I need to change the spark plug on my Eager ****** Petrol Chain Saw but cannot figure out how to get the current spark plug our. It it covered by the housing of the chain saw and there appearrs to be no way of accessing the spark plug other than completely dismantling the whole chain saw. Can you please help. thanks
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Forget checking the spark by grounding the plug to the engine. This is both dangerous and does not tell if you have enough spark under compression.
Start by performing a secondary compression check, without proper secondary compression, the unit will not start. You need between 115 - 165 psi.
If compression is good, check the spark with an inline spark tester. Set the gap on the tester at 6mm. If you have a blue / white spark, ignition is good. Make sure the ignition is gapped .20" from the flywheel, more or less will retard or advance the timing of the saw. Make absolutely sure you have the manufacturer's recommended spark plug. If it calls for a resistor plug, it MUST use a resistor plug to operate properly.
If you have compression and spark, check fuel supply. Rebuilding modern carburetors is not recommended. They have very small fuel flow holes (due to emission) Replacement carbs can be purchased for under $100.
Not being facetious here... change the spark plug as a first step. They require regular replacement. If that doesn't work, use a multimeter to check that the spark plug wire is actually releasing electrical pulses. If it isn't, you'll need to keep moving further up the line to the coil.
To change the spark plug on chain saw or any small engine >> > pull off the spark plug wire > use a socket wrench (like mechanics use on cars) > select right size socket (buy at hardware store > the hardware store might remove the spark plug for you > rotate spark plug counterclockwise to remove > identify correct spark plug (buy at hardware store/ home center in lawn and garden section) > Install new spark plug > push spark plug wire back onto spark plug
On both of these saws to change the coil or adjust the points the engine must be removed from the case.
Disassembly is pretty straight forward. You first have to remove the screw for the choke, and pull the lever up, and that is off. Turn the high, and low needle screws all the way in, to lightly seat the needles. With a small flat screwdriver (I prefer using a dental pick, with a 90 degree hook at one end, and straight at the other), and lift the linkage up out of the grove of the throttle lever (very difficult to put back together). Remove the wrap around handle, the top handle, unplug the spark plug wire, remove the spark plug and then the starter assemble. There is a stud, or bolt on the bottom of the chain saw, and underneath the top handle, those have to be removed, as well. You will see a slotted hole, where there is a plastic plug in the bottom of it. GENTLY push that up, with a flat screwdriver. That is what locks the fuel tank and oil tank into place, with the fuel filter, and the fuel line. Then with all of the bolts removed, it should slide out. PAY Very CLOSE ATTENTION (don't mean to look like I'm yelling at you, but this is crucial), to how the fuel line, and the spark plug wire, comes out together. If you get them back wards when you put the chain saw back together, you will pinch the fuel line off, and the motor won't get any gas (learned that the hard way). Take care, and good luck. They can be finicky to work on, and some times aggravating to work on as well. HTH
If I were doing this there would be digital photos to jog the memory during reassembly.
If needed I think the point coil is pn 84957 Available $43.42 Solid state coil pn 217031 Available $39.46 These parts are NOT interchangeable.
I changed the oil pump on a 11-600016C and removed the housing. It is a challenge. Good luck. HTH Lou
Chain saws are still two-cycle engines (gas and oil mix) and they foul the spark plug pretty rapidly if not in perfect tune. Remove the spark plug and re-attach the wire and let the plug contact any metal part such as the cylinder head. Make sure the gas petcock is off and the start switch is on. Pull on the recoil starter and see if you have a spark jumping from the center electrode of the plug to the outer electrode of the plug. Clean and re-gap the plug and try it again. If no spark, the center electrode could be broken up inside the ceramic insulator and you can't see it. Try a new plug. If still no spark, another component of the simple electrical system could be bad. If your saw has a capacitor, change that out also. Sometimes the small coil that rides very close to the magnets on the flywheel comes out of adjustment. Proper gap for that is a small piece cut from a cereal box and placed between the coil and flywheel while re-tightening the coil bolts. Do not let the coil scrape on the flywheel. If any of this has helped, please rate accordingly. Good luck.
the unit is flooded...pull the spark plug and turn the unit over a few times to help dry it out.problem is that the crank case is also full of fuel.you can turn the unit upside down for a day to help the fuel out.install new spark plug,don't choke it,pull the trigger to full throttle pull the recoil ten times this will pull the fuel up to top of cylinder.remove spark plug pull a couple times and reinstall the spark plug.start the unit. if the unit floods again you have carb troubles.the needle is stuck open letting in too much fuel and it needs to be replaced.let me know if this helped.