mark the wood position on the plastic. that's the point where your blade cuts
Band saws pull to one side on straight cuts, it's a function of the blade torque. My 14" saw pulls to the right. There's nothing you can do to stop this, you have to be aware of it so you account for it on free cuts and know to put your fence on that side so the wood pulls into the fence instead of away from it. Squaring the blade to the table is easier. Do not go by the tilt angle guide. First make absoutely sure all of your blade guides and bearings are properly alligned so they aren't pushing the blade out of line. Use a square to get it close then: using a 4" x 4" block of wood, make a light cut in the wood only deep enough to mark the wood from top to bottom. Turn the block over 180 and try to make a cut in the previous cut mark. If the cuts line up you're there. If you get a V or X you have to make adjustments to the table making sure you tighten the trunion locks tight. I had one of these, it's not a high end saw so don't expect a lot from it.
This could have many causes...depending on the model of saw, the wood being cut, the blade you're using, etc. etc.
Check that the blade is correctly installed, up to tension, and sharp. Make sure the wheels run smoothly on their on, and under power. Check the horsepower of the motor, and make sure to keep the feed rate down within the motor's capacity. Finally, don't twist the work being cut to a smaller radius than the size blade will handle, or you will bind the blade in the cut.
If you are cutting wood with pitch or grain that is likely to be under tension, perhaps you need to insert a wedge into the cut to prevent the work from pinching the blade as it continues the cut.
I hope that leads to a solution. Sometimes all you can do is feed slowly and be patient...
Use a pencil and straight edge to mark the cutting line on the wood. Place the wood on the saw table and line the mark up with the saw. Place the mark on the right side of the blade to ensure proper cutting. Plug the saw in and put on your safety goggles. Support the wood on the work surface with your left hand, placing it far from the saw blade. Place your right hand on the handle, and push the trigger to start the saw. Move the saw blade down onto the wood. Put constant pressure on the handle to slowly move the blade through the wood. Release the trigger and raise the blade once the cut is complete. Make diagonal cuts in the same manner, by marking the wood and lining the mark up just to the right of the saw blade. Continue as you would for a straight cut. Remove the wood from the saw. Unplug the chop saw and dust the sawdust off. Remove the dust bag from the back and empty it. Vacuum any remaining dust off of the saw.