Cold water suply filling up header tank in loft thru hot water suply on shower.
Have just installed a new power shower with shower pump, A trevi 45 twin pump. Now have this problem with the cold water suply filling up the header tank in the loft thru the hot water suply pushing all the hot water thru the tank into the header tank in the loft out the over flow into the road. This only hapens when the shower is not switched on. Can you help please is it the pump or the mixer tap on the shower at fault.
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Re: cold water suply filling up header tank in loft thru...
Hi did you run a seperate cold water supply from the storage tank to the shower pump & also a seperate hot supply from the hot water cylinder, it sounds as though the cold water is crossing into the hot service & pushing its way up to the tank as its the only way it can go, sounds as though the cold water connection to the shower is not tank fed & possibly directly off the water main.?
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It *may* not be a problem with the water heater itself necessarily. When you say "keep adjusting the water temperature when you're taking a shower" I presume you're talking about turning the shower hot/cold knob(s) and not the temp thermostat on the water heater itself.
If so, when it starts to run colder, turn the knob all the way to full hot. Is the water then very hot? If so, the water heater is working fine & doing its job, and the problem is likely to be in the shower faucet mixing valve itself. Sometimes a faulty one will expand the inner seals/cartridge as hot water flows thru it, and starts to (wrongly) restrict the hot water flow, thus causing the constant need to "turn the dial up a notch".
No idea here this is not a car question and iam not a plumber but i did have a emersion heater years ago and the cold feed from a header tank in the loft went into the heater and their was two feeds one from the tank and one direct from the mains with a special non return valve in the main line feed --why it didnt just fill from the header tank i have no idea but from that i would say the feed for your heater would be much the same with a header tank in case the inlet supply froze up ? Sorry iam a car mechanic so i have no idea but the return inlet pipe would be my logical choice
First of all, the normal water pressure is anywhere from 50 to 70 lbs. Why do you need a pump? What you need is just water pressure. The shower head will only put out a fraction of that pressure with the valve body inside the head. Since you do not say what water pressure you have, check all the pressure lines to make sure there is no blockage. As for the water tank, well, 50 gallons is always better.
The vent pipe should be in front of the pump so that the pump pushes towards the vent pipe NOT sucks from it. I hope this vent pipe is part of the heating system and not of the hot water Pumps like to push not pull and therefore it is better if the pump is located further down - say at the bottom of the cylinder or lower. With an indirect cylinder, the hot water & heating are separate circuits and are not and must not be interconnected. You will need a separate pump for the hot water which should be taken from the hot pipe coming out of the cylinder. You may get vacuation in the cylinder - then you will need an Essex or similar valve to replace the hot water outlet connection By the way - The pressure at any hot tap is directly related to the height difference between the tap and the header tank in the loft [thus a shower downstairs feels stronger than one upstairs] email@example.com
I think some one mis informed you, the normal temp on any water heater from the factory is 120, it should not go above that for reasons of sevear burns, as far as it't smart part it's just a name, you will lose a couple of degrees just comming torm the tank to the faucets, the water heater will allways keep the temp in the tank at what ever it is set at, it doesn't have the brains or computer to know what time of day it is but when the cold water comes in to the tank it comes thru a dip tube that goes to aprox 1 inch from the bottom of the tank, if you take a long shower and do not have a energy efficant shower head you can use up to 5 gals, per min of hot water where an energy efficant one only uses 2.5 or less and still has the same pressure at the shower head, the temp in your water heater tries to stay at the setting it is at depending on how much is used at one time meaning washing machine, filling tub or dishwasher at the same time, it lets more cold in as the hot goes out and as you know it can only heat up so much at a time and the cold water is just going across the bottom of the tank, so the name is just that no diffrent then any other water heater unless you went to a tankless water heater.
is there one or two,, turn off power drain it down, use the water heater element wrench remove the wires and the element, install new element snug it tight, start filling the water heater while it is filling reinstall the wires, turn on a hot side faucet only let the air out, wait till you have a full flow of water out of the faucet then turn the power back on to the unit, the thermostat should beat 120 degrees,