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I took mine apart today and found the plastic armature that the motor connects to in order to turn the water tray right side up and up-side down was broken. Essentually the water tray has a plastic pivot arm on both sides. The one side has a slot that the motor fits into which allows the motor to turn the tray. When that little plastic arm breaks, the motor will be unable to move the tray thus causing the fault symbol. I have my tray out and trying to fabricate a part that will hopefully last a lot longer than the original. I hope this helps someone with their issue.
More than likely, your heating element has become shorted to its case, thereby allowing current to flow outside of the neutral, tripping the GFI. If you have a multimeter, you can measure the resistance of the heater itself (AC heater should be 125 ohms, +/-10%). There should not be any continuity between each of the heater wires to the case of the heater itself. Service Manual bryantrv.com/docs2/docs/rm2100.pdf Owners Manual bryantrv.com/docs2/docs/rm2193.pdf
Good day, It is normal for a compressor to run hotter than normal when it is going thru it's pull down cycle. One, it is working harder than normal since the interior is still warmer than normal. As well, at the beginning, since the machine is trying to get to normal temps as well as cooling the walls, it will run excessively if not all the time. Waiting 48 hours would be prudent to make a judgement call. The compressor should be warm, but since by then it should be shutting off and on it will tend overall to be cooler. If it reaches normal operating temperatures and cycles off and on, I wouldn't worry about it.
most often the problem lies within the cold temperature control failing to properly turn off and on the unit. when it freezes, its running more than it should. you will have to replace the cold control. But do to the complexity, and possibility of making costly errors in installation, i would recommend you find a reputable service company for help. start with anyone danby recommends. You can reply here or send me a question from my website: www.FixMyFridge.net
I have had this problem also. My experience has been that the propane line to the frig has air in it, especially after not being used for a while. Here's what I do:
1) Make sure the propane tank valve is open.
2) Light one of the burners on the stove. This may take a while but keep the gas on and a lighter at the burner. This is safe becuase as the air purges from the line it just blows the flame (from the ligher) around. Then when the air is purged the gas lights. Let the burner run for a couple of minutes. This sounds a bit odd, but what you are doing is bringing the "gas" close to the frig. The frig does not have to purge all that air as you have already done most of the purging by getting the burner to light. The facory setting for the frig is to stop trying to light after 45 seconds, and the "Check" light comes on.
3) Now try the frig. It may a couple times, but it should light and work fine.
I have found that this technique also helps with lighting the hot water.