Kenmore Front load washer #417, basket assembly fell out
Rob Says: October 4th, 2008 at 10:39 pm
Complete basket/drum/motor assembly falls out of machine!!! Anyone else have this problem aside from the spider assembly corroding? I was at Sears this morning, then called service for problems with our Kenmore front loader Mdl#417-41142000. They told me they were unaware of any problems. Just found this site. The two springs that suspend the plastic tub cut through the eyelets on the tub, the oneside completely through. The tub/motor assembly fell to the bottom of the machine denting out the side of the washer. We had a sears repairman out a while ago and he told us 1,500.00 for repair. Also said any damage to the motor or electronics or anything else would be my responsibility, materials,labor. He was persistant upon getting my credit card number to start repairs. When he said he couldn’t troubleshoot any electronic damage until we paid to have a whole new tub assembly installed, only then could they check to see if the controls or motor had been damaged. I asked about worse case senario to repair, he told me over 2,000.00. I conveyed that this model was purchased for 849.00, a little over 2 years ago and now is selling for 549.00 new. I asked if there was any rational in spending 1,000 to 2,000 dollars to fix a machine that you could buy new for $549.00. And why Sears would not just replace the machine not to waste my or his time. He persued my credit card to start repairs and I told him to get out of my house. I have been looking for problems with this model and just found all the complaints, I couldn’t find complaints these last 2 years. An honest sears sales person at one of the hardward stores told me to go to corporate for complete replacement. I called today and got the major run-a-round. Now I know why.
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One thing I would do is remove the front lower panel (three small screws at floor level) pull out on the bottom of panel to pivot and remove,,You now can inspect most of the insides pay close attention to the shocks that support the drum assembly. The insides of these move a lot so if any side panel is pushed in it will probably hit when running
The problem is the dreaded broken
spinner support or what is called the spider assembly. It is the
that holds the basket to the shaft. Unlike the basket which is
stainless, the spider is made of aluminum that corrodes with time and
usually breaks during the 6th or 7th year of the machine.
The bad news is, the spinner support cannot be
purchased separately. It comes as a complete assembly with the basket
which is covered by at least a 10-year warranty. The most frustrating
fact is that the spinner support is not covered by the same warranty
even though they come as an assembly which costs at least $500, a
non-economical repair to invest.
Here are some videos of owners
of Sears Kenmore Front Load Washers who had an issue with the spinner
support. Most Sears Kenmore Front Load Washers are manufactured by
Whirlpool like the ones in the videos.
sounds like th bracket on the back of the basket has broken. just replaced mine and itwas abit ofa bear. teardown is all from the back and itis almost a complete teardown, remove back panel and top, remove struts on the lower drum assembly, remoive drive belt. the large drum assembly has a bunch of screws tht holdit together(heads aretoward the front of the waser) remove all of the lower screws, removeth springs from the top of the drum ssemblyand remove he srings. take out thescrews fron th top halfof the drum assembly. the back half should now comeout. remove the bolt holding te drive pully onto the drum assembly then th plastic drum assemblycan b removed from thebassket. the back of the basket has a bracket on it I bet itis broken. this is a 200 dolar part, (basket) and replacementis the reversal ofremoval. it is a difficult and somewhat time consuming repair butit was well worth it for me
Thanks for using FixYa. If your washer is a front load washer then check these things if it is making noise--
bellows is a rubber sleeve that seals the suspended outer tub to the stationary
cabinet front at the tub opening. Its purpose is to provide a water tight
opening into the tub that can be sealed by the cabinet door, yet allow
flexibility for the oscillation of the tub during the wash and spin cycles. Outer
outer tub assembly is supported by two suspension springs and stabilized by two
air shock assemblies. A cement counter weight is mounted to the front of the
outer tub by screws. A counterweight is molded into the rear half of the outer
tub. These counterweights prevent excessive oscillation of the entire suspended
assembly during an unbalanced spin cycle. Spin
spin basket is constructed of stainless steel. The circumference of the basket
is perforated to allow water to flow through it as it revolves. A heavy steel
shaft is pressed into the spin basket support which is then bolted to the
basket. The spin basket assembly is entirely supported by two ball bearings
pressed into the rear of the outer tub. A large drive pulley is mounted to the
free end of the shaft that extends through the rear of the outer tub. There are
three plastic vanes mounted to the spin basket to aid in the washing action
during the wash cycle. The rotation of the spin basket provides both the
washing action during the wash cycle, and water extraction during the spin
High pitch "jet engine" noise--A certain
amount of motor whine is normal during the spin cycle.
Rattling and clanking noise--
• Foreign objects such as coins or safety pins may be in
drum or pump. Stop washer and check drum. If noise continues after washer is
restarted, objects may be in pump.
• Belt buckles and metal fasteners are hitting wash drum. To
prevent unnecessary noise and damage to drum, fasten fasteners and turn items
Squealing sound or hot rubber odor-- Washer is
overloaded. Do not overload washer. Stop washer and reduce load.
Thumping sound— Heavy wash loads may produce a
thumping sound. This is usually normal. If sound continues, washer is probably
out of balance. Stop washer and redistribute wash load.
• Washer is not resting firmly on floor. Move washer so it
rests firmly on floor. Adjust leveling legs. NOTE: Some shaking of the washer
is normal without moving across the floor. See INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS for
• Shipping bolts and foam blocks have not been removed
during installation. See INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS for removing shipping bolts
and foam blocks.
• Wash load unevenly distributed in drum. Stop washer and
rearrange wash load.
Please do rate the solution and revert for further assistance.
Overfilling loads can cause small objects like pins, coins, and small socks to get between the tub abd Basket of your washer.
The basket is held onto the rear half of the outer tub simply by the bolt to the main pulley. Remove the bolt, remove the pulley, and the basket shaft should slip right out of the bearings of the rear tub.
Simply shining a light around between the basket and outer tub should confirm that there is something in there, since you have access to do this with the front tub removed. Go ahead, remove the pulley and bolt, and if the basket comes out, then check everything out.
If it doesn't, don't try pounding it out; stop there and go to plan B, which is a new basket and tub assembly.
Front - loader: Remove Bellow http://media.fotki.com/1_p,wbwdbgtqbsqkfbgxgtqsskgwtqkq,vi/kdtfgttdqxkfqrdrrdq/1/1303472/5961857/image45926img-or.jpg
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your basket shaft is broken or the bearing are bad it probably sounds like a freight train when it goes into high spin you need your washer rebuilt but it would be cheaper to buy a new washer. to rebuild the washer it will cost aleast 800 dollars
I just went through the same issue with my Kenmore front loading washing machine. I assumed (and a Sears repairman also told me) that it is the bearings. After I took the drum assembly out, I saw the rear drum broken and the inner tub hitting the outer tub. I ordered the outer drum assembly and only when I took the inner drum assembly out I realized the the "Spider" attached to the inner drum (and spindle) was broken. Entire drum assembly cost $417 + shipping and it may be cheaper in the long run to buy a new washer. I like the front loaders because they save water and good for the environment, but the US manufacturers have not yet perfected the technology like European manufacturers (or they don't want the machines to last too long just like cars). Anyway, I am looking into welding the spider tomorrow. If not will return the outer tub assembly and buy a top loading washer for $300!