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Re: How do you attach black/white connectors?
Sounds like either the positive or negative or a ground. To determine either a positive or negative you can use a multimeter, to check continuity with the press unplugged. You could also see if there are wires connecting to the connections that are on the press and match the color up to your loose wires. If you connect them wrong and they are a positive or negative wire, the worse it would probably do is run the press in the wrong direction. Then you would just switch them out. A normal drill bit will run in a clock wise motion to bore.
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1. Have on hand either wire connectors or electrical tape
2. Look at the wires coming from your ceiling fan. The black wire from the ceiling fan is the hot wire that runs the motor and turns the fan blades. The white wire is neutral and completes the fan circuit. The blue wire is the hot wire for the ceiling fan light fixture. The ceiling fan motor does not have a ground wire.
3. Find the short green wire or the green ground screw on your ceiling fan hanging bracket. Attach the bare copper wire from your electrical box to the short green wire by twisting and orange wire connector to the two wires. If you only have a green ground screw, wrap the bare copper wire around this screw and tighten the screw against the bracket to secure the wire.
4. Match the end of the white insulated wire from the ceiling fan to the end of the white wire from your electrical box. Twist a wire connector onto the two wires to complete the neutral circuit.
5. Connect the black insulated wire from the ceiling fan to the black insulated wire from the electrical box. If you do not have a separate toggle switch on the wall to operate the ceiling fan and light separately, grab the blue wire and place it with the black wire from the fan motor and the black insulated wire from the electrical box. Twist a wire connector to all three wires. If you have the additional toggle switch, connect the two black wires together with an orange wire connector, and then match the blue wire and the red wire together. Twist another orange wire connector on the red and blue wires
I would attach the black wire to the black & yellow, white to white, red to blue & brown. The green wire is your ground wire and needs to be attached to the cabinet. On the connection where your white wire is located see if there is a copper strap that goes from the terminal block to the cabinet. If there is, you will need to remove that strap and attach the green wire to where the strap was attached to the cabinet. Hope this helps!
Connect red to red side, black to black side. White in the middle and green to the frame of the dryer. make sure all connections are tight but beware of overtightening the electrical terminals I recently fixed a dryer exactly like this that had a 4 prong setup. Take a look:
Unplug the dryer then remove the terminal block cover and disconnect the 3-prong cord from the dryer. Note that the cord has red , black, and white wires but sometimes the red and
black wires are both replaced by same color wire, usually gray and can switch places. There's also a ground strap wire also connected to the center terminal together with the white (neutral) wire.
yourself a 4-prong cord and note that it has red, black, white, and green/yellow
wires but sometimes, like the 3-pronged one, the red and
black wires are both replaced by same color wire, usually gray and can
also switch places. All you have to do now is connect the 3 wires in
the same manner they are connected as 3-prong cord to the terminal
block. The ground strap wire now just need to be connected to the remaining 4th wire, the green/yellow
wire instead of the center terminal together with the white (neutral) wire. Reinstall the terminal block cover and it's done.
can be observed that converting a 3-prong cord to 4-prong cord is
merely splitting the
line and the ground thereby increasing the number
of prongs from 3 to 4 whereas, on the other hand,
converting a 4-prong cord to 3-prong cord is merely joining the neutral line (white) and the ground (green/yellow)
thereby reducing the number of prongs from 4 to 3.. The links below might enlighten you further on this matter.
The new cord has a green ground wire; two hot wires, which are black and red; and a white neutral wire. Attach the neutral to the middle connector and the two hot wires to either end of the terminal.
In order to safely ground the machine the green ground wire must be securely connected to the dryer frame. There may be a screw on the frame where you can attach the ground.
4-prong plug has red, black, white, and green/yellow wires while the
3-prong plug has red, black, and white wires. The only difference is the
green/yellow (ground) wire of the 4-prong plug which is attached to the
dryer cabinet. All you have to do is connect the wires of the 3-prong
plug in the same way the same wire colors are connected with the 4-prong
plug then connect the terminal on the cabinet, where the green/yellow
(ground) wire of the 4-prong plug is formerly connected, to the white
wire of the 3-prong plug.
The Hayward superpump is factory set at 220.
If you need to convert it to 110, all you need to do is take a screwdriver and remove the cap on the back of the motor. There are three prongs in the motor and a black jumper. The jumper connection needs to be disconnected and moved from The top and middle postion prongs, to the middle and lower prong. The ground wire (green) still connects to the same spot (usually a green bolt grounding lug). If using a Haward SPX1250wa (110 Cord) connect it to the pump Black wire to black connector/White to white. The Hayward cord comes with pre-attached terminal connections that makes it easy to do.
Once the cap is re-attached you should be good to go.