I'll try to describe this as well as I can. There is a black arm at the top of the bobbin case that has a spring attached to it and a little piece protruding that is supposed to fit in a notched area that keeps the bobbin case from spinning. The black arm is loose and keeps allowing the bobbin case (that is what is I am calling the area that has the round center spool that holds the bobbin and it's case)
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Re: Bernina 180 Bobbin case spinning
Its called the bobbin stopper. Pop off your needle plate by pressing on the marked corner. In the back on the left you will see a small allen screw which must have come loose. Position the bobbin stopper in place and tighten that screw. If it already is tight, loosen it and reposition the bobbin stopper in the notch and tighten it back up.
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You will note the round shape of the spring is some what raised on one side. Insert the spring so that the spring is raised in the Center. ... Toward you ...then be sure to insert the small clips in the outer edge of bobbin case. Also rotationally be sure the flat portion of spring is configured in the same position as the shape of the opening of the bobbin case It's purpose is to put pressure on the bobbin and control back lashing or spinning of bobbin
Your Bernina 180 is a rotary hook model and there is a bobbin case retainer mechanism below the sticth plate that has a long spring on it - it sounds like this has become detatched at one end and may well be affecting the stitch quality. Take the stitch plate out and you will see a black rectangular metal bar in front of the rotary hook mechanism - there is a small silver part in the middle that fits in a slot in the rotary hook bobbin basket - the spring should fit on this and then extend the length of the black bar and pull onto a retainer at the other end so that there is fairly strong tension on the silver part. If not this spring, then it's probably something that's dropped-off from elsewhere and maybe, possibly the feed-dog cam retaining spring. Let me know what you find.
There are two tension adjustments, which should be done with a proper set of weight gauges - top and bottom thread tension should be carefully balanced to get the best stitch formation. It is best that you assume the top tension is correct and adjust the bobbin tension to match. Load the bobbin with thread of one colour and put a spool of the same thread but a different colour on the top. Thread-up the machine, load the bobbin and sew-off a satin-stitch on max width zig-zag. In this configuration, there should be a very small 'bead' of the top thread showing along each side of the satin-stitch on the underside of the material. If there's excessive top showing, the bobbin tension is too high and if none, the bobbin tension is too low. To adjust the tension, remove the bobbin case and you will see a spring around the edge with two screws through it. One of the screws holds the spring in place and the other adjusts the tension - this is furthest from the edge of the spring and is in a small 'cup' in the spring itself. To reduce tension, turn the screw VERY SLIGHTLY anticlockwise and to increase it turn it clockwise. Make very slight adjustments and re-check sewing-off the satin-stitch every time until you get the required thin line of top showing down each side of the stitch on the underside. Ideally this should be done with Mettler Metrosene thread, but as we're just balancing against the top tension, it shouldn't matter too much provided you use a good thread top and bottom.
There are two springs on the bobbin case of a rotary hook machine like the 180 and I suspect you're talking about the thread tension spring on the outside of the case - this is held on and the tension adjusted by a two very small screws. The other spring is the brake spring which is a complicated shape spring that sits in the bottom of the case and puts a slight amount of pressure on the bobbin itself. Assuming the thread tension spring has been recovered along with its two screws, it should be fairly self-evident how it fits back onto the bobbin case - the spring lays across the **** in the bobbin case, through which the thread is pulled, so that the tip of the spring with a small right-angle bend just sits down into the aperture where the thread comes out. Now, importantly, the two screws are different sizes ... the one with the smallest head holds the spring onto the bobbin case and is screwed-down firmly through the hole in the flat end of the spring. The larger screw adjusts the thread tesnsion and is screwed through the hole with the slight conical sides. Now the tension should be adjusted to 5g using a proper gauge, but failing that, insert a bobbin loaded with a thread such as Metrosene and thread the bobbin case up. hold the end of the thread so that the bobbin case hangs on the thread - it should not move/unreel itself. If it does, adjust the tension screw (the bigger one) a little bit at a time until it doesn't unwind. The approximately correct tension is obtained when the bobbin will only unreel when you **** the thread upwards gently. You can fine adjust the tension to get the correct balance by ensuring the top tension is set to normal (red line) and adjusting the bobbin tension until the stitch lays properly in the fabric - use different colours top and bottom to check this. Be aware that the bobbin thread tension varies quite alot with only a small rotation of the adjusting screw, so take it is small steps. Hope this helps.
Tricky !!! I dont know why the door is stuck, but its possible that the spring-loaded plunger in the top of the bobbin door is stuck into the cover of the free-arm. If there is suficient gap between the top of the bobbin door and the free-arm cover, you could try sliding a thin piece of metal or a very small flat-bladed screwdriver between the two, in the dead-centre of the bobbin door - that's where the plunger is located. By gently manouvreing the screwdriver in, you might be able to release it - be careful, because it's possible that the retaining circlip has dropped-off the bottom, in which case, the plunger and its pressure spring might fly out when the bobbin door opens. If that doesn't work, you could try unscrewing and removing the stitch plate and, again, with a small flat-bladed screwdriver, see if you can release the free-arm cover catch that's next to the top-left-hand-side of the bobbin door, but that's a very risky approach, because the feed-dogs will be in the way and you dont want to mangle any of the hook/shuttle parts etc. You need to find out why the bobbin door is not seated properly - it may be that the bottom hinge that also carries the hook/shuttle retainer has come out of the left-hand hinge mount in the free-arm. Good Luck.
Check that the thread is tight around the bobbin. Make sure that the bobbin is in the right way around - the bobbin thread should double back on itself coming out of the bobbin holder. The bobbin tension adjustment is the small screw in the plate on the bobbin case that the thread passes under as it comes off the bobbin and goes out.
Hi, most likely your bobbin sensor is being blocked by something. Common causes are a dirty sensor. Q-tip on the eye of the sensor inside the bobbin door. Or there is fuzz blocking it. Next take out the bobbincase and the bobbin. Look in the bobbincase and you will see a round spring. This spring acts like a brake for the bobbin. Sometimes these springs will get moved and out of position blocking the little space that the bobbin sensor reads through. Reposition the spring so you can see through it and the bobbincase.
That should do it.
When you have the bobbin wound and placed in the bobbin case pull on the thread. If the bobbin turns counter-clockwise the bobbin is in upside down. The bobbin must turn clockwise when you pull the thread looking at it from the back..
Then slip the thread into the notch and pull it up under the flat spring up into (through) the hole.
Thats it, now snap it in the machine.