I just read your solution to a problem that I have been experiencing. I have contacted Averatec and they said that they could not fix the issue that I had to purchase a new power cord. Could you please direct me to the person that you spoke to that helped you fix your issue? I would really appreciate it.
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Did you check the battery on the motherboard? The battery should read 3.3 volts with a volt meter. If you don't have a meter you can try swapping the battery from another motherboard. Or have the battery checked at a Radio Shack store. Also if you still have the Seasonic try hooking it back uo temporally outside the case to check if it is a power supply issue. If the old power supply failed while being connected to this motherboard it could have damaged it. Thanks for using FixYa
The shutdown is less likely the switch, and more likely a system issue, e.g., the motherboard. This is especially the case is you've already replaced the power supply.
If the power supply doesn't detect a load on a certain power output (sorry, I forget offhand which particular output this is), it will shutdown.
That said, if the output mentioned above is connected to a defective motherboard, the system may act as you described. The intermittent nature of the problem probably indicates the motherboard is on its way to total failure.
At least that's how I've experienced it in the past.
You can check if the power supply is bad using a multitester.
Connect the power cord at the back of the power supply and plug it in an AC outlet. Measure the voltage out from the connector. Using the multitester (set it to DC range), insert the black probe to one of the black wire in the peripheral connector of the power supply while the red probe in the yellow wire. Reading should be +12VD. Now, transfer the red probe to the red wire, reading is +5VDC. Reading below this measurement is a clear indication of a bad power supply. Put some load in it, like connecting a hard drive or a cd rom drive.Try measuring the output voltage again. If voltage out dropped then it is Bad.
Hope this will help you understand. Thank you for using Fixya.
I THINK I REMEMBER reading that Antec had introduced a feature on some of their psu s where essentially the fan(s) were thermally controlled - if the psu was not working very hard it remained cool and the fan remained off but as the psu got warm with additional load it gradually increased fan speed. Perhaps this the issue you are seeing and nothing is wrong ?
PSU's are generally difficult to open and contain few accessible parts. some you can actually change the fan. I don't know about yours though.
Hello, you don't mention the model number, but there was an issue with the power connector mounted on the mother board of certain Dell laptops causing the type of problem you've got. Dell refused to address the issue until a group of users in the USA threatened a class action against the company, then Dell agreed to repair all affected laptops and extend the warranties. It's possible that yours is the same problem. Unfortunately, if you're NOT in the USA you wont get it remedied for free. As you don't state the model, I can only speculate that you're having the same problem, but if you google your model type, you may find some interesting reading. And perhaps you're not alone. Regards, nicam49
If the power supply has been burnt, individual electronic components likely failed due to a power surge or other issue, and you may have experienced a short within the unit. Unfortunately, due to advanced difficulty and low cost, power supplies generally are not repaired, they are replaced instead.
We would have to have the parts list, and specifications to know that. Maybe someone will have it, but it's not probable. The alternative thing to try is to get any numbers/letter off the diode itself, and the manufacturer, then try to look it up in an electronics parts guide, or hopefully online. Sometimes you have to unsolder the diode to get the markings, but since you sound like you're going to replace it anyway, you might as well see what you can see. You might try contacting Thermaltake to see if they would supply the information, but it would probably be fruitless to do so, since they usually opt for people to buy new units. Sirtech is the manufacturer, I read on one web blog, but I couldn't find any contact information for them. Good luck, hope this helps.
You check the power supply using multimeter. but before everything make sure the you are getting power from the power outlet.
Here is how you can check the power supply with multimeter
If the wall outlet and the power cord are good, make sure the connection at the motherboard is secure. Then you may have to face the fact that the power supply itself is bad. If you have a multimeter, you can test the powersupply output before purchasing a new one. Simply follow these steps:
Turn off the PC, but do not unplug it. Open the system unit. Set the multimeter to read DC volts in the next range higher than 12 volts. Locate a power connector similar to the hard drive (or CD-ROM drive connector that is unused) and turn on the PC.
You can also unplug a drive connector and use it. Turn on the PC and insert the BLACK probe into the power connector on one of the BLACK wires. Touch the RED probe to the YELLOW wire on the power connector.
The multimeter reading should be +12 volts. Now touch the RED probe to the RED wire and the reading should be +5 volts. If no readings or different readings occurred, you’ll have to replace the powersupply. If the readings were correct, you should check the P8 or P9 connectors at the motherboard. These connectors may also be named P4 and P5. To check these connectors, perform the following:
Insert the BLACK probe into P8 at one of the BLACK wires. Insert the RED probe into the P8 connector at the RED wire. The reading on the multimeter should be +5 volts.
Check the power going to the motherboard connections by inserting the RED probe into P8 at the YELLOW wire and you should get +12 volts. Leave the BLACK wire touching the BLACK wire at the P8 connector. Check the BLUE wire and the reading should be a -12 volts.
Now move the BLACK probe to the BLACK wire on the P9 connector. Test the WHITE wire by inserting the RED probe and the reading should be -5 volts. Check the RED wires on the P9 connector and you should get +5 volts on each red wire. You won’t get exactly 5 or 12 volts, but the readings will be very close, such as 5.02 volts.
If the Power Supply is a couple of volts off in either direction, such as when the RED wire should be reading -5 volts but it reads -8 volts, or if there are no readings, replace the powersupply.