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Craftsman Rototiller How do I drain the gear oil from the tine drive mechanism and what weight oil should I replace it with? Mod. # 247.298610B127C

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  • stevef-16 Oct 18, 2008

    IT'S A FRONT TINE TILLER.

  • fcass716 Jan 02, 2009

    i need to chang the oil. not the gear oil. ther is no plug.on this tiller.

  • tmartinell Feb 20, 2009

    enginedoc - any idea how often, if at all, the internal drive chain should be re-greased? my tiller is probably close to a '78 or '80. It's a Craftsman 6 HP Counter Rotating Tine rototiller. There has been quite a bit of old "caked up" grease that has made it's way out of the enclosed housing and I was wondering whether or not I should be concerned with regreasing the chain to prolong the life of the tiller.

  • bodag24 Apr 05, 2009

    My neighbor has a Craftsman 6.5HP 17-Inch Rear Tine Tiller Model Number 917.293480 that he believes is about 5 years old. I used it last fall to put in a winter garden for him and this last month have used it a number of times in preparation for the spring garden. Today the tines stopped turning and I figured the drive belt had broken. In pulling off the cover, the main transmission drive pulley fell out. The drive shaft comming out of the transmission had actually worn in half and broke right where it comes out to the side of the transmission. I checked with Sears and they charge $104 just to look at it and give me a diagosis and estimate on the repair cost. I have good mechanical skills and thinking about spliting the transmission and doing the repair myself, but figured I would pick your brain a little since you have done it. How difficult is it to put the transmission back together? Besides the chain length and plenty of lubricant, is there anything else that I need to be aware of? The price on the main drive gear/shaft is $32 from Sears. Any help advice would be greatly appreciated... bailey_mark_p@hotmail.com

  • twatk102060 May 02, 2009

    looking for instructions to install a transmission for 3 HP 917-298232

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I have the same unit, although newer, and just recently, the carburetor got gummed up, and I'm waiting on a rebuild kit. Well, I've been noticing the gear shift isn't as smooth as it could be, and since I've been curious about the drive mechanism, I decided today to split the case and see what the guts look like. Here's what I found. The input shaft is splined, and has a floating gear that is moved along the length of the shaft by a lever attached to the gear indicator outside the case. As the gear lever is moved, this gear engages the other larger gears for reverse, forward, and till. Both the tines and the wheels are chain driven, the tines by a beefy 60 series chain, and the wheels by a smaller 30 or 35 series. There is NO oil. The housing is filled with grease, or rather, should be. Not long after I bought my machine new, I took it for a service to my favorite power equipment place, where we have shopped for over 30 years. They told me they greased up the housing real good, since it sounded 'dry'. Today I noticed what they did. The factory grease was black, while our shop, A-1, uses a premium red bearing lube that all the farmers in our area use for their machines. We swear by it. Anyway, A-1 added probably at least half a tube to the case, and judging by what I saw today, it needed at least that, and probably more. Well, here is the big problem with the drive on this tiller. Chains. . . stretch. New ones stretch quite a bit, and if it stretches enough, the chain will ride over one of teeth on the sprocket and either break the tooth, or more likely, snap the chain. Considering that the entire machine needs to be stripped down to split the case, this design is problematic. A gear unit would be almost maintenance free. Before I put this thing together, I plan to shorten both chains at least half a link, and pack the housing with a good lube. There is a token zerc fitting on the upper part of the machine just above the input shaft. It simply pours grease into the inside of the housing.

Posted on Mar 18, 2009

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I do not know of your exact tiller model, but I dismantled a Sears Model 917.299850 (5 hp, counter rotating rear tines --- and built by Husky)

I found that it had NO way of adding lubricant, and the grease that was inside the chain case was a thick, heavy, black/grey grease that allowed the chain to cut a groove for the chain to run in, but DID NOT lubricate the tine chain.

While I had the case split open for repair, I changed the damage chain(s) and relubricated the case with a blended combination of yellow (NAPA) chassis grease mixed with about a 1-1/2 - 2 pints of 140w gear lube. This would allow the two lubricants to mix, but the greasy mess (kind of like thickened honey) would continue to fall back upon the chain for lubrication.

As for the oil filler on the case. You will have to install your own as you have the case split to change the oil / grease in the case. I drilled an area at the upper right portion of the chain case and installed a 3/8" grease zerk. I can add additional liquid, or liquid blended "grease/oil slurry" through the hole and then screw in the zerk. Something is better than nothing. They should have designed the machine with (protected) upper and lower oil drain locations.

I suggest that you look at your chain case, pick where you believe you may have the best exterior locations for such a filler plug, then reconfirm your ideas against what you see when you open the case for repairs. Install an upper plug where you see best. Good luck.

Dave in Alaska

Posted on Mar 09, 2009

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There is no oil - it is greased at the factory - i believe this is a rear tine tiller -i didnt look up the numbers

Posted on Oct 17, 2008

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