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Samsung DLP HLN507W color wheel sensor

Hello, my color wheel has been acting up, it doesnt always start when I power the TV up, I noticed the wires from the sensor module were fried badly, brittle etc, I suspect the sensor and wheel may have been damaged, at least I am hoping its not the DMD module

I replaced the sensor wires and stuck the wheel assembly in the freezer a few times, and it started about 6 times before it stopped agian on one attempt, the wheel itself sounds ok when it runs, it has 4 and 8 ohms across the ribbon cable at different spots so I am focusing on the sensor now

Those two square components on the sensor board what are those led diodes? does anyone know what they are maybe diodes and if so what type and rating? I am hoping I can find a match for them if thats the trouble, I just want to get the thing to run long enough to test the DMD module and Light Engine

Any info would be appreciated Thanks

Posted by on

  • erikinfenix Oct 29, 2008

    My sensor seems to be fried as well. My tv freezes with an negative black and white image. I am hoping that the sensor is the culprit. Right now I am waiting for a phone call from samsung for they are trying to locate which sensor I am looking to replace. Is this thing easy to find at a local electronic store?

  • Yohon Nov 09, 2008

    The fact that my colorwheel didnt always start afterall was not the wheel or sensor, it was scrammed logic due to shutdowns caused by an Osram replacement lamp that was either bad or incompatible with this 5 year old set

    I think the switching power supply was also messed up from the hundreds of starting atemtps I had made trying to figure this out

    After I installed a Phillips OEM lamp it started working eventually after the logic and power supply stabilized

    another thread with good info Samsung DLP problems



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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 74 Answers


BP96-00249A $937 at i hope that isnt the problem

Posted on Sep 22, 2008


SOURCE: Proscan PS60690

First of all I take it that your TV is a PS60690 model. Unplug the TV and let it sit for a few days because there is approximately 3,300 volts at the splitter. You’ll have to remove the front lower panel. It is held in by clips around the top. I removed it by hand. Once you get your fingers to pull it away a bit the clips should release and then you can just lift the piece up and out of your way. Next you will have to remove the convergence panel in the center. Remove the bolts that hold it in and un clip the four wire connectors (2 on each side) and set the panel to the side. The splitter is now visible by looking into the hole and up to the left. It is held in by 2 bolts one in the front of the splitter and one in the back of it. Don’t remove it until you have all of the wires removed. Remember to be very careful here because of the potential voltages. The voltage should bleed themselves off over time but might not! I used my electrical meter to test for voltage before I touched any bare wire. What I did was remove the wire with the red grommet that holds it up into the splitter. There are 3 green grommets and a black grommet. They might be hard to see the colors because of the dust …. Just wipe them off. The red one is the one on the far left of the wires that are 4 in a row. I used a screwdriver from the front and lightly pushed the retaining clip towards the back of the TV while gently pulling the wire downwards. Watch out for the little bushing that is around the wire. Try not to lose them because you will need them to put the splitter back together. Now I took the red lead from my tester and touched it to the exposed wire end that I just removed and touched the black lead to the metal part of the TV chassis where the splitter is actually mounted. Once you’ve established that there is no voltage present, label all of the rest of the wires so that they will be put back in the right places when you are ready. Test each wire the same way before touching them. Remember to be careful and capture all of the little bushings You will need the splitter before you do this so you will have to buy it. The RCA part number is 205064. I have to run right now but I will send you any info that you might need ……. Just ask …… I don’t mind helping out if I can. There is more.

Posted on Oct 06, 2008

  • 10594 Answers

SOURCE: Please help!!! Problem with JVC DLP TV

How old is your TV?
Lamps in DLP TV has specific working hours and physically lamp will look good but won't give light ( actually consume more current and protection circuit stops power supply)
Thank you.

Posted on Dec 05, 2008

  • 1694 Answers

SOURCE: Samsung HLP 4663W DLP TV 3 lights blinking

Color wheel is the biggest failure part in Samsung DLP...
A little technical to replace...............T.

Posted on Jan 24, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: DMD Board failure on Samsung DLP

Try here:

Posted on Feb 02, 2009

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