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No current through plates.

Power light is on but no current through the plates even when using test button.

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Bought a new one.

Posted on Oct 06, 2008

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6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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there's a defect in the grid somewhere and trace it till u find the spot! once u find the spot find way to fix it! might have to replace rear glass!!

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Error code e01


do the following steps: God bless you
To start test program, press and hold both POWER SCRUB PLUS and RINSE & HOLD program buttons, then turn unit on by pressing ON/OFF button. When program buttons are released, lights above them will flash. To end test program, press ON/OFF button.To check program indicator lights (POWER SCRUB PLUS, REGULAR WASH and RINSE & HOLD), press and hold each program button. When REGULAR WASH program button is pressed, CLEAN light also comes on.
To start testing, press both POWER SCRUB PLUS and RINSE & HOLD buttons a second time. When testing has ended and a fault was detected, the following indicator lights will be lit:
POWER SCRUB PLUS = Heater fault
REGULAR WASH = Water filling fault (over or under filling)
RINSE & HOLD = NTC (temperature sensor) fault ? note circulation motor stops shortly after it started during an NTC fault
To check for heater, high limit or flow switch problems, start testing until heating starts. Using a meter with a current coil, measure current going into dishwasher. If current is ~ 11 A, then heater, high limit and flow switch are OK. If current stays at ~ 1.5-2 A, then heater, high limit or flow switch are faulty.
If water level switch (f1) has failed (opened), REGULAR WASH light will come on and unit will continually fill and drain where testing won't be completed. If flow switch (e5) has failed (opened), water won't heat (to 150?F) and water won?t stop circulating. If NTC probe (f2/f4) has failed (opened), RINSE & HOLD light will come on immediately and testing will end shortly after water has started circulating.
If more than one fault occurs, more than one light will be lit.

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My garbage disposal isn't working. it doesn't even make a sound when i hit the switch. i checked the circuit breaker and it's not that...i pushed the reset button underneath and it didn't help, either.


On the bottom of the disposal there is a small red reset switch. Push it in and see if it stays. Turn on switch and see what happens. If it hums or buzzes take a 1/4 inch allen wrench and insert it into opening in the center of the bottom. Turn wrench back and forth while running hot water through disposal to help clear any blockage. Turn on switch on and see if thats helped. Thank you.

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1 Answer

Year old Bosch SHU33A0UC won't start. Lights on


Light's on mean you have power.

Initiate the self test program by doing the following -

To start test program, press and hold both POWER SCRUB PLUS and RINSE & HOLD program buttons, then turn unit on
by pressing ON/OFF button. When program buttons are released, lights above them will flash. To end test program, press
ON/OFF button.
To check program indicator lights (POWER SCRUB PLUS, REGULAR WASH and RINSE & HOLD), press and hold each
program button. When REGULAR WASH program button is pressed, CLEAN light also comes on.
To start testing, press both POWER SCRUB PLUS and RINSE & HOLD buttons a second time. When testing has ended
and a fault was detected, the following indicator lights will be lit:
POWER SCRUB PLUS = Heater fault
REGULAR WASH = Water filling fault (over or under filling)
RINSE & HOLD = NTC (temperature sensor) fault – note circulation motor stops shortly after it started
during an NTC fault
To check for heater, high limit or flow switch problems, start testing until heating starts. Using a meter with a current coil,
measure current going into dishwasher. If current is ~ 11 A, then heater, high limit and flow switch are OK. If current stays
at ~ 1.5-2 A, then heater, high limit or flow switch are faulty.
If water level switch (f1) has failed (opened), REGULAR WASH light will come on and unit will continually fill and drain
where testing won't be completed. If flow switch (e5) has failed (opened), water won't heat (to 150ºF) and water won’t stop
circulating. If NTC probe (f2/f4) has failed (opened), RINSE & HOLD light will come on immediately and testing will end
shortly after water has started circulating.
If more than one fault occurs, more than one light will be lit.

Let me know what you figure out. I can repair these boards most of the time.

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2 Answers

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Hello mate,
check that:
1. power supply is connected correctly to the electricity and from the other side to your laptop. 2. there is normally a light on the power supply, make sure that this light is one. in case it's off, that means the power supply is broken. 3. There is a charge light on the laptop which should be on once you connect the power supply to the laptop even tough the laptop is off. if this light is off, that means: a. the power supply is not passing the current to the laptop: you may test with another power supply. b. the power connector on the laptop is broken.
In the worst case, the motherboard maybe broken.

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1 Answer

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BAD CONTROL BOARD TO TEST TO SEE IF THIS IS THE ISSUE RUN TEST PROGRAM
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To check each program indicator light, press its button. To check Cycle Countdown display, Refill Rinse Agent light and
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alone). Cycle Countdown display will show "88" when REGULAR WASH button is pressed and "8h" when Delay Start
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To start testing, press both SCRUB WASH and DELICATE/ECONO buttons a second time. When testing has ended,
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If water level switch (f1) has failed (opened), display will show fault code "4" and unit will continually fill and drain where
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1 Answer

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