Simplest way to find out is sit in your car and activate the central locking, wait about 30 seconds (circa time for alarm to arm) and then move about. If alarm is activated it will go off. Also, you should be able to see the sensors mounted inside, normal install has them mounted at the top of the pillar between windscreen drivers/passenger windows (although this is not always the case). In the engine compartment you should be able to see the alarm itself again normally (but not always) mounted on the body at the back (when you are looking from the front of the car).
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The three-flash, wait, three-flash sequence indicates that either the nuisance prevention circuitry or another fault has been registered by Zone 3 or the door sensor. Nuisance prevention circuity is automatically activated when there are several faulty activation codes sent to a sensor. In turn, the door sensor is bypassed by the alarm which keeps the system quiet. This only happens when a specific threshold is reached in specific activation codes that are sent from the door sensor to the alarm cpu.
It would seem inadvisable to disable the door sensor when it is receiving faults. It might indicate someone is trying to boost your car. However, it is not as inadvisable as you might think.
The faults that activate the nuisance circuity tend to be lower-level faults and not the major ones that might trip the door sensor such as someone trying to slip the door lock or someone who might smash a window. In those instances, even though the nuisance circuity was tripped, the alarm will still work and sound, if it receives major faults such as the attempted to slip the door lock or the windows is broken.
The nuisance circuitry is meant to prevent the alarm from activating for multiple impacts to the door such as those that might be called during a high wind or if pieces of wood were blown against the car during a high wind.
Check the connections at your battery and alternator. Make sure the battery posts are tight. Check the chassis ground connection for the battery. You failed to mention the reason for replacing the light assembly but, I would check the harnesses for damage and continuity.
I would start with checking the fuel flow at the filter. Twist open the bleed valve on the top of the filter while you are cranking the engine. If fuel is squirting out, then you are getting fuel past the filter. now you will check the injectors to ensure they are getting fuel. You will need a couple of wrenches to break open the line. You can start with the easies ones to access on the driver's side. Be sure you hold the injector tight while you break the line loose from the top. Just loosen it 1 or 2 turns. Crank the motor and see if you are getting fuel to the injector. If you are getting fuel to the injectors, then we have eliminated a fuel problem.
Are your glow plugs cycling correctly? Every time the 6.5 diesel prepares to start, the glow plugs will cycle. The first time the engine is turned on after it has completely cooled off, they will cycle for 10-20 sec depending on the air temp. That clicking sound bothers me like the relay switch for the glow plugs isn't working. How many miles on truck? Have the glow plugs been changed? Has the relay switched been replaced?
The last area to check will be the air intake system. Pull the air filter housing open and remove the filter. Ensure it is clean and no debris got past it and is obstructing the air to the turbo. (My brother had a filter come apart and plug up the turbo.) Don't buy cheap air filters!
Hope this helps. Let me know if you have any further questions.
I have a 94 K1500 6.5 turbo with 282,456 miles on it. Runs like a champ. Out pulls my new Ford.
The fuse for the parking lights for the 5701 is INSIDE the command module. You have to remove the door on the module to access this fuse. If the fuse is good, check the connection. Also, do the parking lights work with the vehicle switch?
If the connections were made to release the trunk and control the windows and... the remote locks, unlocks, remote starts the vehicle, there is no programming necessary. Press and hold the aux button to release the trunk. Depending on the setup and the window control being installed, it could be level1, 2 or 3. To access these different levels: Press F then aux, Press F twice then aux, Press F three times then aux, etc.
If the remote starter it was working before, check that all the doors trunk and hood are closed. And remote start the vehicle, approach to the window to see if the dash board lights turn it on if it does; check the pin switch make sure when you close the hood the switch get closed too if this is Ok. Check the tack wire you?ll see it is coming out of one of the ignition coils.