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Heating element went out. we have replaced it but want to make sure we wired it correctly before turning stove on.

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YOU CAN TRY TO CHECK THE CONNECTION TO THE ELEMENT ITSELF I HAVE FOUND THAT SOMETIMES THE W IRES CAN GET FRAYED AND BREAK LEAVING ONLY A FEW STRANDS ENOUGH TO LET ELEMENT PROOF ITSELF BUT THE RESISTANCE GETS TO HIGH TO ACTUALLY WORK PROPERLY

Posted on Oct 05, 2008

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220 stove has nothing hooked up to the neutral


TURN OFF POWER TO THE STOVE OR UNPLUG IT IMMEDIATELY BEFORE TOUCHING **ANYTHING**. I need the make/model of your unit to help you accurately. HOWEVER, the first thing you need to do is(and this applies if I'm interpreting you correctly)replace the power cord--it will be connected to the terminal block--on the vast majority of ovens, you have a left-hand terminal, generally known as L1(a power wire), a center terminal(*normally* the neutral connection), and then the right-hand terminal, generally known as L2(2nd hot supply wire). Take a picture of the AC outlet so you can purchase the correct power cable for your stove. Also, take a picture of the terminal block in the rear of the stove just to make sure. I'm assuming that the wires are all connected in the stove but the neutral wire is either broken or missing from the power cord. Due to how most ovens operate, THIS IS A VERY DANGEROUS CONDITION. When the unit is plugged in, even though the oven is off, there is still 120v applied to the heating elements. When you turn on the oven, instead of being connected to a ground, the other side of the heating elements are simply connected to 120v from the other side of the panel, adding up to 240v and the elements heat up. I hope this helps you!

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1 Answer

I replaced the bake element but it will not heat


Have you checked the oven fuse, there should be one on the stove. To check the element power, remove the element from the back where its attached to the stove Remove the element from the wires (Skip this step if you are absolutely sure the element is not working). Attach your meter clips to the 2 wires (meter set set to at least 250Vac), place a piece of cardboard under the screws and meter clips to isolate them from touching any metal parts of the oven. Turn the meter on, set the oven thermostat to 350, you should have at least 220Vac, if you do the power is fine. Test element for continuity, and for a possible short.

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1 Answer

No problem with hotpoint electric range til I went to start oven, breaker kept tripping & making a popping noise


From having a Hotpoint myself, I can think of 2 possibilities.
Obvious answer would be electrical problem. If it trips the breaker you probably have a loose wire or a bad plugin socket. Did you buy a new "pigtail" plugin socket or did you use an old one when you got the stove? They say to buy a new one each time. If this is your first problem with this then your circuit can probably handle the load but see if the circuit that tripped says 30 or 40 amps. Also check to see if anything else is on that circuit besides your stove. There shouldn't be anything else on circuit. You may even have a bad circuit breaker but that seems less likely.

Second possibility is a bad baking element at the bottom of stove or bad heating element on top. When mine went bad, it made loud popping noises and sparks were flying. After that, the rest of the stove worked but not the baking element. I had to replace it for about $50.

My bet is on a loose wire. Be careful and unplug everything before you check! See if it's not fully plugged into the socket and see if the 3 or 4 wires coming from the thick plug wire are all tightly connected to your stove.

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1 Answer

My stove poped and went off. I tripped the breaker and now the oven will not heat. Neither the top or bottom unit.


First I would look at the heating element in the oven and make sure it is all in one piece. there are usually one on the bottom and one on top. sometimes they will burn apart and short out to stove. if they look ok then do a quick check, I would turn off all knob on the stove top and oven. then try to reset the breaker. hopefully it resets ok. then turn on one at a time and see which burner or oven element has a short. when you find the bad burner or stove element it will trip the breaker again.
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2 Answers

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Your breaker in the breaker box has a double pole breaker for the stove one breaker is shot so you still have 120volts which runs the lights 240volts for the elements.Turn main power off and replace the breaker. To verify for sure pull the stove out and unplug it check power at the plug you need 240volts at the plug. If i dont have a plug and wired straight in disconnect the wires and check the wires.

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Go to your electric circuit panel. Locate the breaker for the stove. Turn it all the way OFF then back ON. This should correct your problem.

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1 Answer

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An Easy Task.  Unplug stove. Remove old element by disconnecting the wires. Purchase new element and install. Plug stove back in.

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1 Answer

I want to replace an erratic element on a really old Viking stove. The new element plugs into a new recepticle,but the latter has 2 wires, whereas the old stove has 4 wires that were connected directly...


This can't be done. The old elements were a two part element with 2 seperate coils. The heat was controlled by using one or both elements at different voltages to select the heat output. The new 2 wire element just pulses the current on and off to control heat. It is just one big element. Try to purchase a generic replacement burner that will fit the hole. Usually these come with the chrome ring and everything. They are somewhat adjustable but will not match your existing burners. GE used to make this. Another possibility is if the control to the burner is a knob that turns, Replace the switch with a new infinate heat switch. If this switch will mount properly. Just grab the two 220 volt legs from the old switch, Ignore and tape the neutral, ground, and pilot leads. Connect to the line side of the switch. Use only 2 of the old wires going to the burner and connect them to the new one.

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2 Answers

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1 Answer

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