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One thing to check is the power where it plugs in to the wall. Remove plug and look at male blades on plug. See if any are discolored or burnt looking. If any are replace the cord on stove and have the plug in wall replaced too. If they are discolored or burnt you must replace both parts. You also try to jiggle plug around while it's plugged in to see if that has any effect.
If everything seems ok at outlet, UNPLUG UNIT and remove cover over terminals where line cord connects to stove. Check for burnt terminals ans burnt wires. Also make sure screws are tight.
I just had the top completely off of our Magic Chief, which I love and refuse to part with, to fix a problem with one of the burner switches. I believe if you pry up gently in the crack in front with a blade, i.e. small pry bar or screwdriver, being very careful to not chip the paint, the top will snap loose from the two prongs that hold it in place. Then if you disconnect the cluster of wires going to the burners, which is very easy to do, (they just plug together) and remove one screw holding the ground wire toward the back, you can lift off the whole top and get to all of the good stuff. I find the quality of our old Magic Chief Chateau to be of exceptional quality, much better than I see today and I'm pleased that our burner problem was just loose screws. Good luck.
Replacing the ignitor is not difficult or dangerous. To get at it, you will first take out the racks. Then undo the box-like cover inside the bottom of the oven; the screws face front. Underneath that is a wing-shaped cover, held in place with wingnuts. Remove it.
The pipe that the gas comes out of heads straight back; the ignitor is just to the left. You'll be able to see the wires going out the back of the oven. Remove the plates that hold the tube/ignitor combination.
Once the pipe is free, then get your head out of the oven and pull out the oven so you can see, and get at, the back. On the lower left is a cover, about 12 x 15 or so, held in place by four screws. Remove it.
At this point you can see where the ignitor connects to the orange wires (at least mine are orange) with a plastic connection. Undo that connection.
Viola! You have removed the ignitor! Now, before you forget, make a diagram of everything you did. Put the screws in separate plastic baggies, with paper number tabs that correspond to your drawing. This will greatly help in putting everything back together.
unplug range ..remove the back cover plate check all wires all connections ..their must be a burnt /broken /dissconnected wire ..check where the wires connect to the bake an broil element ..and the bake broil switch..if all looks good .then the bake broil switch burnt out when element blew out..plus is the breaker tripped in the box ..it prob. tripped when the element blew out..let me know..good luck
The F10 indicates that the electronic oven control board senses a runaway temperature condition in the oven through the oven sensor circuit. This can be caused by a faulty oven temperature sensor probe or a failed electronic control board. Oven temperature is detected by the control board as it monitors the resistance through the oven temperature sensor circuit. You could have a failed oven temperature sensor, a wiring harness failure, an open thermal switch or a failed electronic oven control board that would cause this problem. The first component to check would normally be the oven temperature sensor probe. If you have a volt/ohm meter, you can shut off the breaker for the range and remove the screws that mount this sensor to the back wall of the oven. Carefully pull the wire harness into the oven cavity until you get to the wire harness disconnect plug. You should have enough slack to pull it this far into the oven. Disconnect the sensor but do not let the wire harness retract back through the back wall of the oven or it will be hard to reconnect. Measure the resistance of the oven temperature sensor with your volt/ohm meter. At room temperature, the resistance should measure around 1100 ohms. The resistance chart is shown in the image below.
If the resistance is above 2200 ohms at room temperature, then the sensor probe is causing the F10 error code and will need to be replaced.
You can order a new sensor probe from the Sears PartsDirect website. The part number for the sensor is 316217002.
If the resistance is normal, then one of the other causes mentioned above is producing your F10 code. You would need to access the electronic oven control board (Timer) in the console and check the resistance at the sensor circuit connection to the control board as the next step in troubleshooting this problem.
Hi, your spark module,for ignitor could be damage, sometimes they burnt out, or could be broken wires, or corrosion at electrical connection, (terminal) , normally it's spark module, that's faulty or burnt out. let mechanic check. or remove range plug from receptacle, and lift top of range, check all electrical wiring, check all connection for rust (corrosion) clean and retry range, if it didn't work, call mechanic to check spark module. good luck.
when you see burnt isulation, that normally indicates that you had excessive current thru the wire above its normal rating and it got hot enough to melt the insulating jacket. During storms, it is not unusual for a lightning strike to cause a power surge on your incoming power and there are numerous reports of damage to electrical systems from this event. The fact that you covered it with electrical tape doesn't necessarily mean that the conductor is good,..It could be open ( meaning: the wire is broken someplace) and not able to pass current thru it. If you feel confident in measuring the voltage at that termination point with a suitable voltmeter, that would tell you if your pwoer feed is OK.. Of course, if you aren't well versed in th eproper technique for measuringthese kinds of things safely, you might want to get an electrician.. There is the chance that your control circuit got damaged from the power outage.. The fact that other things work suggests that you have at least one phase of the 220VAC feed operational. Hope this helps and if you do decide to diagnose this further, please be careful..
Starfish, remove the oven racks, in back there will be two chrome screws, remove them. Lift the lower oven panel out by pulling up from the rear. Remove the screws holding the flame spreader and remove the flame spreader. Now you will see the burner and igniter attached to it. There are 2 quarter inch hex screws holding the ignitor on. GE likes to put them on an angle where you cant get at them. If you have trouble you can remove the bottom drawer and remove the screws securing the burner to the back wall. There should be one in the front too. The burner will now lift up and you can get at the screws. The new ignitor should come with ceramic wire nuts. Just cut the old igniter, strip the ends of the wires going to it and wire nut the new one on. Reverse the rest of the steps. Here's a little trouble shooting schem. Catriver...post back.