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Re: I can't get the hoop under the foot and I am using...
Use the "P" Foot, clear plastic, it does not go all the way to the needleplate.
You should be able to manouver the Hoop under the foot without too much trouble if you come at it like scooping under the foot with the edge of the hoop. Also try manually raising the presser foot the extra little bit the lever will give you when you raise it..........if you raise and let go at the top position, it will still drop a couple of mm, so use that extra slack.
Of course it is a little clumsy, but you could also attach the P foot after the hoop is in place, but it really ought not be that difficult. There is a very remote chance that the Needle Bar Height has dropped, but it is not in the scope of this forum to describe that process without you having a fairly thorough understanding of the mechanics of the machine as other elements of timing and relative adjustments come into play.
It is an expensive investment that you have made and deserves good care by trained people if it does come to such adjustments.
As to needle threading, this model has a needle threader mechanism that ought to obviate the difficulty of manual threading, if it needs adjustment, then it is not too dificult to describe, you can contact me through the Contact Us page of www.bargainbox.com.au
a 6ya Repairman can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repair professionals here in the US. click here to Talk to a Repairman (only for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. Goodluck!
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You need to use a darning presser foot--there are several designs of darning feet made by Bernina or generic brands (be sure the generic model has the appropriate attachment for your particular Bernina). You can find metal or plastic, clear or solid foot, open or closed toe, spring-loaded hopper or not, etc. Drop the feed dogs. If it is thinner fabric (lighter weight than denim), it sometimes helps to put the fabric in an embroidery hoop (upside down with the fabric next to the needle plate). If the hole is small, you can use the little hoop that should have been included in your Bernina accessory kit. Then you manually move the fabric back & forth, up & down under the presser foot while stitching.
Hi, I hope this helps. If it doesn't post again.
Place the sewing foot under the sewing foot
holder so that the pins of the foot snap into
the sewing foot holder when the presser foot
lifter is lowered. Please check that the sewing foot is properly
engaged by raising the presser foot lifter."
Question: Are you using top feed? If so:
"For all sewing jobs with the top feed, only use sewing feet with Cutout at the back (OA, 1A, 3, 4)."
Embroidery foot Part No.: 98-694-840-00 will not work with top feed.
Also, except for eyelets, the darning foot can be used for embroidery.
I'm not sure what you're trying to do :) darn or embroider :); I'm not sure what mode you're working in either; embroidery mode?
Darning with straight stitch
Program 00 Fit darning foot No. 6.
Set the needle at its highest position by turning
the handwheel, and push the pin of the darning
foot fully into the hole of the sewing foot holder
slightly pressing the darning foot between thumb
and forefinger. When doing this, the guide fork
should place itself around the presser bar and the
wire must be behind the fixing screw. Darning position: Lower the presser foot lifter pressing it lightly to
the rear until it snaps into the darning position.
Important Only in this position you have the
optimum thread tension for darning.
• Place the darning work in the darning hoop.
• Lower the feed dog.
• Pull up the bobbin thread and hold the threads
when you start sewing.
• Now guide the fabric back and forth evenly;
the length of the darn will be set by the size of
the hole. As you are determining the stitch
length yourself while sewing with the feed dog
lowered, you should sew at an even speed.
When you have reached the width of the dam
aged area, darn over the damaged area again
from right to left.
This guarantees a durable darn.
TIP: The faster you sew, the easier and more even
the darning will be. It you are moving the workpiece
too slowly, small knots will appear on the
wrong side of the fabric."
Whether working with terry-cloth or woven fabric,
with the help of the darning foot and the pro
gram 02 you can embroider initials of your own
Drop the feed dog and insert the darning foot.
Put the machine into the darning position.
Spread the fabric in an embroidery hoop and
embroider in accordance with program 02.
Lower feed dog If the feed dog is not lowered for embroidering, the
machine does not embroider when the foot pedal
is pressed and the message appea rs:
Lower feed dog
ok? The feed dog must be lowered in embroidery
YOUR MACHINE USES A PULSE MOTOR (SMALL MOTOR) THAT CAUSES THE NEEDLE ARM TO MOVE. IF THE MOTOR IS A PROBLEM THEN YOUR ZIGZAG STITCH AMONG OTHER STITCHES WON'T WORK. YOUR HOOP I'M NOT SURE BUT IT SOUNDS LIKE YOUR HOLDER ISN'T LOCKING WHEN YOU PUSH THE HOOPS ON. LOOK INSIDE THE HOLE WHERE YOU PUSH THE HOOP AND TOUCH ON EACH SIDE AND PLACE PRESSURE TO SEE IF THEY BOUNCE BACK. ANYWAY, YOU WILL PROBABLY NEED TO GO TO YOUR LOCAL REPAIR SHOP ON BOTH OF THESE PROBLEMS.
The problem is being caused because the thickness of the material is not allowing the embroidery foot to land squarely on the fabric. The needle is then close to the back of the foot, and when a jump stitch is encountered, the needle hits the back of the foot and breaks. We used to suggest that people take a small wad of something and stick it under the presser foot lifter to raise it a little--not enough to trigger the sensor, but enough to raise the foot. However, that\'s difficult to do and keep in place on an XL machine.
However, a much better solution is to simply switch to a darning foot. Both can be used for embroidery, but the darning foot is spring loaded and starts out flat. Plus, it\'s much easier to get on, and much easier to get past the rim of the hoop when you\'re putting the hoop on.
One comes with your machine, but if it didn\'t, I have purchased several from eBay. They are VERY inexpensive, and my personal preference is one with a closed large round metal ring at the bottom. All Futuras, including yours, take a low-shank foot. They are very used by many machines and therefore very commonly available. I think you\'ll be very pleased with the results!
This can happen, click back to tools option check whether hoops selection is correct. If this is not the problem, off your machine then put on again. If message remain pull out the embroidery carriage & push in again. Hope it can work. In jam situation, just exit from your embroidery option, fix the jam by moving the embroidery carriage, work on a different design and see if it work. Sometime a design may not work fully.
That would depend on if you have a regular home sewing machine or a embroidery machine. I'm going to assume that you have a regular machine.
There is something called free hand embroidery. you lower or disengage the feed dogs, take off the presser foot. Some use a darning foot and others just leave the foot off. Hopefully your design is already marked on the fabric. Place fabric in a regular hand embroidery so they fabric is right side up but the hoop makes it sit down in the rings. (make sense) Fit your hoop on the bed of the sewing machine, under the presser foot/presser foot bar. Lower the presser foot lever. (important for tension) and select stitch style and length. you may need to adjust tensions too.
Begin stitching, take a couple stitches... then reverse a couple... then snip the loose ends. Continue to stitch, guiding the hoop so that the needle follows the design. Start slowly and as you discover how your hand movements effect the length of the stitches... you can speed up and slow down as you need to create your design.
The Quiltmaster 50 can only do free-hand embroidery. Use the darning foot. Set the machine for a satin stitch with a stitch length of 0 and lower the feed dogs. Manually move the hoop to stitch your design. (Trace the design on the fabric and place on a stabilizer if needed. Center the design in an embroidery hoop and move the hoop under the needle. In my limited experience, all fabrics need stabilizers. Some require multiple sheets of stabilizer.)
Personally, I have trouble moving any fabric under the pressure foot. This is mostly a matter of practice. You have to make a lot of scrap piece trials.
Cindy Wells (who actually cheats: I either use an embroidery sewing machine or I use a late 1960s Singer Sewing machine with its Monogramming accessory. This has pre-programmed designs on little discs. That's why I don't practice free-hand stitching.)
What do I need to get
started at free machine embroidery?
A zigzag sewing machine with a drop-feed control. (In other
words, you have to be able to lower the feed dogs so they don't try to
feed the fabric.) It's nice if you can vary the width of your
zigzag stitches too.
An embroidery foot or needle with embroidery spring. An
embroidery foot helps by holding the fabric down against the
throat plate while nevertheless being minimal - it lets you see
what you're doing because it has very little surface area. You can
alternatively get a needle that has a kind of spring built into
it, and the spring holds the fabric in place. These can be nice in
that they're even more minimal than an embroidery foot, but
they're also relatively expensive and if it breaks you have to
replace the whole thing instead of using an ordinary cheap needle
with the special embroidery foot. If you use the needle with
spring, you don't use a presser foot while you embroider.
An embroidery hoop. There are two primary kinds of embroidery
hoops on the market. The old-fashioned kind, usually made of wood,
has an outer ring and an innter ring. You loosen the outer ring,
separate the rings, place the fabric over the inner ring, place
the outer ring over the fabric, tighten the outer ring, and pull
the fabric tight in the hoop. With the modern type hoop, you
squeeze a pair of handles on the inner ring to remove it, place
the fabric over the outer ring, place the inner ring (still
squeezed) into place and release the handles. The more modern hoop
is faster and easier. The old-fashioned hoop provides better
tension on the fabric.
Stabilizer. This helps prevent puckering and slipping while
you're embroidering. There are a variety of types out there. Some
are papery and are torn away from the embroidery when you're
done. Only use that on the back side of the embroidery,
as it's almost impossible to get it all off. Others are also
papery and also tear away but are dissolvable in cold water,
leaving only a few easy-to-remove fibers in the embroidery. Your
authors like this type of stabilizer. There is also a transparent
plastic-like stabilizer which dissolves completely in water. Your
authors have this but haven't tried it yet, but hear it's very
nice. It's expensive though.
Fabric... of course. Make sure that your embroidery
hoop fits on the piece you're going to embroider on. If the
piece is to be small, you may want to embroider before cutting the
piece from the fabric.
Thread. Contrary to popular belief, you can use ordinary
polyester all-purpose thread to embroider, but it can weaken the
fabric you're embroidering on. (If you do use polyester, you may
want to fuse some interfacing to the back of your embroidery when
you're done.) There is plenty of gorgeous 100% rayon embroidery
Thread for the bobbin. This won't be seen on the surface, so
you can use anything you want. Trying to find a way to get rid of
that day-glo orange thread you can't remember why you bought?
Stick it in the bobbin when you embroider. Some embroiderers feel
that it's best to use a softer thread (like 100% cotton) in the
bobbin so as to reduce the possibility that the bobbin thread
will break the embroidery thread, but your authors haven't had a
problem with this to date.
How do I prepare the machine
and fabric for free machine embroidery?
Drop the feed dogs and set the stitch length at zero. (If you can't
set the stitch length at zero, don't panic, it's not that
important.) Install the fabric in the embroidery hoop (with any
stabilizer[s] you intend to use) so that the surface of the fabric
is at the *bottom* of the hoop. (Note that if you're used to
embroidering or cross stich by hand, this means you're putting the
fabric in the hoop backwards.) When you place the hoop on the
table such that the fabric surface rests on the table, the right
side of the fabric should face up. Install the embroidery foot or
special embroidery needle with spring on the sewing machine. If
you're using the special needle, remove the presser foot. Place
the embroidery hoop in the sewing area. (Some machines can't lift
the presser foot enough to admit some hoops - you may have to
remove the presser foot temporarily, position the hoop, and then
re-install the presser foot if you're using one.) Set the sewing
machine for a straight stitch. Reduce the upper tension until
stitches interlock below the fabric instead of above or inside it.
How do I lock the thread at
the beginning and end of my embroidery so it doesn't begin to
Make several stitches in place to lock the thread.
try shutting down the machine and then start up again.try it also with another design as well. But actually i think you may have done something to the timing. take to a bernina dealer for their service rep to handle. also take the piece you were working on and show them the problem