An expert who has achieved level 2 by getting 100 points
An expert that got 10 achievements.
An expert that got 5 achievements.
An expert whose answer got voted for 100 times.
Re: Oven not working
Find the bake ignitor (you may need to remove bottom drawer or oven cavity floor to get to the ignitor). Turn on the bake. If the bake ignitor comes on (starts glowing after a few seconds) - check the amperage on the bake ignitor wires when it's on. If the ignitor is a round style - amperage should be 2.5-3A, if the ignitor is rectangular - 3 - 3.6A. If less than 2.5A or 3A respectively - replace ignitor. If the ignitor does not come on - check the voltage on the ignitor, should be the line voltage 110-120v AC. If there is a line voltage on the ignitor and it's not coming on - replace. Ignitor part numbers for round style ones: 4342528, WB2X9154, SGR403, 5304401265; rectangular styles: 12400035, WB13K21, WB2X9998, SGR412, NR020, 5303935066, 814269, 9753108. Ignitors of the same shape (i.e. rectangular) are interchangeable, if you can splice the wires.
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Here is some wisdom for understanding F1 fault codes.
In some models, there are subcodes that make diagnosis even easier.
Here's a simple explanation of what's going on and how to troubleshoot:
The F1 code indicates that:
a. The electronic range control (ERC) is sensing heat in the oven when in a time-of-day (i.e., not cooking) mode.
b. The ERC is receiving information to run multiple heat functions simultaneously.
Although different components (depending upon the model) could generate the code, simple and straightforward testing using your ohm meter is all you gotta do to test for it.
1. Check the oven temperature sensor. The oven sensor has to be within spec or it will cause the F1 code. As an example of being out-of-spec, the ERC will generate an F1 fault code when the sensor shows 1650 ohms during a time-of-day mode. This is equivalent to 350°F in the oven. The resistance isn't high enough to generate an F2 code (runaway temp) or an F3 or F4 code (shorted/open sensor circuit). The ERC monitors the sensor circuit after a heat cycle and expects the resistance to drop back to 1050-1100 ohms. The fault code is generated when this doesn't happen. Checking the sensor circuit means also checking the harness, harness connections and the sensor itself.
2. If the oven sensor circuit checks okay, then turn your inquisitive eyeballs to the touchpad. If the range has a separate touchpad/keyboard, the keypad may have moisture that is shorting several circuits simultaneously. If the F1 code is given immediately (instead of during or after a heat cycle), remove the ribbon connector from the touchpad to the ERC after clearing the F1 code. If the F1 code does not return in five minutes, then cast a suspicious gaze upon the touchpad/keyboard. Shorts may be caused by using an ammonia-based glass cleaner. The touchpad surface will absorb ammonia-based cleaners that are sprayed directly on the glass surface. When heat is applied, the surface material can break down causing shorts. If you're gonna use ammonia-based cleaners on your control panel, then you should spray it on the rag and then wipe the touchpanel -don't spray directly onto the surface of the touchpad.
3. On Amana ranges with a rotary temperature dial, be sure that the knob is in the OFF position when performing tests.
4. If these tests all check good, then replace the ERC.
Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question. &^%$tr
Hi, When you put the oven on bake, can you see the ignitor glowing but get no flame? Sound like the ignitor might be getting weak and not opening the gas valve. Please let me know if this sounds like the problem. It is common for the ignitor to go bad. Even if it glows, it can be bad. Please let me know if I can assist you further.
Set the oven for bake. Wait a couple minutes and look in the oven. If you see a orange glow the ignitor is working, but, may need to be replaced.
If you see no orange glow the ignitor definitely needs to be replaced.
Sir, I think the top oelement is for broiling ONLY. It should not turn on when baking. The clicking may be the oven heating up.
How far apart were the oven temp instrument and the digital?
Don't expect them to match...they are inaccurate.
1. Heat water until it boils. Place digital therm in boiling water until it comes up to 212deg. If it is not at 212 in boiling water, record the error.(this gives a rough calibration to the digital)
2 Turn on oven, set to 350 deg, place digital therm on rack. Wait until oven reaches 350 (on stove) and read the digital. Note the difference between the two
sounds like a bad ignitor, sometimes lighting and not relighting during extended cooking time. dies it take longer than a minute to ignite gas? more then 10 in to preheat? smell gas while cookin?? all signs of a bad bake ignitor
MAYTAG Type "C" and "D" Clocks Range/Stove/Oven Fault Codes
Supervisory relay enable shorted (non-cook mode); sounds alarm and inhibits cook mode if alarm fault monitor is always active in non-cook mode, and requires removal of power until serviced.
Usually a bad touch pad or clock assembly (also called the ERC). Replace touchpad or ERC
Bake/broil/clean temp runaway alarm; sounds alarm and resets control to non-cook mode when bake/broil/clean temp exceeds programmed limits.
Usually means a stuck relay. Electric @ 525F (bake), 640F(broil), 900F(clean)
Gas @ 525F (bake), 640F(broil), 900F(clean)
Open temp oven temperature sensor; sounds alarm and inhibits cook mode
Replace oven temperature sensor
Shorted temp oven temperature sensor; sounds alarm and inhibits cook mode
Replace oven temperature sensor
Supervisory relay enable open (cook mode); sounds alarm and resets the control to non-cook mode
Replace electronic range control (ERC)
Missing a/c line cycle detector; displays code (no audible)
Unplug appliance for two minutes, should clear problem
Function key shorted; too hot at the clock assembly (also called the ERC) or shorted touch pad or clock assembly (also called the ERC)
Replace touchpad or ERC
Analog/Digital supervisory; sounds alarm to non-cook mode
Door latch supervisory (door latched)
Unlock door and check switches or clock assembly (also called the ERC)
Cancel key supervision
Requires the removal of power until serviced. See qualified technician