I ordered the caps that you specified in your fix. Do you know what the specs are on the large coil that is on the end of that same board? Mine has gotten pretty hot and some of the glue/insulation melted off of it.
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Are you talking about the fuses.....if you remove the cover on the sub..you can pop out the fuse and look at the end caps on the fuse...the amperage rating should be stamped right on the end cap...make sure you read the type lettering also...the type rating determines if it is a slow blow type or fast acting type...slow blow fuses are usually type "MDL" or "T" and regular ones "AGC" of "F"
In general higher speaker impedance is safer than lower impedance for the amp. Don't expect anything impressive re: audio output from a passive (unpowered) sub if your HTS says it pushes only 25 watts. Without frequency bandwidth and distortion noted the spec is virtually useless as a comparison.
The BU-1 is a powered sub that accepts either RCA Line Level or HIGH LEVEL amplifier power. If you use the latter, impedance is a non-issue because the input feeds the BU-1's internal amp, not the speaker directly. You should be okay.
Perhaps if we knew some specifics about the HTS we could do more than guess.
Unfortunately there are two standards for the pole diameters. Some of the smaller poles have caps to accomodate the larger brackets. First thing is to measure what you have for poles and the two sizes of mounting holes. Many of the mounting bosses are standard and available online here is an example:
you may not have a big enough power wire to it, and it could also not be grounded good. You have to know the limits of your amp too. They are rated by Ohms of stability. Most amps that small are only stable down to 4 ohms. Most subs have 4 ohm coils, but there are also double coils, and 8 ohm subs. You will need to know the ohms on your subs. If you load your amp down to a lower ohm load than the amp is capable of handling, then it could also cause this.
Does the Sub have a Low- Level input? This is a RCA type female connector, what you need to do is run a Male RCA cable from your home theatre where it says Sub-OUT and go into the Sub woofer Line in. Unless you only have speaker wire inputs on the back of the Sub then take the Left and Right front into the Sub speaker inputs and then out of the Sub speaker OUTS back to your speakers.
More than likely the power supply switching transistors have fried. Also check the large caps in the primary side of the power supply. If you don't know what your are doing do not attempt to fix the power supply.. very dangerous voltages involved !!! Send it to Klipsch for repair or purchase a Bash replacement panel http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=300-750