Question about KitchenAid Architect Series KEMC308KSS Electric Double Oven

6 Answers

Kitchenaid builtin microwave oven # Kemc307KSS

The microwave just stopped working, it says door , when you press start and enter the time. just won't work anymore. never had any problems with it . just repeatedly says door now. so we had the door sensors replaced and that didn't do anything, still the same problem. it won't work.

also occasionally the the oven will say that the thermometer is plugged in and it's not. don't have a clue where the thermometer is. so it sounds like something is wrong with the controls somewhere ?

help please because it's a in wall unit and presently sitting in the center of the kitchen out of the wall for the past month because the appliance repair man never came back and said he had to talk with a tech manufacturer but that was weeks ago.
KitchenAid KEMC308KBL04. Long story... but I tripped one of the interlocks while the door was open and now it only indicates "Door." and the interior light doesn't illuminate. Based on the prior responses, the 15A fuse is blown. Can you point me to a manual that describes where this fuse is and how to replace it?

Thanks!

Posted by on

  • 2 more comments 
  • sdbaker22 Oct 11, 2008

    Techgurus,
    Thanks for the reply. Unfortunately, the repair manual is what I really need and I can't find it on your website. Your call-in support indicated it is not available. I'm comfortable with the electronics & switch repair, but unsure how to get to the fuse. How do I remove the "guts" of microwave from the cabinet. Do I have to pull the entire built-in stove out of the wall to get to the fuse?
    Thanks!

  • sdbaker22 Oct 11, 2008

    Thanks for the link, but it appears these are user manuals, not repair manuals.

  • sdbaker22 Oct 11, 2008

    Thanks! We're getting closer. Again, the original problem was caused by me accidentally tripping one of the two door-closed switches b/c I wanted the light off w/ the door open (long story - I should have just opened the breaker!), and that I'm sure caused the primary/secondary/monitor switch circuit to short the fuse (yes, it may have also done other things.) I'm trying to figure out for this kitchen aide built-in double oven how to get at the electronics. Do I have pull the whole double oven out of the cabinet to access the fuse? Is there a way to access the electronics via front display panel removal?

    BTW - I design defibrillators as part of my job. 4200V/48uF cap = 423 J. Enough to wake the dead/kill the living. Tx for the extra warning.

  • sdbaker22 Oct 12, 2008

    Regarding the last response. I don't mean to be rude, but don't you think the first thing I did was return the door latch to the original position? The fuse blown was the interlock fuse, not the main fuse.

    No one figured gave me the answer to the question I posed. The original question can be summarized: I need to replace the 15A interlock fuse. Can you point me to a manual that describes where this fuse is and how to replace it?

    Here's the answer for the Kitchen Aide KEMC308K series.
    1) The service manual is behind the control panel on the left hand side. For my built-in, I turned off the power and removed the oven from the cabinet, exposing the sheet metal shroud. Remove the top piece and there on the left hand side is the service manual.
    2) The manual indicates the fuse is in the right rear of the microwave. This is correct, but it is actually accessible through the right side.
    (this much would have answered my question!)

    As long as I slogged though this, I thought some other people would like to know how to solve the "door" error problem. It could be caused by a faulty control panel, but before going there, the check the switches and fuse in the door interlock circuit. Check this link for a discussion: http://www.gallawa.com/microtech/switch....

    Repair steps:
    Remove the rear sheet metal shroud and you see nothing but the back and side of the microwave. Remove the right sheet metal shroud and expose the right side of the microwave. This panel has a bunch of warnings, heed them. However, the are missing one: SHARP EDGES. Think about putting tape on the exposed sheet metal edges. Remove the panel and expose the "guts" of the microwave: Rectifier, wave guide, magnetron, capacitor, and such. The interlock fuse is next to the capacitor contacts. Safely discharge the capacitor (method described in numerous places via google search and the link above).

    Remove the fuse, verify it is blown using an ohm meter (ceramic fuse - you can't see inside). The fuse is actually (despite what the tech manual says) a 20A 250V fuse. Available at radio shack in a pack of 4 for $2.99. Install the new fuse.

    As long as you have this much done, may as well ensure that the microswitches still work. Remove the contacts from the microswitch. There are 2 close to each other. From the 3rd contact to these, one should open when the other should be closed. Ensure that this is true and that when the switch is depressed, the state reverses (the contact that was open is now close & connects to the common). Do this for both door-closed sensing microswitches and replace the wiring to the microswitches. Replace all the microwave side panels and the sheet metal shroud. Turn on the breaker and hopefully, as it was on mine, the "DOOR" error message is gone and it starts up normally.

    Oh, when the power comes on the unit runs a self test, lots of blinking lights followed by a power-failure error code when the power comes on. I think it was pf .d=30. Hit cancel and it goes away.

    Hope this helps someone else!
    sb

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Hi call a qualified technician to solved your problem. please dont rate me

Thanks!

Posted on Oct 13, 2008

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Calling a technician will be much better as it is necessary to assess the unit out of the cabinet to remove the fuse and check it.as if you call a technician he will check the unit itsef in the cabinet and locate the exact problem is fuse or something else and try to repair the unit in the cabinet itself.it will be much safe and easier process.as if you try to remove the unit from the cabinet and if something goes wrong it will be more costly then now to get your unit repaired.and as per the present condition i dont think as there is a major problem in the unit it will be easily repaired and the reparing cost will be negligible.still as if you want to try it your self.you can remove the unit from the cabinet and there is enough explanation given by the two brillant experts irish druid and techgurus to open the device and check where the fuse is located.you can try that instructions.

thanks.

Posted on Oct 11, 2008

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Do you require a manual or you have a manual.

Posted on Oct 06, 2008

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Hello sdbaker,

based from your story, you have pointed already the problem .

you have tripped the door switch. meaning the processor is sensing that the door is open and would not run the unit. if the fuse is blown then there would be no electronics at all. so in your case, the fuse is not blown.

open the door and reverse what you did with the door switch, that should solve your problem.

tnx 4 using fixya,

drcool

Posted on Oct 11, 2008

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Before anything else, try a hard reset first - Unplug the unit from power source, wait about 15mins and replug. Check that the 15A fuse is working and that the contacts are not oxidised. If they are, just scrape off the oxidised with a screwdriver.

If that does not work, it could be a faulty control panel, which will need to be replaced.

Posted on Oct 11, 2008

  • 1 more comment 
  • Swilin Sampson
    Swilin Sampson Oct 11, 2008

    Also check that that you are getting 240V (yes, not 120v) at the outlet. Check the prongs on the plug to see if they are broken or replace it completely.

    If nothing works, its best to call a repairman, as there is a high voltage capacitor that holds 2000v inside even when the microwave is unplugged. Opening the microwave if you have no experience can give you a FATAL shock. Play safe.


  • Swilin Sampson
    Swilin Sampson Oct 11, 2008

    This picture should give you a fair idea of where the control panel fuse is located:



    Its usually located just behind the control panel on most models.
    Always be sure to completely discharge the HV capacitor before you do nything. Here's a pic of the HV capacitor:


    Using
    a screwdriver with an INSULATED handle, touch the two terminals of the
    capacitor together. Note that the shaft of the screwdriver is
    electrically connected to the outer metal casing of the capacitor with
    an alligator clip jumper wire as shown in the diagram below:



    Hope that helps! Please don’t forget to "Accept"
    the solution if it helped you in any way, or leads you to a fix.



    Thank you for using FixYa!






    Cheers!

    IrishDruid






  • Swilin Sampson
    Swilin Sampson Oct 11, 2008

    In most models, the back panel will have to be removed to access internal components, but I am not familiar with your model..

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I'm posting this as a solution after I went through several different web sites to and trial & error to fix my "DOOR" error code problem.
The original question I submitted can be summarized: I need to replace the 15A interlock fuse. Can you point me to a manual that describes where this fuse is and how to replace it?

Here's the answer for the KitchenAid KEMC308K series.
1) The service manual is behind the control panel on the left hand side. For my built-in, I turned off the power and removed the oven from the cabinet, exposing the sheet metal shroud. Remove the top piece and there on the left hand side is the service manual.
2) The manual indicates the fuse is in the right rear of the microwave. This is correct, but it is actually accessible through the right side.

As long as I slogged though this, I thought some other people would like to know how to solve the "door" error problem. It could be caused by a faulty control panel, but before going there, the check the switches and fuse in the door interlock circuit. Check this link for a discussion: http://www.gallawa.com/microtech/switch.html

Repair steps:
Remove the rear sheet metal shroud and you see nothing but the back and side of the microwave. Remove the right sheet metal shroud and expose the right side of the microwave. This panel has a bunch of warnings, heed them. However, the are missing one: SHARP EDGES. Think about putting tape on the exposed sheet metal edges. Remove the panel and expose the "guts" of the microwave: Rectifier, wave guide, magnetron, capacitor, and such. The interlock fuse is next to the capacitor contacts. Safely discharge the capacitor (method described in numerous places via google search and the link http://www.gallawa.com/microtech/safety.html ).

After the capacitor is discharged, remove the fuse, verify it is blown using an ohm meter (ceramic fuse - you can't see inside). The fuse is actually (despite what the tech manual says) a 20A 250V fuse. Available at radio shack in a pack of 4 for $2.99. Install the new fuse.

As long as you have this much done, may as well ensure that the microswitches still work. Remove the contacts from the microswitch. There are 2 close to each other. From the 3rd contact to these, one should open when the other should be closed. Ensure that this is true and that when the switch is depressed, the state reverses (the contact that was open is now close & connects to the common). Do this for both door-closed sensing microswitches and replace the wiring to the microswitches. Replace all the microwave side panels and the sheet metal shroud. Turn on the breaker and hopefully, as it was on mine, the "DOOR" error message is gone and it starts up normally.

Oh, when the power comes on the unit runs a self test, lots of blinking lights followed by a power-failure error code when the power comes on. I think it was pf .d=30. Hit cancel and it goes away.

So, this is a pain to do b/c there are about 40 sheet metal screws to deal with and one has to be careful discharging the cap. Pulling the oven out of the cabinet was the hardest part. I build a table at the same height and just slid the entire unit right onto my "work table." If I had to do it again, I'd have the entire thing done in under 30 minutes.

Hope this helps someone else!
sb

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