Spartan chassis gulfstream wiring schematic

Fixed Problem (it was my van) no power to ignition wire at starter. Replaced Ignition lock cylinder. just worn down. (Delivery van 50-60 starts a day). 160k miles.

call gulfstream

If it's an automatic check fuse #15 wether it's a stick or automatic you should have power at the red & black wire coming out of your ignition switch when you turn key to start postion and power at the red wire going into switch at all times. if no power coming oit on the red/black wire you need an ignition switch. if there is power coming out of switch try putting car in nuetral (for auto trans). if still nothing you'll need to check for power at small wire going to starter when key is turned to start. if has power then need starter if no power you'll need to check starter interlock relay.

Pit a nw key switch on it. First make sure the switch is on tight. Pushing it hard would indicate a bad grounf

Envoy ignition switches are known for having intermittent problems and causing strange indications in the truck. Have the ignition switch changed and I'm pretty sure your problems will be solved.

So it's a no crank condition? Do dash lights, gauges, and everything else work when the car won't crank over? If so, buy a cheap $5.00 testlight, and when the car won't crank, pull the small black wire off the starter solenoid. While someone holds the key in start (cranking) position and clutch pedal depressed, see if the black wire has power as it should. (Ground the testlight and just touch the wire's end terminal. If powered, the testlight will light up.) If power there, then the starter solenoid is failing. Toyota starters are very good units, but the solenoid's internal contacts get old and pitted.
If no power at the black wire, then the start circuit from ignition switch to clutch safety switch (on the clutch pedal) to starter relay to starter solenoid will have to be diagnosed. To double-check: take a single battery jumper cable and put it on the positive battery post connection. Put the other end of the jumper cable on the solenoid terminal where black wire was removed. Key can be off. Make sure car is in neutral, brake set. If starter now operates, solenoid is O.K., and it is a problem in the start circuit, -ignition switch, neutral start switch, or in the wiring.
Now find a grounding place for testlight under the dash. When car won't crank, check for power coming out of ignition switch on the black wire with white stripe. This is the start wire for the starter solenoid. Key must be in crank position. Wire shoud be powered-ignition switch is working. If no power, switch is failing. You can do the same for the clutch start switch-it's a simple switch, that when clutch is depressed switch is closed and passes power on from ignition switch to the starter relay (thus allowing power to the starter solenoid). Black wire, red stripe-this is wire from clutch switch to starter relay. When key is in crank, clutch depressed, this wire should be hot.
With me so far? Still haven't found a problem, or any loose connections? Next and last is the starter relay. It is located under dash, close to gas pedal, but under the center console, just forward and left of gear shifter. It can be tested and the wiring diagnosed there, but relays are cheap, so just swap in another and see if that helps.
If you have tried everything, and still no help, you could try a new wire from the relay to the starter solenoid. This is that black wire we started with. Older toyotas sometimes have a problem with degraded wiring not passing enough current to operate the starter

Is the security light on or blinking?If not then do you have power to the starter.You can check this with a test light.You should have power when you turn the key to start.The test light should light up.Should be the small wire.I believe it is purple in color.If the security light is on then you will have to get the codes to see what is causing the no start.Hope this helps.Good luck.

This indicator light is related to the vehicle security system, which checks that the key you are using is authentic. If it is flashing, you have a key with no chip in it, a bad ring antenna, or other fault in the security system.
Instructions

1. • 1Turn the ignition switch off.
     
   • 2Insert the key into the driver's side door.
     
   • 3Turn the key clockwise to lock it.
     
   • 4Turn the key counterclockwise to unlock it. The alarm system recognizes an authorized key was used and the system resets.
     As a side note if that doesnt work try it in the rear hatch. good luck hope this helped.
     

I need a wiring diagram for a 2006 ford truck chassis, triton v10, carrying a hurricane motor home. Lost all power through generator system, no a/c, no microwave, etc.