GE Selext TFX22GR Not cold enough, already changed timer, heaters plus
Hi, I have a TFX22GR by GE, it has been a very good unit all of these years. Anyway, recently it stopped keeping things cold enough.
I decided to learn to fix this myself. So being the freezer was cold enough, but refri is not. I have put a thermostat inside to check it. So I changed the Defrost timer (did not advance), the two heating elements (one was completely burned out) and the little button guy (I think it is a relay?). The parts are generic and not original (I am not in the USA). But I was assured these were correct parts. Anyway, after I turn on the unit it seems fine. It works great for 10 days, in fact it is alot colder than it should be, I set it to #3 in the refrigerator and it is definetly cold enough. But after 10 days, the next 5 days (15 days it has been on) it is ok, it has to be on #5 like it is supposed to be....then the next 5 days it starts getting poorer and poorer...it is not cold enough, there is now ice on the back panel in the freezer, uncover the panel, it is basically a snowball. I checked the fans, they are both working, the one in the freezer and the one in the back.
What might it be? What can I do to get it workin properly. The compressor is hot, you can touch it, but not a long time. But I understand this is normal.
Thanks for any help! I am pretty stubborn! hehe
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Re: GE Selext TFX22GR Not cold enough, already changed...
Hello beadaholic, Welcome,
You said, you have a TFX22GR by GE, it has been a very good unit all of these
years. Anyway, recently it stopped keeping things cold enough.
Thanks for any help! I am pretty stubborn! hehe
I wish I only could have told you this earlier on!
Laura, I feel you spent to much money on this very old and inefficient fridge. I would love to help you repair it! But I would be doing you a disservice if I advised you to put even one penny more in to your fridge. A new fridge would pay for it self in only a few years. They are so much more efficient today!
Do not put anymore good money into bad. Here is an article I just read that you will find interesting and to the point.
Repair or replace?
When to pull the plug on your old refrigerator
It nearly always makes sense to undertake simple do-it-yourself repairs, such as replacing a gasket on a refrigerator or a freezer.
Typically, you'll also find a troubleshooting section for more-serious problems in the owner's manual.
Should you pay for a repair or buy a new model? The answer depends mostly on the age of your refrigerator, how much you bought it for,and the cost of the repair.
Follow these guidelines:
When a repair makes sense.
If your refrigerator is under warranty or less than four years old (three years for top-freezers), paying for a repair makes sense. Note that refrigerators under warranty might require service from a factory-authorized technician; readers have found them on a par with independent repairers.
When a repair might be a wise choice.
If your refrigerator is out of warranty and is four to seven years old, it might make sense to pay for a repair. Customers generally pay $100 to $200 for a repair. But you might want to buy a new model even at this stage, given that today's models are quieter and have added features. Higher energy efficiency is another plus: Energy Star-qualified models made after April 28, 2008, are 43 percent more efficient than conventional models built before 2001 and 56 percent more efficient than those built before 1993.
When it pays to replace.
The repair costs more than half the price of a comparable new refrigerator. Data also shows that it doesn't pay to fix a less-expensive top-freezer refrigerator six or more years old or a bottom-freezer or side-by-side eight or more years old.
Thanks to better recycling programs, less than 10 percent of a refrigerator you replace is likely to end up in a landfill.
Please remember to enter a rating before you sign off! God Bless, &Thank You, HUUUM
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More likely a defrost heater. Look inside the freezer at the back wall. Any frost there? If so, turn off refrig., unload freezer, take back panel off inside freezer, and use a hair dryer to melt off the frost. Replace the defrost heater located at the bottom of the frosted coils. (New heater may appear different than original, but instructions are included) If you don't have the defrost heater on hand, just manually defrosting the coils and re-starting the refrig will get is cooling again for at least a week before problem will re-occur. (this give you enough time to get the replacement part)
How to check
If the evaporator coils behind the back panel of the freezer
are icing up because of auto defrost failure that will stop the circulation of
cold air and eventually affect the freezer too.
check defrost timer, defrost heater, defrost thermostat. In
most newer models the timer has been replaced by an electronic control board.
If the heater and thermostat are ok it’ll be the control.
You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks
and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace
the timer. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the
timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.
First of all you need to clean the coils (condenser coils under the unit or evaporator coils inside the freezer). The coils inside could be iced over because of failure of defrost system. Now check that the condenser fan under the fridge is working properly. Check that the fan in the freezer work which pulls cold air from the coils inside freezer and blows it to the fridge side. Are the temperature control knobs in the fridge adjusted correctly? It actually just opens a vent to let more or less cold air in from the freezer. It takes a while for the ice to build up in the freezer enough to affect the cooling.
My first guess would be the defrost timer. You can manually turn it to engage the defrost cycle and observe whether or not the defrost heaters come on. Now use a hair dryer to speed up melting the ice when there is lots of ice buildup. Most timers are 24 hour timers. It will turn the defroster on every 6 or maybe 12 hours depending on the model.
Before testing the defrost heater, unplug the refrigerator to avoid an electrical shock hazard.
The defrost heater is usually located at the back of a side by side freezer or under the floor of a top freezer. It will be necessary to remove obstructions such as the contents of the freezer, freezer shelves, icemaker and the inside rear or bottom panel of the freezer.
The heater is connected by two wires. The wires are connected with slip on connectors. Firmly pull the connectors off of the terminals (do not pull on the wire). You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If the connectors are corroded they should be replaced.
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ice build up means your refrigerator is not going through defrost cycle. you have ice build up on evaporator which restricts your cold air flow into the fresh food side. check defrost timer, defrost thermostat located on evaporator behind the wall where your getting frost. check defrost heater. it wraps under the evap.
First, defrost the unit fully. If there is ice in the air flow channels, it can't cool enough. Most cold air comes from the freezer area into the fridge by these channels. Why did you change the timer? Did you see if the heater element is continous and properly connected to the harness?
Did you clean out the condenser area? If dirty or clogged, you won't cool enough. Do that before anything else. Is the stat set properly?
If the gas level is low, you won't cool enough to run the fridge portion....and you will get icing. Check gas level: Unit off at least an hour. Start it and note the larger of the two pipes coming out of the compressor. It should get cold, frost and then either dry out or get droplets of water on it after at least 10-15 minutes. What happens sooner is unimportant. If it stays frosted, you'll likely need gas.
Hello ghilitho, what you are having is an issue with the defrost cycle. There are 3 parts to this, heater, thermosat,and timer. Sometimes on the newer units the timer is the electronic control. What you are seeing is after you defrost the unit, it works for a time, this is because the evap fan pushes the air thru the unit. With the evap coil froze solid, the cooling drops. You will need a ohm meter to check the heater and thermosat, the heater & thermosat should show to be closed. Also make sure if this unit has a over heat thermosat that it is closed. It may have open up. If all this is good, then the timer is the issue. Hope this helps