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I have a similar amp with the same problems, I was able to repair mine but after 1 week of problem free use it started to go into protect mode. I haven't had time to trouble shoot it again but I can tell you from experience that Audiobahn has a serious problem with making proper solder joints and this can cause any number of problems without showing of having any damaged components. Re-soldering every joint is the 1st thing I would do, also check that long RCA wire connection that runs from front to back and has 3 wires that plug onto the board. Make sure that those pins are still soldered in place and not touching the case and grounding out, Mine had 2 pins that were loose and had fallen down against the case along with every solder joint looking like it was not making contact fully. Get yourself a good soldering iron with a super thin tip and the finest thinnest solder you can find to tackle this job. You're looking at $40 for tools and 3 or more hours to do it but it still may not solve the problem. There may be burned out parts also. Either way you need to remove the board from the case.
The amp is going into protection mode because one or more of the output transistors is fried inside. You want to check for resistance on all the outputs. I repair these everday. Either have it repaired or do it yourself. I buy broken amps and I also repair them. Let me know if you want to sell or repair or want instructions on how to repair it.
Hi, the amp is going into protect mode. You can either keep it turned down or possibly reconfigure the speaker connections for a higher impedance. If you tell be the model of your sub, I may be able to suggest a better arrangement.
There is a manual here if you don't have one: http://manual.kenwood.com/en_contents/attachDownload/6017/
try testing the amp without speakers plugged in. Run the sub preamp out to the amp that you will drive the subs with, but don't wire up the subs yet. Test for protect mode kicking in. Yes - unplug the rca ins from the amp. retest. No - Problem lies within the sub wiring. What is the load on the amp (measure with an ohm meter)? If it is below 4ohms, chances are the amp can't dip that low. Give it more resistance by wiring it differently (series vs. parallel)
You have a short circuit. I don`t know this particular piece of equipment but you should check all the output transistors/chips. Try disconnecting ALL the supplies to ALL the output devices and switch on, It should fire up, If it does, reconnect the positive AND negative supplies to one channel. If it still fires up, reconnect the next channel until you find the faulty channel then you could try doing comparison checks between the bad channel one of the good ones. These amps tend to use MOSFETS and are extremely intolerant to bad or loose connections. I hope this helps. You`ll probably find that you`ve got poor wiring, That will be your original fault. Ensure you make ALL connections good and sound before reconnecting the amp up with new devices in or you WILL be back at square one with no amp again. Ian
1. Your key, when turned to lock or unlock in the driver's door key cylinder and held there, will roll the windows/sunroof up or down respectively,
2. The transmitter on your car locks and unlocks the doors just fine.
3. You know where the valet switch for your alarm is located.
Program as follows:
Open the door and leave it open until you've finished programming. Turn the ignition on and off. Push the Valet switch and release it 10 times, and push it an 11th time making sure to hold it in. You should see 10 flashes on the status LED, 10 siren chirps, or both. This tells you that you are in option 10, which is the comfort closure feature.
At this point push the unlock button on the transmitter. That will change the comfort closure setting to "on". Once the unlock button is pushed the LED should stop flashing. At this point it is programmed and you can turn the ignition on again.