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Valliant timeswitch 110 heating system fails to switch on when on constant setting??

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Check the timer switch, there is a micro switch inside that could have been damaged.

tnx 4 using fixya,


Posted on Oct 04, 2008


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Posted on Jan 02, 2017


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Samsung dryer will not heat. Have checked power coming in. 110 on each leg, 220 cross termanials..... power in board 110 to both motor and heating system. Thermister, coil and hi temp switch new

The coil is the only item in those that uses the 220. If you only have 110 at the heating coil then there is an issue in the supply.

Dec 16, 2016 | Samsung Dryers

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Lavatherm tumble dryer fails to heat up

ELECTRIC Dryer no heat or little heat, or shuts down to fast:

Check your venting and lint basket. Check blower for lint build up and blower wheel obstruction., test by trying to turn the wheel manually by hand (should be easy) May have to remove cabinet or front/back plate to get to it)

Next check the heating element itself with a meter for continuity OHMS CLOSED CIRCUIT. If not its defective or has a short if its grounding out? Which in turns causes blown fuses or thermostats or

The heating elements are located inside the heater ducts. If you think a heating element is faulty, test it with avolt-ohm-multimeter (VOM)set to the RX1 scale. Disconnect the leads from the power terminals and clip one probe of the VOM to each terminal. The meter should read about 12 ohms. If the reading is higher ohms, the heater is faulty and should be replaced. Replace a faulty heater with a new one of the same type and electrical rating. A heater connected to a 115-volt line usually has an 8.4-ohm resistance; a heater connected to a 220-volt line usually has 11 ohms resistance.

Check dryer Terminal block prongs both outside prongs should give combined 220, and 110 each if u check 1 outside & 1 center (ground) prong. Also check house electrical outlet for full voltage. 220 because if u only get half or 110 volts you will be able to run the machine which uses only 110 to run motor but not the heater which uses a full 220,

OR you may have a broken centrifugal switch in the motor because this switch activates the motor and the heater as well. supposed to be if the motor does not run , the heater should not heat in order not to create fire but you said that even the motor is not running, the heater is still heating, then there could be a problem with the motor centrifugal switch that is connected to this interlock switch that should trigger the heater.

Check the thermal cut off, the cycling and the hi limit thermostats.
For continuity or OHMS. If no ohms or resistance they need replacement.

In some dryer's the control panel relies on a thermistor rather than a CYCLING thermostat to regulate the drum's air temperature by monitoring the component's resistance changes; resistance goes down as temperature increases and up when temperature decreases. Once the drum's air temperature reaches a certain level required to dry clothes, the control panel shuts off the heater. The panel will turn the heater on again and begin another heating cycle when the thermistor indicates that more heat is needed to keep the air temperature constant inside the drum

Lastly check your moister sensor. ( located inside the dryer door usually) Especially if machine seems to shut down early and clothes are still wet.
Test with a meter at room temperature and it should show continuity.
A failed moisture sensor will affect the dryer run time in the automatic moisture sensing cycle but it will not affect the heating of the dryer or the timed cycle. Which are reflected by the thermostats.


Sep 11, 2014 | Dryers

1 Answer

No heat in dryer

Most likely, is a broken heating element. 2nd most likely is a thermostat switch that has failed. 3rd most likely is a burnt wire.

If you'd care to fix this yourself,
You will be needing to find a testing instrument to see what is wrong. That would be like a volt/ohm meter or a multi-tester.
First, see if you are getting current to the dryer.
Open the back of the dryer and fine the electric hookup.
You should be getting 110 volts to each side of the 3 wire hookup. The center screw/nut is a ground.
If you have a 4 wire dryer, the extra green wire is also a ground, and should be hooked off to the side.
If you have 110 volts to each of the two sides, then you would remove the back of the dryer, to find the wires for the heating element and all the thermostat switches.
If you have 110 to only one of the sides, check the plug on the wall or floor, and the circuit breaker in the hall or garage or wherever.
Next, you would be removing the plug of the dryer, and check the heating element and the thermostat switches with your resistance setting on the meter.
Unplug each of the items you are testing one at a time.
One of them will show "no current is getting through".
That is you defective part.
Be blessed.

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