Normally a tripped circuit breaker is caused either by a short circuit or an overload in that particular branch. Or in some cases, a defective breaker.
The first condition can only be determined with the use of a tester by doing a short circuit test. To do this, at 1Kx resistance setting (using either an analog or a digital tester), connect one of the test prods (either the Positive or Negative prod, it really doesn't matter in this test) to one of the two prongs (live side) of the plug. Then, using the other test prod, to the other prong of the live side of the plug. What you should be reading is any value other than 0. Should your needle (in case of an analog tester) indicates or deflects to the value of 0, or if using a digital tester shows a value of 0, then in all likelihood there is a short circuit in your unit. The only way to find this is to trace where this short is originating from (this may be a little difficult with no schematic diagram to refer to). I would however suggest starting from the power cord itself since it is the breaker that is tripping with no blown fuse.
The other condition is overloading. Considering you are already using a 20A Circuit Breaker, this should aptly suffice for the threshold specification of the unit which is 15A. The question is, are there any other appliances being operated in this particular branch circuit? If there is, I would suggest that you try disconnecting/turning off all other appliances or devices using this branch and try operating your washing machine again. If it works fine, I would have to suggest that you replace your crcuit breaker with a higher current rating. To know by how much, I suggest you use this formula, Total Wattage of all appliances connected divided by Voltage Rating equals Required Ampere Rating of your breaker. I suggest using the next avalable higher ampere rating. Say if you have a 25A requirement, use a 30A circuit breaker.
Last but not least is the possibility of a defective breaker. If none of the above is the cause of the problem, I would suggest replacing the circuit breaker with a new one.
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
The F90 error code indicates that the door unlock time exceeded. This will happen if the lock is in the locked position with the oven door open or if the lock motor fails. Have someone hold in the oven door light switch while you set the control up for the self-cleaning cycle. Let the self-cleaning cycle run for only 4-5 minutes then press stop/cancel. This should allow the lock assembly to reset & retract the door lock back into the unlocked position.
You can also try resetting the appliance by disconnecting it from the outlet or switch off the circuit breaker for 20-30 minutes. Once power is restored run a test cycle. If this does not work I suspect a door lock assembly failure. This type of diagnosing will require accessing the lock assembly & using a volt/ohm meter for testing
i strongly recommend that you get in an electrician to investigate the problem
from your description of the amount of power required from your circuit breaker I would consider that there are to power wires from the back of that unit
one circuit to run half the points and another wire to run the rest
If only 1/2 are working, I am thinking that one of the wires at the back of the breakers is loose or come undone/broken and that will require the services of an electrician
To further explain this line of thought, each circuit in a house is designed to carry a maxim of 10 amp total (wire current capacity) so that with all outlets in operation the maximum current is 10 amps
if the required current allowed exceeds that the electricians break the numbers up so that a second circuit is employed again up to 10 amps max
if again there was a requirement that exceeded the 20 amps ( circuit breaker amp) a second circuit breaker would be installed and a 3rd circuit and so on
Ideally you should run the line straight from the circuit breaker out to your hot tub, but if the line running from your circuit breaker to the box you're using now is 20amp. you can absolutely connected to that. to be up to code it cannot be an open box it needs to be closed After you wire in your 70ft connection. (that's assuming the box that you're using is dedicated already to your hot tub) then the only difference would be is your using extra line and costing you tenths of a penny extra and electricity per hour.
A Higher rated Circuit breaker will not solve the problem if is not tripping now and putting in a higher rated breaker could lead to the point where the wiring itself is overloaded without the breaker tripping.
From your description, I think the problem lies where the wiring is attached to the back of the wall outlet. It may have been installed improperly and over time a resistive connection has developed, getting worse as time goes on and caused a noticeable voltage drop, as well as getting hot, when a decent current is being drawn. With the breaker off remove the wall outlet and any evidence of over heating should be readily visible. Cleaning and reterminating should solve the problem. If the connection at the wall outlet is OK, then a similar problem could have occurred where the wiring is attached at any other wall outlets in the same circuit or at the circuit breaker end of the circuit.
While there is a practical limit for the number of outlets on a 15 or 20 amp general purpose lighting circuit in a _residence_, the National Electric Code (NEC) does not impose a # of outlets per circuit limit (residential ONLY).
However, some electrician's design general purpose lighting circuits in a residence using a point system. An outlet is 2 points and a light is 1 point. So, for a twenty amp circuit, (10 outlets x 2 points) = 20. Or, (5 outlets x 2 points) + (10 lights x 1 point) = 10 + 10 = 20. Or (8 outlets x 2 points) + (4 lights x 1 point) = 16 + 4 = 20. However you want to mix it up.
Now, if this is for a Commercial building, the the NEC allows no more than 180 VA (Volt Amps) per outlet. 180 VA / 120 Volts = 1.5 Amps.
20 amps / 1.5 Amps = 13.3 outlets. Drop the .3 and one determines that 13 outlets are allowed on a Commercial 20 amp circuit.
Also, if the 20 amp circuit is considered a continuous circuit (ON for more than 3 hours a day), then it can only be loaded to 80%. 80% of 20 amps = 16 amps.
I have a couple of things for you to check or rule out. Today, a refrigerator is required by electrical code to be connected to a dedicated, 15 amp outlet because the newer fridges are more efficient and use less than 12 amps. Not long ago, a dedicated 20 amp outlet was required because the older fridges were rated to use 12 amps or more (but less than 16 amps) and needed the larger size circuit. A 20 amp circuit breaker or fuse should not open for any standard residential fridge under normal operating conditions. A 15 amp circuit breaker or fuse _MAY_ open if an older fridge (needs 12 amps of more) is connected. Make sure that if a circuit is opening at the fuse or breaker, it is not because there are several appliances or devices in use and on the same circuit as the fridge.
The same holds true for "ground fault" and "arc fault" type circuits. If an older fridge is connected to such a circuit - nuisance tripping may result. Most newer fridges however shouldn't cause a problem on these circuits. Ground fault circuits have a "test" button on the circuit breaker or, "test" and "reset" buttons on an outlet providing this protection. Arc fault circuit protection is available only in circuit breakers (as of this time - but may become available as outlets some time in the future).
If you need to to try to isolate the problem on a 20 amp circuit, disconnect all other appliances on the other 20 amp circuits in the kitchen and dining room, then see if the fridge stays running. Alternatively, you could use a heavy duty extension cord to connect the fridge to a known isolated 20 amp circuit to see if the fridge runs. This is meant only to troubleshoot - the fridge should not be left connected via extension cord for normal operation.
If you still have tripping, you might need to have the fridge professionally serviced, as a ground fault could be a dangerous condition left unchecked.
Please rate this replay id found to be helpful - good luck!
I would say something a little different than SmithBrother. You said you are putting on an addition and you asked how many outlets can you put on a 20 amp breaker. Because of the date on your comment, it is probably a little late to be replying but whaat the heck ... here goes.
I think there is a rule of thumb that you can put about 12 "holes" in a 15 or 20 amp circuit. A "hole" is a hole in the wall where a box would be put for a outlet or a light or a switch. I presume you know to use #12 wire on a 20 amp circuit and while you may use #14 on a 15 amp circuit, I prefer to shy away from #14 wire even though I MAY protect a given circuit with a 15 amp breaker. You can over protect but not under protect. 30 amp is #10 and so forth.
There are lots of other considerations ... too many to do justice in this short comment. However, I will hit a few hi lites. As SmithBrother says, a micro wave should have its own circuit as should a AC or a frig - I think that may go without sayng. I think you are speaking more general use. I believe the electric code says every wall must have a plug in it and you can go no more than 6 feet to get to a plug. So, if you have a 12 foot wall, one outlet in the middle will meet the requirement. There is nothting preventing you from puttine two outlets in that same wall. From my perspective, I want to have lots of outlets and I want them to be convenient for me to use. (There are more than 200 outlets in my home) Another thing, you cant put a outlete over a electric baseboard heater. You can put one at each end of such a heater but not where a lamp cord would lay in top of the hot heater surface.
Regarding the 12 hole rule ... if you have two switches that control the same light, you only count those two switches as one hole even though, obviously, there are two holes in the wall for the two switches. Count a second hole for the light. Conversely, if there is a light and a fan, you should count that one hole in the ceiling as two.