The oven/broiler works sometimes preheat comes on as it should but no heat,
top burners no problems, cold start oven/broiler works fine, during cycling on/off heat stops comming on after 1 hour or so.
I'm thinking main valve solenode?
This oven has only one gas valve, that supplys the top burners that i never had a problem with.
The bottom oven burner with it's own ignitor, and the top broiler with it's own ignitor. so i can't see replacing both ignitors.Don't think both ignitor could stop working at the same time then work the next time we use the oven/broiler again with their own ignitor. I'll ohm out the temp sensor. but I never saw one work most of the time then stop working. And then start working again. any other pointers.
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Important---if you smell gas--I'd be very very careful---could be your control valve or lines to it are malfunctioning or leaking. You might have to call in an expert repair person. How old is the oven? Some preliminary checks you might make are: Do you have a pilot lite or preheaters on the unit? If a pilot lite, make sure it is lit. An unlit pilot lite could sometimes give the smell of gas if malfunctioning. If so, there is is a procedure for lighting the pilot lite--check your user or installation manual. If you have pre-heaters make sure they are lighting up. Normally you have one for the top broiler burner, and one for the bottom oven burner. Check your preheater(s) by selecting either broiler or oven and visually checking to see if they are warming up. After 15 seconds or so, they should be turning bright red. You will see some light coming from them. Check one pre-burner at a time. If they do not come on quickly, shut off the associated valve. Again, be very, very careful with any buildup of gas. It could cause an explosion. At the least it could make you sick.
This is what I would do: I would unplug the range and connect my test cord to your range cord. I use an ammeter along with my test cord to read the amp draw of the bake ignitor. If it cannot get above 3.5 amps I know the ignitor is bad or weak. Since the oven is working that means there is a good circuit. In order for the safety bi-metal to open the amp draw must reach 3.5 amps or better. So to me I am thinking bad ignitor. To get to it I remove the door oven racks and bottom, I then remove the flame spreader and unplug the quick connect to the ignitor. I remove the burner and ignitor and replace the ignitor on a work bench. I am too old to be bending over and trying to do any parts replacement inside an oven. LOL. I have a training film which shows how the silicone carbide ignitor works HERE. Post a model number and I may have a service manual, do not forget to rate the answer.
there is a eletric thermocouple at the bottem back of oven unplug the stove remove broiler draw to get access to this part remove small screw disconnect wire replace with new one to order part you will make modle s/n off data plate good iuck later
Have you checked for proper gas flow into the over or broiler? This is a gas valve back there that will sometimes go bad. Also there is a sensor near your knobs, it is a timer that will go bad, the valve is about 85 dollars and the timer is about 65 dollars