Question about Projection Televisions
Hello, my color wheel has been acting up, it doesnt always start when I power the TV up, I noticed the wires from the sensor module were fried badly, brittle etc, I suspect the sensor and wheel may have been damaged, at least I am hoping its not the DMD module
I replaced the sensor wires and stuck the wheel assembly in the freezer a few times, and it started about 6 times before it stopped agian on one attempt, the wheel itself sounds ok when it runs, it has 4 and 8 ohms across the ribbon cable at different spots so I am focusing on the sensor now
Those two square components on the sensor board what are those led diodes? does anyone know what they are maybe diodes and if so what type and rating? I am hoping I can find a match for them if thats the trouble, I just want to get the thing to run long enough to test the DMD module and Light Engine
Any info would be appreciated Thanks
SOURCE: Proscan PS60690
First of all I take it that your TV is a PS60690 model. Unplug the TV and let it sit for a few days because there is approximately 3,300 volts at the splitter. You’ll have to remove the front lower panel. It is held in by clips around the top. I removed it by hand. Once you get your fingers to pull it away a bit the clips should release and then you can just lift the piece up and out of your way. Next you will have to remove the convergence panel in the center. Remove the bolts that hold it in and un clip the four wire connectors (2 on each side) and set the panel to the side. The splitter is now visible by looking into the hole and up to the left. It is held in by 2 bolts one in the front of the splitter and one in the back of it. Don’t remove it until you have all of the wires removed. Remember to be very careful here because of the potential voltages. The voltage should bleed themselves off over time but might not! I used my electrical meter to test for voltage before I touched any bare wire. What I did was remove the wire with the red grommet that holds it up into the splitter. There are 3 green grommets and a black grommet. They might be hard to see the colors because of the dust …. Just wipe them off. The red one is the one on the far left of the wires that are 4 in a row. I used a screwdriver from the front and lightly pushed the retaining clip towards the back of the TV while gently pulling the wire downwards. Watch out for the little bushing that is around the wire. Try not to lose them because you will need them to put the splitter back together. Now I took the red lead from my tester and touched it to the exposed wire end that I just removed and touched the black lead to the metal part of the TV chassis where the splitter is actually mounted. Once you’ve established that there is no voltage present, label all of the rest of the wires so that they will be put back in the right places when you are ready. Test each wire the same way before touching them. Remember to be careful and capture all of the little bushings You will need the splitter before you do this so you will have to buy it. The RCA part number is 205064. I have to run right now but I will send you any info that you might need ……. Just ask …… I don’t mind helping out if I can. There is more.
Posted on Oct 06, 2008
How old is your TV?
Lamps in DLP TV has specific working hours and physically lamp will look good but won't give light ( actually consume more current and protection circuit stops power supply)
Posted on Dec 05, 2008
SOURCE: DMD Board failure on Samsung DLP
Posted on Feb 02, 2009
There should be a jumper somewhere around the color wheel. I am having a problem with my color wheel, and after doing a lot of research I found that people that have the same problem as you changed the jumper setting. Try looking it up here on the net. Should solve your problem.
Posted on May 24, 2009
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