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Ricoh KR10 Super

I recently picked up a Ricoh KR10 Super. The problem is minor. When I put a flash unit on the hot shoe, the shoe fell out. Apparently, the hot shoe was glued back on and the wire was not soldered back on. Otherwise, the camera is fully functional. Where can I get a top cover to replace this one?

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Try a camera shop that still repairs obsolete camera's, if you have all the parts it can be fixed or replaced ( top cover ) with a good used one . If your KR10 has a flash socket on the front of the camera buy a flash bar and use that. Be sure the loose wire from the hot shoe is not touching anything.

Posted on Dec 07, 2008

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1 Answer

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Some pentax digitals(most) will accept k mount lenses. Ricoh differed from the Pentax standard in one slight -- but important -- way. They used a locking pin (called the "Ricoh pin") that just happens to fall at exactly the same place as the auto-focus socket on Pentax auto-focus cameras. (That include Pentax film and digital SLRs with auto focus.) If you put your Ricoh lens on the AF Pentax, you may find that the Ricoh pin will get stuck in the AF hole and you can't get them back apart. The fix is simple, if you are even a little bit handy and have a jewellers' screwdriver. You can remove the pin from the Ricoh lens, and then safely use it on your Pentax cameras. The lack of a pin doesn't seem to adversely affect either the lens or the camera.

For more details, see here:

http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1036&message=19214685

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This is for you camera experts!!! I have an Olympus camera that belonged to my father. The only numbers on it are OM-1n. it is pre digital. I would like to find out more about this camera and possibly...


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I have this Electro GSN one. When I mounted a normal flash, the flash doesn't function. What is the solution? Does it need a special flash which differently? Thanks for your helps. Reap


You can use any flash that has one contact at the shoe.
Try using the PC flash cord to the flash socket on the camera body and see if the flash fires. If you see flash with pc flash cord and not with the accessory shoe, try cleaning the flash contacts at the hot shoe.
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for what its worth here is a nice catalog in PDF .. it shows all parts and an exploded view and dissassembly .for your camera

www.micro-tools.net/pdf/Canon/SS%20105%20ZOOM%20-%20DATE.pdf

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You can repair this by removing the camera top plate and re-fixing the hot shoe from beneath, but it's not without risk to your camera.

The MTL 50 has more electronics than the MTL-5 which it was based upon, and it's possible to damage them when you remove the top plate of the camera. If they are damaged they're still basic and usually easy to fix if you're familiar with basic electronics. Or if damaged you could revert to using a handheld light meter which you can pick up very cheaply as the electronics are only for metering purposes.

If you're not confident of the repair, then don't attempt it. You can get a separate flash bracket very cheaply which screws into the tripod hole and the flash can then connect to the pc socket on the lower right hand side of the lens mount as viewed from the front. This will also give better results as the flash is mounted off-axis just like professional photographers do. The flash bracket is not only the most conservative option, but it's the best one simply from a photo-taking perspective. Most of the kind of flash guns which fit your camera have a pc socket for off-camera use and usually come with a short lead for the job. If your flash gun doesn't have this facility then most used camera shops have loads of perfectly functional but utterly worthless basic units in the trash. (If you're in the UK I'll even send you one for just the postage costs, just add a comment to let me know and I'll be in touch).

If you want to go ahead you'll need to start by removing the film winding lever. The black disc on top of the lever unscrews with a reverse clockwise thread. Sometimes it will undo simply by pressing your thumb down on it and twisting clockwise whilst holding the lever from moving, but more often you'll need to press a pencil eraser firmly on to it and twist clockwise. Once the screw is off the lever should lift away.

Next, you need to remove the film rewind crank. Under the rewind lever is a screw and again this usually has to be turned clockwise to undo it. After removing the screw, the rewind crank lifts off.

Next, remove the two securing screws on the front of the top-plate and the two at the rear. It's been a while since I've done this so you might find there's also a screw at each end, they all undo anticlockwise as normal. Set the shutter speed dial and film speed to a convenient position which you're confident of being able to return it to, you may also want to put a bit of tape across the top to hold it where you've set it. The top of the camera should now come off, but be careful: there will be wires going up to the underside of the hotshoe and you don't want to strain or break them. You should be able to see how the hotshoe fixes to the camera and effect a repair. Try not to disturb anything else, but if you notice any gooey black foam then you need to decide whether to remove it. If you leave it then it's corrosive and will eventually damage at least the black paint on the pentaprism and spoil your viewfinder image, but if you remove it without knowing what you're doing then you'll damage your camera. If in doubt, leave it. Film SLR's and lenses are now ten a penny and folks are even giving them away so you may choose to use your camera until it breaks and then get another for peanuts.

Once you've completed your repair, reassembly is in the reverse order. Just be careful not to overtightebn the screws and you may want to apply a little liquid thread lock to them after cleaning the threads.

I hope this has helped and given you a few options, if so please return the favour by rating my answer.


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