Question about Dryers

1 Answer

Hi, I have a electric LG DLE2516W dryer, that runs, but does not heat, here's what i've been able to determine: 1. verified ac 240vac to terminal back of dryer 2. vent clear, blowing only cold air 3. heater element resistance reading red/blue=20 ohms, red/yellow=20 ohms, blue/yellow=40 ohms 4. HI-limit Thermostat open Before purchasing (item 3 & 4) wanted to ask the experts if my analysis seems on track. Thank you, Line Dry is rough

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  • ksw08 Oct 05, 2008

    Thanks for the quick response MNTECH, I'll change the three thermostat's and thermistor.


    I just got this dryer 2nd hand, it was sitting in storage for the past five months unused and was informed it was working prior to being stored, so not sure of the original setup.  I did notice that the part numbers and description you provided are different from what I thought based on the little wiring diagram pasted on the inside of the dryer and a replacement parts list I got from the web (see below) and just wanted to make sure I have the correct name/part number association.


    On Element Assembly
    HI-Limit Thermostat - 6931EL3003D (this is thermostat that is open, red wire from heater connected to one terminal, other terminal to Safety/Thermo thermostat)
    Safety/Thermo Cutoff Thermostat - 6931EL3001E  


    On Blower Assembly
    Thermistor - 6323EL2001B
    Blower/Outlet Thermostat - 6931EL3002A 


    Thanks again for you help

  • Anonymous Mar 19, 2014

    IT TURNS ON AND IT WORKS BUT ISTS NOT DRYING

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  • 1,543 Answers

Sure, looks like the high limit is your problem, but why did it fail? If your vent is good as you say, the dryer should cycle on the operating thermo (thermistor sensor in this case), and the high limit should never trip. I'd replace the 6323EL2001B thermistor too (back side of the blower housing), along with the 6931EL3003D and the 6931EL3001E which are mounted on the element assembly. Non heating issues can also be caused by a bad relay on the board or a bad centrifical switch in the motor.

Posted on Oct 05, 2008

  • Carl Schulzetenberg
    Carl Schulzetenberg Oct 05, 2008

    You are correct. I somehow only listed three items, missed the 6931EL3002A.

    If this was in storage as you say, you might want to look it over for any wires chewed on by mice also. (usually none to be found, but not unheard of)

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All these parts can be found at appliancepartspros.com, searspartsdirect.com, pcappliancerepair.com, or repairclinic.com. The average cost of these components varies, so shop around for the best price.

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1 Answer

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If you determine the problem to be internal, the heating circuits will either be located in the rear of the dryer on the right hand, or under the dryer drum on the right hand side. Usually, an easy way to determine is by the location of the lint screen filter. If the filter is on top of the dryer, the heating circuits are in the back of the dryer. If the lint screen is in the door, the heating circuits are located under the dryer drum.

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If the voltage IS correct, leave the dryer unplugged and remove the cover plate on the terminal block in the back of the dryer (this is where the power cord is installed). Plug the dryer back in and take a voltage reading across the two hot (RED and BLACK) wires at the terminal block. You should read 220-240VAC. If the voltage is good, you have an internal heating problem. If the voltage is bad at the terminal block, but good at the receptacle, you have a bad power cord.

NOTE: If the wires at the terminal block are not color coded, the outer two wires (left and right) are the hot leads. The center conductor is neutral or ground.

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First, begin by unplugging the dryer and verifying the voltage at the wall receptacle. You should read 220-240VAC across the two Hot terminals (left and right slots). If the voltage is incorrect, check to make sure you don't have a breaker tripped. Some homes use 2 separate 120VAC breakers to provide power to the receptacle vice using one 240VAC breaker.

If the voltage IS correct, leave the dryer unplugged and remove the cover plate on the terminal block in the back of the dryer (this is where the power cord is installed). Plug the dryer back in and take a voltage reading across the two hot (RED and BLACK) wires at the terminal block. You should read 220-240VAC. If the voltage is good, you have an internal heating problem. If the voltage is bad at the terminal block, but good at the receptacle, you have a bad power cord.

The reason a dryer will still run if the input voltage is incorrect, is because the drive motor only uses a portion of the 220 service. The motor runs off 110-120VAC, while the heating circuits require 220-240VAC. So, if you are missing 1/2 your input voltage due to a tripped breaker or bad power cord, your dryer will exhibit these symptoms.

If you determine the problem to be internal, the heating circuits will either be located in the rear of the washer on the right hand, or under the dryer drum on the right hand side. Usually, an easy way to determine is by the location of the lint screen filter. If the filter is on top of the dryer, the heating circuits are in the back of the dryer. If the lint screen is in the door, the heating circuits are located under the dryer drum.

All dryers are not constructed the same. However, generally, the Heating Element is located inside the heater box. The Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) will be located on the outside of the heater box on the end opposite the heating element terminals. The Hi-Limit Thermostat will be located adjacent to the heating element terminals. If either the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat are determined to be bad, replace both components at the same time. That is why these components are commonly sold as a set. Failure to do so may result in premature failure of any parts you replace. All these parts can be found at appliancepartspros.com, searspartsdirect.com, pcappliancerepair.com, or repairclinic.com. The average cost of these components varies, so shop around for the best price.

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If the voltage IS correct, leave the dryer unplugged and remove the cover plate on the terminal block in the back of the dryer (this is where the power cord is installed). Plug the dryer back in and take a voltage reading across the two hot (RED and BLACK) wires at the terminal block. You should read 220-240VAC. If the voltage is good, you have an internal heating problem. If the voltage is bad at the terminal block, but good at the receptacle, you have a bad power cord.

The reason a dryer will still run if the input voltage is incorrect, is because the drive motor only uses a portion of the 220 service. The motor runs off 110-120VAC, while the heating circuits require 220-240VAC. So, if you are missing 1/2 your input voltage due to a tripped breaker or bad power cord, your dryer will exhibit these symptoms.

If you determine the problem to be internal, the heating circuits will either be located in the rear of the washer on the right hand, or under the dryer drum on the right hand side. Usually, an easy way to determine is by the location of the lint screen filter. If the filter is on top of the dryer, the heating circuits are in the back of the dryer. If the lint screen is in the door, the heating circuits are located under the dryer drum. All Kenmore dryers are not constructed the the same. Regardles of location, the Heating Element is located inside the heater box. The Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) will be located on the outside of the heater box on the end opposite the heating element terminals. The Hi-Limit Thermostat will be located adjacent to the heating element terminals. If either the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat are determined to be bad, replace both components at the same time. That is why these components are commonly sold as a set. Failure to do so may result in premature failure of any parts you replace. All these parts can be found at appliancepartspros.com, searspartsdirect.com, pcappliancerepair.com, or repairclinic.com.

If you have any questions, please let me know. I hope you find this information helpful.

Aug 26, 2009 | Dryers

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