I can not open control console in order to fix lid switch for Kenmore Elite Washer 110.15962401

HI THERE, IT SOUNDS AS IF YOUR PUMP IS BLOCKED, NOT WORKING OR SOMETHING MORE SERIOUS. START BY CHECKING THE PUMPS IS NOT BLOCKED, LOOSE CHANGE NORMALLY CAUSES THIS AND IS RELATIVELY EASY TO FIX.

Finding the pump on the Kenmore Elite top load washer is a fairly easy project that can be done in about a half hour. The Kenmore Elite is part of the GE line of appliances and shares many of the same interior mechanical parts and systems. The Kenmore Elite is a very streamlined exterior cabinetry design, but the interior can be accessed by removing just a few screws in order for you to locate the water pump.
things you'll need:

• Screwdriver

1. • 1

     Unplug the electrical cord of the Kenmore Elite top load washer from the electrical outlet before attempting to locate the pump.
     

   • 2

     Remove the end caps on the control console of the dryer by pressing in on the caps with your thumbs and pulling the caps forward to unfasten them.
     

   • 3

     Unfasten the screws on the ends of the control console in the front with a screwdriver and tilt the console back so that it rests on the back hinges.
     

   • 4

     Unplug the top lid switch from the rear of the lid that sits underneath the control console, pulling the switch straight up off the metal prongs by hand.
     

   • 5

     Pry the metal clips that sit on the top lid up with a screwdriver, lifting the clips to unlatch the top and pull the top lid cover off the washer base, setting it aside.
     

   • 6

     Locate the water pump at the base of the washing machine on the top of the motor shaft.
     

   • 7
     

   • take the cover off the pump and remove any blockage or debris.
     

thanks and good luck

iain



Read more: How to Find the Pump on a Kenmore Elite Top Load Washer ' eHow.com http://www.ehow.com/how_6304872_pump-elite-top-load-washer.html#ixzz1LQ4bdiFZ

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-model/Kenmore-elite-Parts/Washer-Parts/Model-11026922503/0583/0153200?pathTaken=

Look at the section on the cabinet and console. You should see the lid switch:\

All you have to do is release the console and pull the cabinet to get to both parts of the switch:

See the following illustrated description of how to do it.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=131&osCsid=0da65cea0e338fe930b1fde153a243f0

All told it's about a 15 minute job.

This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number (###.######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

Newer model Whirlpool / Kenmore washers use a Lid Switch as a safety device. Unless the switch senses that the lid on the washer is closed, the washer will neither agitate nor spin.

Older models only used the switch during the spin cycle.

Try to bypass the Lid Switch by removing the Console and jumping the two outermost pins on the switch.

Following is a description of how to release the console for access to the pins.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

This is a Whirlpool PDF on how these washers operate. It has a diagram on jumping the switch as well as a detailed section on how the transmission works.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf


It also has a troubleshooting guide.

To bypass the switch, you only have to disconnect the power to the washer, tilt the console back, unplug the switch and using an short piece of insulated wire, jump the two outermost contacts on the connector coming from the console and plug the washer back in.

Following is a description of how to gain access to the console and how to remove the cabinet if necessary.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=131&osCsid=913ba652cd504fb162f87d892bcb427b

With the jumper in place, try to re-start the washer.

If it works, the Lid Switch is a relatively inexpensive part.

Hi,
This is most certainly caused by a faulty micro switch on the lid. Have the switch checked out and replaced if need be.

Best wishes,
Graemevm

Simply attach both wires from the switch to jumper.


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First of all, unplug your washer. You will need to remove the console in order to get to the lid switch. The washer may have release tabs under the console at each front corner. Simply slide a putty knife straight in from the front at each corner and push in while lifting up. You should feel the release tabs push in and the console will pop up. If not equipped with this type of console, you may have a console that has removable end caps. They can be removed by gently prying up on the top of them from the rear on each side. You may have to use a small screwdriver for this. The caps should pop right off. Once removed, you will need to loosen a screw under each cap. Once you have the console loosened, carefully lift it up and lay it back over the rear panel of the washer in its resting position. Be careful not to damage the small plastic hinges that hold it in place. Now you will need to perform the following steps:

1. Under the console you will find the lid switch connector. Unplug the switch from the connector.

2. There will be two brass colored clips. You will need to remove these to remove the machine casing. Place a flat blade screwdriver straight down into the opening on top of the washer and into the groove of the clip. Push the screwdriver away from you while holding into the groove and the clip will release.

3. Open the lid of the washer and place your hand under the front rim of the opening (DO NOT grab the wash tub). Now pull the case from the frame by lifting from the back first.

You do not have to remove it all the way from the frame, just enough to gain access to the switch. All there is to the switch is a couple of screws holding it in and a ground wire. It's a pretty easy repair job. Some models will have the switch located on the right-hand side of the lid rim opening, while other models will have the switch located on the left-hand side near the lid hinge.

Once you've completed your switch installation, make sure you get the case back on the frame correctly by following these steps:

1. While looking down through the lid opening, place the front lip of the machine case UNDER the washer frame and start leaning it back onto the frame. There are four small cleats that must fit into four slots on the case or the washer will vibrate. Make sure the frame is seated properly, lean forward from the front of the washer, grasp both sides of the rear panel and pull towards the case. The rear panel should be seated and flush with the casing before inserting the retaining clips.

2. Insert the brass-colored clips into the slot on the washer rear panel first, and then push straight down into the opening on the top of the washer with some force. If you have the case seated correctly, the clips will snap back in.

3. Make sure you plug the connector from the console back into the lid switch receptacle BEFORE you reassemble the console. This is easy to forget.


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you have poor contact with the left lid hinge and the lid switch.1st open the lid and check the 2 phillips head screws on the left side of the hinge.if they are loose tighten them and try mach.if the screws are tight,the lid switch might need to be replaced or adjusted.there will be 1 screw in each corner of the back of the console facing down.remove and flip console up,if there are no screws,take a putty knife and slide under front left and right corner of console and flip console up.the lid switch will be on left.if it is not broken out of socket,adjust hinge bar underneath switch by removing switch and bending silver bar up SLIGHTLY

most often the lid swtch is out of alignment, less often the switch fails

with the lid open examine the underside of the lid for the plastic 'tooth' that is supposed to engage the switch, if broken or missing replace, test
with the lid open and the washer turned on, use a ballpoint pen to engage the switch plate in the hole at the right side of the lid
If the washer starts, adjust the switch position, test
If the washer does not start
remove the edge trims from the console
remove the screws from the lower corners of the console
slide consloe forward ~1/2 inch, flip up and over
ensure cable is connected to lid switch connector
try lid switch again with ball pen
if washer does not start the switch has failed,
remove metal retainer clips from rear of washer top, remember installed position, you have to put them back
lift washer case 1 inch slide forward, lay down, remove switch
replace
reassemble in reverse order, test

3-5 times a month, takes about 25 minutes, the switch costs $7.95+tax

SL = Suds Lock

SL is a suds lock code it can be caused by the drain pump not draining the water, too much detergent, non HE detergent, or extra heavy loads, try running it empty, if code persits it is a computer/main controller/timer failure

The control should flash this error code if it cannot detect the lid switch opening and closing properly.
This error code may also be used if there is a disagreement between the motor and machine controllers on the state of the lid switch.

The control should not allow the unit to run in this condition. This code will also appear if the user presses the START key while the lid is open.

Open the lid or press STOP/CANCEL to clear the display

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