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Outdoor unit not coming on.

I have a 2 stage heatpump. The Indoor unit will come on when you switc on the thermostat. It calls for cooling the thermostat reads on the display INRECOVERY and the outdoor unit never comes on. I tried switching it to heating (NOT AUX) to see if the outdoor unit would come on. I replaced the fuses at the dissconnect box outside next to the unit turned the power back on and still nothing. I took off the side panel to the unit to see if there was possibly a reset button on the compressor but I was not able to see one. The TRANE unit is approx. 8 years old and was fully serviced down to oiling the fan motor 2 years ago.

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Replace the indoor pc board and thermistor.

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SOURCE: ac split unit indoor an ouydoor unit electrical wiring diagram

machine off

Posted on Apr 25, 2009

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SOURCE: indoor an outdoor unit wiring diagram

have you tryed to look it up on the net.a lot of the time you can get that sort of info off the web

Posted on May 02, 2009

  • 10 Answers

SOURCE: Outdoor unit does not start. indoor unit fan does run.

by the sound of it the relay in the outdoor section is bad

Posted on May 31, 2009

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SOURCE: Airforce 12000BTU Air Conditioner wiring problem

The outdoor unit should have 2 small wires connected to the contactor coil. This delivers the 24v "Signal" to energize the coil. The wire from the t'stat for cooling are usually yellow, in almost every case. When you put the t'stat in the cooling mode and set the temp lower than the room temp, the indoor and outdoor unit should come on. Check for voltage on the terminal block for 24 volts accross the yellow and common wire. Common could be ground on some handlers. If you have the 24 volts, then check for 24v on the 2 small wires (usually 18 to 22 gage wire) on the contactor coil. If no voltage, trace the 2 wires back to the indoor unit and see where they go. If they are the ones that are not attached, put one on the yellow wire terminal and the other on the common terminal. This will send power to the indoor unit and then piggyback to the outdoor unit. Do not remove the yellow and common from the terminal block. Don't be too concerned about the colors from the outdoor coil wires. Just make sure they are hooked up right. Good Luck and hope this gets it going.

Posted on Jun 07, 2009

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1 Answer

Luxpro psd111 thermostat shows snowflake (sometimes blinks), outdoor fan works, but no cool air comes out inside- no air flow at all. Is it the thermostat or an a/c unit malfunction?


If the outdoor unit is running the indoor fan should definitely be running. Turn power off to indoor unit. Put red green and yellow wires together behind the tstat with a wire nut. That is power (red), indoor fan (green), and compressor (yellow.) Turn power back on. This is bypassing the tstat and you should have indoor fan and outside running as well. If yes the problem is in the tstat, if no indoor fan the problem is in the unit. Good Luck!! Let me know!!

Apr 28, 2017 | Heating & Cooling

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I'm looking for a thermostat to replace my simple comfort 2200 it has 7 wires across B O W2 G E Y1 Y2 and 3 wires vertical R C L I'm looking for a thermostat to replace wire for wire. can you help??


What you have is a 2 stage cool/3 stage heat pump compatible tstat. And I'm guessing by the info you provided that the wires "across and vertical" are 2 sets of wires that are running inside the wall to your indoor unit. As if they didn't have enough wires and run an extra. We normally run 1 control wire with 5,8,10.or12 wires inside. And there should only be a wire connected to B or O, not both? Again I'm guessing. If I'm correct, then any "2 stage cool/3 stage heat" tstat that is "heat pump compatible" should work. I'm also assuming that you have wires connected to B or O. Now if you have a wire connected to both B & O, best call out someone to change it for you because that's different than I've ever seen. Also, the L is a wire used from the outdoor unit, and sometimes both indoor and outdoor, to communicate with the thermostat when something's wrong. Most multi-stage tstats will have this but you'll need to check/ask before you purchase if you want this feature. Also, after you install, be sure to configure the new that to match your system. Hope this helps!

Mar 06, 2017 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

How to troubleshoot thermostat wiring?


I'm not sure if the thermostat is wired correctly. First, the thermostat is wired directly to the outdoor unit (compressor/condenser unit). It is NOT directly connected to the indoor unit. It connects to a low voltage control panel in the outdoor unit that sends a signal to your indoor fan/evaporator. This wire is called the fan relay switch and physically runs between the low voltage controls of the indoor and outdoor units. If the fan relay is bad it's possible that the unit runs continuously. To prevent destroying your outdoor unit there is a safety feature that prevents the indoor fan from shutting down while the outdoor unit is running. If the indoor fan did shut down while the outdoor unit was running than you would slug your compressor. That is, your compressor normally sees refrigerant gas but is instead seeing refrigerant liquid. That would not be good since this scenario would destroy your compressor. It sounds like a faulty fan relay. The actual contactor portion of the relay is in the outdoor unit.

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1 Answer

A/c won't stop running and no cool air


There seems to be a problem with the wiring of the thermostat. Apparently the thermostat is calling for cool (if wired properly), but is not being satisfied. The thermostat is just a switch. When there's a call for cool, the thermostat sends 24-28 volts to the contactor (inside the condensing unit to start the compressor and outdoor fan). The indoor fan is energized through the fan relay (inside the air handler). When the temperature in the conditioned space reaches the set temperature,then the thermostat cuts the power to the contactor and it stops the compressor and outdoor fan. Check that the compressor is actually running, if not, check for 24-28 volts on the wires feeding the contactor, if there is, and the contactor isn't closing then the contactor is defective. If the contactor closes and the compressor doesn't come on, check the capacitor. If the capacitor is good then check your compressor motor. I suspect you have an improperly wired thermostat

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I have a 5 ton goodmsn heat pump it only blows cold air the heat doesnt come on have a new heat strip in it but still blows cod air


Heat pumps require a reversing valve for heat operation on the outdoor section, a control signal to a "O" terminal or orange wire is required for heating and cooling depending on the thermostat and out door unit requirements. The thermostat also has to be heat pump type for the system to operate heat for electric system with heat strip, two stage electric heating.

Jan 31, 2011 | Goodman CKL60AR60 Air Conditioner

1 Answer

I HAVE A HONEYWELL RTH2310 THERMOSTAT WE JUST PUT IN AND FOR SOME REASON MY HOUSE NEVER GETS COOL. THE THERMOSTAT NEVER GOES BELOW 79. IT SEEMS LIKE ITS JUST BLOWING OUT AIR.


Recheck the wires to make sure that you are calling the outdoor unit to cool! Wires that call for cooling are R to Y and R to G calls indoor fan on! This usually happens at the same time in the thermostat when call for cooling is tripped, Green wire turn signal to indoor fan on and Yellow wire fire 24v to the contactor oudoors to the compressor and outdoor fan. Check all wires for contact an breaks.

Aug 22, 2010 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

Outside unit wont go on ( central air conditioner)


Hi, yes when you hold down the contactor with a screw driver it will send high voltage to the unit and start up. What is happening is, on the lower sides of the contactor will be a 24volt coil, a wire to each side. You are not getting voltage to this coil for it to close the contactor on its own. If this system is central air with gas heat, you will have 2- small thermostat wires that tie to the 2- wires on the contactor coil. If its not gas fired, it will be a heat-pump with several wires coming from the indoor unit and thermostat. Either way, the 2 wires you need to worry about is the red and white or red and yellow for cooling coming out and connecting to the coil of the contactor, probably a blue and brown wire to each side. These are what closes the contacts on this. By using your finger it tells me you have high voltage there, that's good. If the indoor unit is running, the problem is either in the thermostat or the wires that come back from the outdoor unit to the indoor unit are not getting 24 volts. So, if the indoor unit runs, that tells me the transformer is good. Check the thermostat wire at the outdoor unit real well to see if it may have a break in the wires. If it looks good, go to the indoor unit and remove the control panel. There may be a panel switch on it that kills power to the indoor unit when removed and you may need to tape it down while you check things out. Just have it running when you pull the panel and if all stops, you will no.If it has a circuit board, look for a auto type plug in fuse 3 to 5 amp that may have blown. If you had a meter you could check the terminals at the 2 wires that head outside to start the unit for 24volts. If all looks good there, no broken or loose wires, go to the thermostat and remove the cover to expose the wiring. If its not a heat-pump and gas fired, you will have these terminals, RC, RH, with a red jumper wire across them, a G green for fan, Y yellow for cooling and a W white for heat.To see if the thermostat is to blame, take a piece of insulated wire and touch and hold it to either of the Red terminals and the yellow terminal. Have someone outside to watch the outdoor unit. If the stat is at fault, the contactor will close on its own when you jump the 2 terminals out. Make sure the indoor panel is in place first. I am almost certain this will be your problem since the indoor unit runs. If its a heat-pump, you will have more terminals at the stat. Still jump across the Red which is 24 volts to Yellow which is cooling. If the outdoor unit starts, replace the stat! This will solve the problem. Its just a matter of finding why and where you have lost the 24volt control voltage to the contactor coil to energize it, pretty easy if you follow my steps. It has to either be a broken thermostat wire at the indoor/outdoor/ or thermostat, or thermostat is faulty not closing R to Y to bring on the outdoor unit. Please keep me posted as I would like to know the out come. I am confident you can find the problem now that you know it is a 24 volt control problem not energizing the contactor coil. I will be waiting to hear back from you.
Sincerely,
Shastalaker7

Jun 03, 2010 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

Does not cool


CHECK FREON LEVEL...IF GOOD CHECK FOR DISCONNECTED
THERMOSTAT OR COMPRESSOR OR CONTACTOR WIRE AT OUTDOOR UNIT WITH POWER OFF. CHECK FOR A BLOWN CAPACITOR OR UNIT GROUNDED OR BURNT WIRE. BAD BREAKER OR SEE IF OUTDOOR FAN COMES ON AND COMPRESSOR KICKS IN ( MAKES WHIRRING NOISE ) .

INSIDE CHECK BOARD FOR BLOWED FUSE, GROUNDED WIRE, MAKE SURE SYSTEM IS GETTING 24 VOLTS, IF NOT CHECK THERMOSTAT WIRES OR TRANSFORMER ON INDOOR UNIT.. IF YOU SET THERMOSTAT TO OFF AND ON AND THE INDOOR FAN COMES ON..YOUR GETTING 24 VOLTS.NOW YOU NARROWED TO THE BOARD OR LOOSE WIRE, FUSE OR THERMOSTAT. IF YOU TURN YOUR UNIT ON COOL AND AUTO AND THE INDOOR AND OUTDOOR FANS COME ON AND THE COMPRESSOR KICKS IN
BUT IS NOT COOLING...CHECK AND POSSIBLY ADD FREON...
ALSO CHECK AND MAKE SURE INDOOR BREAKER IS ON.

Apr 09, 2010 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

Instead of the heating element turning on the heat pump runs out side thermostate is not set on eheat


The heatpump is your 1st. stage heat, when you have a call for heat it will bring on the outdoor unit.
When the first stage heat can't heat the house and the indoor temperature drops 2° or 3° then 2nd. stage heat will kick in and maintain the house temperature at about 2° or 3° below the temperature setting.
If you outdoor unit fails or goes into defrost then emergency heat will kick in and keep the house at 2nd stage temperature approximately 2° or 3° below thermostat setting.
If you have an outdoor thermostat or balance point setting on outdoor board, it will shut the outdoor unit off at a certain set outdoor temperature and the 2nd stage heat will be primary heat for the house.

Jan 05, 2010 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

Honeywell Thermostat


Make sure G from indoor unit goes to G on thermostat for fan continous fan, if that doesn't work and you have 24 volts to R and C then the t'stat is bad.
For 2nd stage heat or aux.heat, on the indoor unit you need to make sure the wire W2 from the indoor unit goes to W2 on t'stat.
You don't need any wires from W1on the indoor unit to W1 at the t'stat because with a York heat pump Y1 is the contactor which turns the compressor on and you will get 1st stage heat, and for cooling the t'stat will also bring on O which is the (reversing valve) or cooling changeover relay for the cooling mode.
C = common usually black wire
R = hot usually red wire
Y or Y1 = contactor
W1 = 1st stage heat not needed for heat pump
W2 = Aux. heat indoor heat
G = fan
O = Cooling changeover relay
B = Heating changeover relay
L = System monitor
E = Emergency heat relay

Dec 23, 2008 | Honeywell Electronic Programmable...

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