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Re: Wiring a fan motor on outside unit
Hello Ky_dodge_gir.. In most communities, the wiring to that outside unit is fed with flex tubing that comes from a disconnect box mounted to the outside wall of the house. If yours is like that, open it up and pull the disconnect module out to disable power to the fan motor. Before working on it, verify power has been disabled ( I use an inexpensive volt meter or non contacting inductive power sense testor ..looks like a small flashlight and beeps/lights up if power is sensed in a wire lead). Once you are certain power have been disabled, you should be able to unplug the existing fan power connector from it's corresponding mating plug or (assuming you have the exact replacement fan) match color code wire for wire from the old to the new. The fan unit is a bolt in/bolt out assembly so that should be fairly obvious when working on it. Hope that helps you..
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Well, the answer is yes. I have seen a bad capacitor cause a fan motor to run backwards. BUT..... After replacing the capacitor and WIRING it up the right way, everything should be fine. A lot of aftermarket condenser fan motors are reversible, so it can run counter-clockwise (CCW) or clock-wise (CW). However, most factory fan motors come one directional and on your specific unit, the air should always push out of the top. Running the unit with the fan going backwards will actually some-what do it's job, but damage other components like the compressor because it runs at higher operating pressures than what it is designed for.
Have someone else look at it! That's going to be the best advice I can give you. If they can prove that a capacitor caused the motor to permanently run backwards..... I want to know! Hope this helps and good luck with your unit.
If the circuit breaker is not tripped (and you have line voltage to the unit) - and your inside blower motor is running - then your problem is with the thermostat/or the wiring from t-stat to outside unit.
Could it be you don't have the t-stat set on "cooling," or possibly not set at a low enough temperature to allow the unit to be turned on? Note: your t-stat must be set 'below' the inside temp, i.e. if the room temp is 78 degrees - you must turn the selector to below 78, i.e. 75, 74, so on.
Check your low voltage wire going to the outside unit - usually a thin brown wire which encases 2 smaller wires (usually red and yellow) that goes to the 'starter relay' inside the outside unit. Make sure a dog hasn't chewed it in - two - or someone hasn't cut it with a weed eater. If this is the case, turn the t-stat to off, and un-plug the inside unit (furnace) and splice the wires back together.
You can do this fairly easy with a pair of cutters and if the wires are 'color coded' you will know which wire(s) to splice back together. Note: this is 24V wiring but still you should make sure power is off - because 24V can zap you sometimes - AND you want the power off so you don't 'cross' the wires and short out the transformer.
There is a chance that the thermostat is bad - but it is not likely, and in any event you'd probably need a serviceperson to diagnose this.
If your compressor kicks on outside but the fan on top doesnt you need to ck the capacitor to the fan and the wiring to each. There is a schematic inside the elect panel on the outside unit it will give you an idea where the capacitor is it will be a silver or grey metal device with three wires coming out of it or you will have one small and one larger one with two wires coming out of each. the fan runs off a 5uf capacitor and the compressor a 35 uf capacitor. The most obviouse thing will be burnt or melted wires inside the elect panel when a capacitor goes bad it usually takes wiring with it. If wiring looks good buy a new motor and replace the capacitor at the same time. take the elect motor with you so it can be matched up.
It sounds like there is a problem with the blower....either the motor itself, the capacitor, a wiring problem or a control problem. If there is a warranty on the unit, have a tech check it out for you.
Than the reverseing valve is not changing over swict to emergency or aux heat. then the wireing outside needs to be checked to make sure orange goes from O @ stat to the outside. More than likely youll find the reversing valve tied together with the red outside in the wiring panal where an installer forgot to untie them...
Hi, If you have what is called a heat pump, the outdoor unit is supposed to run. It has a reversing valve which reverses the flow of refrigerant and the indoor unit becomes the condenser and the outdoor becomes the evaporator coil. Now, if you don't have a heat pump and the furnace is gas fired, then the control wiring or thermostat is calling for both to come on. Control wiring has to be touching together somewhere and bringing on both. Look over the exposed stat wire outside if you have a dog that may have chewed the wires, I have seen this happen. If all wiring looks good, then the stat is faulty and must be replaced. Make sure you don't have a heat pump first, as the fan, compressor, and all will run on heat and cooling. I hope this will solve you're problem, please let me know, I would like to hear back. Sincerely, Shastalaker7
Ok, typically now I stress typically! Red is pwr., Green is fan, blue is generally cool or common. Wh1 is heat, wh2 is 2nd stage heat, and so on. The ouside unit usually only has two wires, one goes to the cool term. and the other goes to a common. Without actually seeing what you have, I'm taking an educated guess. Good luck!
If the unit is working fine in heat mode and in fan only mode, you have a short in the wiring going to the ouside unit. If it were a fan relay, then everytime the fan came on the breaker would trip. But either way, there is a low voltage short taking place in the unit. If the compressor was bad, the indoor unit would run fine and would only blow the breakers to the ouside unit. I had a unit last summer that did the same exact thing. After I replaced the control wiring to the outside unit, everything worked like a charm. Good luck!