I have a 350 2-channle Amp and i just got the pack with the 900 watt 2 12" Speakers with enclosure. And Everything is hooked up right. Now My Problem is that when i hook up the ground and everything the light doesnt come on. My friend tried hooking his amp to my speakers and everything and IT DIDNT WORK. But when he hooks the system up in his truck, IT WORKS. Can anyone tell me what my problem could be? Everything this is brand new, Head Unit, Speakers, and Amplifier.
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Re: Visonik 350watt Amp Doesnt Come On....
With your multimeter set to DC volts, the black meter probe on the ground terminal of the amp (not on the point where the ground wire connected to the vehicle) and the head unit on (so the amp will have remote voltage applied), touch the red probe alternately to the B+ and remote terminals of the amp. If the voltage is below ~11 volts, you need to check the wiring feeding whichever line is too low.
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this bandpass enclosure is rated peak power at 1200 watts . what this means is that each subwoofer in the is peaked at 600watts to make 1200 watts . what your looking for is to power up the subs with rms continuous wattage . you need an amp that will put out 400 to 500 rms a channel to run this sub enclosure at 800 to 1000 watts rms to keep the speaker from blowing
this amp will give you
1 channel @ 4 ohm x1 350 watts
1 channel @ 2 ohm x1 900 wats
1 channel @ 1 ohm x1 1800 watts
you would have extra power for better subs with more power later but you get 900 watts which when connected right would mean 450 watts per sub be perfect for you .
i sell this for $320.99 in my store can shipp any where in usa
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this is a dual voice coil sub. either have a 2 channel amp hook up to it. or have your mono amp have to sets of wires going out of it to your 2 connections. i dont suggest it but i have had one connection hooked up at a time played it when it blew hooked up the other connection as a back up. just make sure you have the right watt level for each voice coil.
Having your subs in well-designed and constructed enclosures will make as much or more difference in their output than how you connect them to an amp.
The TS-SW1241D's are single voice coil 4 ohm shallow subwoofers that are rated for 350 watts RMS. For maximum loudness, your JL amp needs to be 2 ohm stable and capable of delivering 700 watts RMS into that impedance. Wire the subs in parallel for a 2 ohm load and maximum power from the amp.
Visonik is somewhat low-end car audio and band pass enclosures in general usually produce rather muddy and boomy bass. It will probably sound "bad", but not hot, and not cool.
If you aim is a good self-contained system with amp, sub and enclosure all in one, why not consider an Infinity Basslink, MTX Thunderlink, or perhaps a Bazooka. They're all available at www.crutchfield.com for little more than you'll pay for the Visonik and any of them will definitely sound better.
It would be safe to use an amplifier
slightly lower than the maximum rating of the speaker. In this
particular case, 350 watts or lower would be just about right for each.
If you are wiring the 2 subs in parallel and powering them with a
single channel amp, then a 700 watt bridged would also work.
If you haven't already, check the fuse(s) on the amp itself. If this isn't the issue, it's possible there's a problem inside the amp. From that point, you can attempt to open the amp up and look for (obviously) blown components or you can choose to hand it off to a repair facility.
If you let me know your model number of the sub, vehicle make and model, and brand and model of headunit or CD player you have then i can provide wiring color codes, recommended wire routing locations, etc...
Remember that driving a load with an underpowered amp will probably cause more problems than having a more powerful amp that is not running flat out. 200-300W amp would be ok, but I would suggest going for the biggest you can afford. If you crank up the volume on the smaller amp you will probably get a fair amount of distortion, which may actually damage the speakers. A larger amp will not give as much distortion for the same loudness/volume and give better control of the speakers for a tighter bass..
The only real way of telling is a true bench test of the speakers. The speakers should be but on an amp with an adjustable tone generator at o db. The amp. should be hooked up to load resistors with 0 db(.775 milivolts) frequency sweeping hooked up to a ocilliscope to test properly. Anything else would be just a shot in the dark or a quess.