Question about Thomson Televison & Video
I have recently moved my Thompson Scenium and now when I try to power on the Tv I start get sound but the screen is black with a purple flickering or strobing light.
If I leave the screen to flicker, after a few minutes i get the tv screen back and the set works fine until i turn off the power, at which point it happens again. I have had the set for a few years and never had any problems with it until this point.
Can anyone ofer any advise on how I can fix this? Or let me know if I have to live with it, or perhaps get someone in who can repair it?
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
8/25/07 Coincidentally, I have just run into the same problem. I spoke with Technical Service at Samsung yesterday and after 15 minutes on the phone they couldn't tell me what was causing it. I then did numerous web searches and came across a sight where technical experts discuss problems. Turns out it may be a problem with the Digital board, the A/V Board or the DMD board. Cost for repair (depending on which board it is) will run $400 - $1,000 or more. Repair man is coming out Monday to diagnose the set.
Posted on Aug 25, 2007
I had the same problem with the flicker. Mine was a Flicker followed by a greenish line through the screen. It got worse then after 2 months the tv stoped working the power didnt come on at all. I Im taking it to bget fixed. The guy said it has somthing to do with a burnt out switch in the unit.
Posted on Oct 20, 2007
This is no easy fix problem you need to take set to repair shop, this is a lot of problems with these sets cold solder ,poor connections,bad deflection boards, tuner boards, bad ribbon connectors etc etc ect......BAD Flyback Transformers.Normaly id say your hori out put was shorted but on these sets anything can happen. ThankYou for using FixYa. Have a NIce Day.
Posted on Feb 08, 2008
SOURCE: Flickering blue picture
I finally got around to dismantling the TV. This is no mean task. The chassis is tethered to the rest of the set my over a dozen wiring harnesses and a few of these cannot be disconnected near the chassis but instead require removing the “right support” near the air duct and taking the shield off the lamp ballast. Once the chassis assembly is out, it is a further significant task to disassemble it to get at the various PWBs (POWER, FMT and DM) having the suspect caps. I’m sure reassembling everything will be a fun job!
I have not yet had a chance to fix and reassemble but I wanted to post this no as I’m not sure when I will get around to it.
I did find six of the fourteen known-problem caps to be visibly bulging -- both 3300s and two of the four 1000s on the PWR PWB plus two of the four 1000s on the FMT PWB (see photos below). Ironically of the four 1000s on the DM PWB, which I have heard are the most common to go bad, were bulging and I considered skipping these as the DM it is the toughest board to extricate from the chassis, however I figured I had come this far and I would just as soon replace all twelve 1000 uFs as the parts cost $0.23 and I really never want to have to do this again.
If I had to bet, the two 10V 3300uF caps on POWER board, which were actually leaking black goo, are the actual culprits, but with four of the 1000 uFs also bulging it is probable only a matter of time until they failed as well.
Here is the POWER PWB with the known-problem caps (C9A37, C9A38, C9A51, C9A52, C9A61 and C9A62) highlighted:
here's the FMT PWB with the known-problem caps (C8F19, C8F21, C8F22 and C8F27) highlighted:
and the DM PWB with the known-problem caps (C81A2, C81A3, C81B3 and C81B4) highlighted:
Here are close-ups of the bulging caps (C9A37, C9A38, C9A52 and C9A62) on the POWER PWB:
And here are close-ups of the bulging caps (C8F19 and C8F27) on the FMT PWB:
Posted on Feb 16, 2008
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