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30,000 BTU blue flame. Thermostat will not shut unit off. Techs said to relocate the sensor to closer to burner inside the unit 1st-- worked, but only ran 5-6 min. and was off 3-4 min. Other tech sa

I said it all in Title. This cannot be the 1st time this has come up--- which the 1st tech. admitted to, and it is on it's feet in the middle of room. With wall mount, I can't see how it would get air at all to work. I questioned the location of the sensor when I first saw it.

4 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 74 Answers
  • Posted on Feb 28, 2010

SOURCE: flame wont stay on, runs for about 5-10 secs and

usually the thermocouple wears out. Make sure the thermocouple is in the flame, if it is, and it still wont stay lit I would change that first.

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Anonymous

  • 90 Answers
  • Posted on Nov 24, 2010

SOURCE: I have a switch on the wall that controls the

you need to get wall switch and wire to this changed as it is impossible to test these for faults as can happen after a few hours of operating (usually to do with the heat of the fire place dso if it has a fan hopefully you are using it it'll keep components cooler in heater and stop things like this happening), but i'm assuming that cable to wall switch runs down side of heater or something and i'm guessing its got hot maybe melted to side of heater and may have damaged wall switch so i would replace both, this has really been the only problem i have had all year with heaters and its due to turning the fan off which you can do in some heaters that arn't entirly designed for heating, if you are heating with a gas heater its important to run fan no matter how noisey it may be and there not that noisey really just turn tv up i'd rather be warm through winter than hear my tv so i'd rather hear a fan than the news, most of the time it sounds more intresting anyway and i have heard of mechanics that have pulled out melted fans from heaters because they were off, i have found cables starting to melt too so its a safety issue too and lastley if your not running fan heat goes up flu waste of money so i think its important and would have maore than half of call outs less as it has been a problem with heaters with turning fan off, i may be wrong but i'm guessing this may be the problem and if you do use fan the cable to wall switch may be down side of heater making contact with a hot surface and melting causing problem i would also do switch aswell as heat could have damaged to as cable would have conducted heat to switch

Anonymous

  • 43501 Answers
  • Posted on Jan 22, 2011

SOURCE: I have a new mr

Hi,
The problem is the nonregulated propane tank....you may have already damaged the gas valve...

The gas pressure coming into the gas valve can be no more then 13"WC or it will not open...
You will need to get a regulator installed in the line from the tank that will allow no more then 13" WC gas pressure to the gas valve...

heatman101

Anonymous

  • 4736 Answers
  • Posted on Apr 18, 2011

SOURCE: I have a Big Maxx

There are several things that could be causing this problem. Low gas pressure comes to mind, first. Followed by an electronic ignition problem. Which may simply be caused by poor line voltage or a dirty sensor. Amazingly, not using the heater regularly, can do more harm than good. Because, in the long down times, spiders like to go into these heaters and build nests. These nests can really clog things u

As far as the lots of flame on ignition, this is probably a result of delayed ignition, which causes a gas build up.

In addition, if you live in an area that is more than 2000 feet above sea level, the pressure regulator should be adjusted to provide more gas.

Juts in case you have misplaced your Owners Manual, I have included a link to it, that you can download and print for future reference.

http://www.mrheater.com/upload/newsletter/MHU_HSU_CUH_60016_BL.pdf

If you continue to have problems and are dissatisfied, contact ENRICO (the manufacturer of Mr Heater Products), Technical Service Dept at 800-251-0001

Hope this has helped you troubleshoot the problem and hopefully solve the problem.

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My adp cuhn-60a-2 sparks an lights burner ok, burns for only few seconds an shuts down burner, repeats this three times an whole unit shuts down?

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My 30,000 btu Blue Flame gas wall heater wont stay lit, pilot light stays lit but the blue flame went out and had smell of gas I shut off the gas supply but, dont know what is the problem thanks, marty

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I have a 150,000 BTU NATURAL GAS HEATER. IT WILL RUN FOR 10 SECONDS AND QUITS. IT WILL NOT IGNITE AGAIN UNLESS YOU SHUT IT OFF AND RESTART

Hi,
The heater is not proving the flame...and shutting down on safety...
Check the flame sensor and all connections of the ground from the burner to the ignition control...
The control may also be bad...
for additional help with Dayton units go to www.grainger.com
they sell that brand and have their own repair help techs.

heatman101
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Intalled an overhead 130K BTU Mr. Heater last

On a call for heat, the 24 volt thermostat sends a signal to the control module. The control module will indicate a call for heat with a light on the control either blinking or remain solid depending upon model. The inducer (exhaust) blower will purge all gasses from the furnace and pressurize a pressure switch. Once the pressure switch tells the module to continue, the electronic ignition will energize and send 120 volts to the igniter. The igniter will glow and you will be able to see it if viewed thru the small inspection port. Once the igniter gets hot enough, it sends a signal to the module opening up the gas valve (24 volts). Either a pilot will come on or the burner tube will ignite then spread the flame to all burners. Lastly a safety sensor will be looking for a certain temperature within a few seconds and the furnace will continue to operate and the room air blower will turn on in a minute or two.

What could go wrong? The unit will not run if there is no signal from the thermostat (bad thermostat or broken wire), the control module does not sense a signal from the thermostat (bad control), the inducer does not energize (bad motor), the pressure switch does not close (blocked vent piping, bad switch, plugged condensate hose), the igniter does not energize (bad control, bad igniter), the gas valve does not open or there is no gas (bad gas valve, broken wire, no gas), the pilot does not light (dirty pilot), the burner does not light (bad burner, plugged orifice, not enough combustion air), the flame does not spread to each burner (bad flame spreader, dirty flame spreader, more bad burners), the flame safety sensor does not detect flame (dirty or bad flame spreader, bad flame sensor, broken wire, bad control), or the room air blower does not energize (bad fan motor, bad control).
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