Question about Whirlpool LER4634J Electric Dryer

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LE7800XMW2 does not start all of a sudden

We changed latch, it was broken, but problem persists. Dryer does not start, outside fuse is checked and is OK. Drier gets electricity, but is not working, please, help!

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Check your thermal fuse.it is located in the back.you take the rear panel off with the dryer unplugged. it is a little white thing.. with one wire off check for 0 ohms.

Posted on Nov 11, 2008

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DRYER WILL NOT TURN ON AT ALL


Hi.

If the dryer does not start and does not heat check thermal fuse and door latch. Both parts can be tested reading impedance with a multimeter.

If the dryer starts and heats up but the basket does not turn, check the motor and the belt. In that case you probably have a broken belt.

Regards.

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If a dryer is not working at all that's not good! But it doesn't mean you need to go appliance shopping just yet. It may be something very simple like a broken door latch, a bad door switch or even a broken door switch actuator, in a kenmore dryer there is a tab thats sticks out of a hole in the wall that allows the dryer to run only if the door is shut, other models may have button that protrudes out of the dryer and when the door is shut, this allows the dryer to run. These switches go out from time to time, also if a dryer is full of lint build-up over time this will cause the dryer high limit or fuse to blow. The fuse is located near where the blower is in most cases. When the air in the dryer gets way too hot the fuse/hi-limit will blow and the house wont burn down.

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Since you did not post a model number it is difficult to determine what features your dryer has. However, here are some of the most common causes of a dryer that will not start:

1. Blown Thermal Fuse. Located on the blower fan assembly and is a white plastic looking component with two wires on it. A measurement across the fuse should read a short (0 ohms) if good. Make sure all measurements are taken with the dryer unplugged and the wires disconnected from the fuse.

2. Broken dryer belt. Some dryers are equipped with a broken belt switch that will shut the dryer off in the event of a broken belt. This prevents the belt from wrapping around the drive motor shaft. You will need to open the dryer and do a visual check to determine if the belt is still in one piece around the drum.

3. Broken door latch. You can usually tell if the latch is working properly by leaving the door open and toggling it with your hand. If the drum light shuts off when depressed, more than likely you don't have a door latch problem.

4. Bad centrifugal switch on the drive motor. The drive motor has a centrifugal switch that engages when the motor begins to spin. Some dryer motors have a separate centrifugal switch that can be replaced, while others have an internal switch which requires the entire replacement of the drive motor.

5. Bad drive motor. Commonly caused by failure of the internal centrifugal switch or bad motor windings. I have found the main connector plug on the motor loose at times causing the dryer to fail too.

6. Bad start switch on the control panel.

7. Bad control board on the control panel (if equipped). Not all dryers have a control board. Some only use a simple start switch.

I hope I've given you enough items to think about. If you have questions, or require additional assistance, please post back with your model number so that I may be able to provide you with better assistance. I hope this helps.

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It will most probably be the door switch which is either sticking, give the door casing latch a gentle knock with the back of a screw driver, or is just broken. Try and get to the two wires at the switch and shorting them out i.e. linking out the switch. Make sure the dryer is UNPLUGGED when you do this.

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