Question about Singer 2662

1 Answer

The buttonholer doesn't work right.

Hi--hope you can help--I've put in the same buttonhole 7 times and had to pull out all kinds of odd misshapen thread wads and stitches. This buttonholer is a rinky-dink plastic and metal foot and guide, where the button sits at the back and the foot is supposed to read the size of the button to make a hole to fit it. The little plastic teeth do not keep the sizing mechanism tight, so the button falls out at odd times. There is also a stopping mechanism that you pull straight down out of the machine, and that is to hit the piece on the left side of the sizing mechanism. I've made countless sample holes on scraps--and can get a reasonable buttonhole. But, as soon as I try to put one in my jacket, either the button falls out, or the buttonhole stitching goes straight back, but doesn't come forward to finish. On the practice ones, I can even push the "stopper" mechanism back again and make a nice, two-times-around buttonhole. But, as soon as I try to stitch one in my actual clothing artical, it screws up and stops on the return trip. The manual itself does not specify a stitch length to set, but only says to turn a set-screw in the back of the machine to make nicer stitches--which doesn't happen. It also does not specify the pressure of the buttonholer, as regulated by the top rolling control. It doesn't specify feed-dogs up or down. Any advice or ideas?? Otherwise, I like the machine and it does everything I want it to do.

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  • qtp2t4474 Oct 04, 2008

    I solved my own problem after fooling around for hours on this earlier. I thought I'd go ahead and post what I figured out. First, don't mess with this flimsy buttonholer after a busy day of sewing...or of anything. With as unsubstantial as this thing is, you need to be in a complete Zen state, or at least be sure there is not a loved one anywhere nearer than the next county. It is possible to get a so-so looking buttonhole with the supplied buttonholer, but if you're remembering the sturdy metal adjuncts that used to hook on for dear life and used a snap-in cam, you're going to long for the day.



    The manual gives no info on the stitch length indicator on the front of the machine. However, if you screw around with this thing long enough, you'll notice that around the #1 on that indicator, there's a little buttonhole. Duh. Next, it does not give any information on the pressure wheel's setting--but, again, after several hours of cursing and fiddling, you'll figure out it doesn't matter too much, as long as there's a some pressure---like maybe a 2. The instructions say to place the button you want to make a hole for in the end of the buttonhole slide. The largest buttonhole you can make is a 1", which is useless if you make coats or some designer wear. You'll probably have to make your own with the zig-zag stitch and home-made bars at the ends. Yuk.



    You put the button in, flattest side down, and hope it doesn't just fall out...because, there is no way to tighten the bracket once it's in there. It slides up to it, then the rattling it gets loosens it along the way. The stitch width indicator also had a buttonhole on it---score one for the copywriters at Singer--so you'll know where it should be set. Actually could be a little wider, but don't press your luck.



    Next, you pull down a little white lever with BH on it (Button Hole, but could stand for Big Headache). Pull it all the way down, where it should stay next to the pressure foot, hopefully stopping the buttonholer at the point where it matches your button. Sometimes, it does, sometimes it doesn't...why? If you can figure it out, let me know. With this system, you cannot set it once and just go along, merrily making buttonholes. You have to check, and recheck, and recheck after every step of every buttonhole. Otherwise, the thing won't start where or when you think it will, won't stop where or when you think it should or the button will just fall out of it. I was lucky that my fabric was dark and patterned and heavy-weight. I picked out the same buttonhole stitching 7 times before I took a nap to calm down, coming back only after a good rest, a good meal and nothing else I had to get done.



    I like my buttonholes twice-around---if you do, it means you'll have to trick the buttonholer into thinking it's not done after once-around. When you stitch a buttonhole, the button-measuring tab hits that BH lever on its trip back toward you. When your needle goes into the bar it made at the start of the buttonhole, stop, push the BH lever backward, check the button to see if it's still in there, look at everything else to see if it's the way you had it set, then go once more around. After the dozens of practice ones I made, I still breathed a sigh of relief after every single buttonhole was complete. Because they're four-step, meaning they are not continuous like professional buttonholes, they look home-made. I would not want to use this on fine fabrics or anything where they'd show even a little bit. Unlike those cam-driven attachments, you cannot make keyhole buttonholes. There are instructions that show how to make "corded" buttonholes, but with all the other stuff going on while you're trying to get a good buttonhole or maybe six or eight of them, I can't imagine you wouldn't kill somebody by the time you had the cords hooked where they need to be and running where they need to run.



    My suggestion is to call a tailor and pay the extra to have nice looking buttonholes put in, because you're not going to get any from these low-end machines' "automatic" buttonholers.

  • Anonymous Dec 26, 2008

    This fixed really helped me. The instruction manual wasn't very helpful; this was. Thanks!!

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  • 13 Answers

Most sewing experts will tell you that the best buttonholes are made with the Singer Buttonhole attachment that has been available since the 1930's. It makes perfect buttonholes every time. Everyone complains about the modern machines not making great buttonholes and not working correctly. Just do a quick search on eBay for one of these vintage attachments and your problem is solved once and for all. Don't waste all the time and money trying to get your machine fixed to only find it does not make good buttonholes...the best solution has always been the buttonhole attachments made by Singer, which the professionals use even with modern machines. They can be found in low or slant shank.

Posted on Aug 27, 2009

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1 Answer

Buttonhole Foot Not Feeding the Fabric


have you checked the needle to see if it may be bent or damaged
try rolling it on a flat surface
have you also cleaned under the needle plate area where the feed dogs
are, for lint or loose threads
on electronic sewing machine when doing the buttonhole,,the buttonhole lever has to be pulled down before the machine will make a buttonhole, I know mine will not make a buttonhole unless the lever is pulled down .

Jan 16, 2012 | Singer Sewing Machines

1 Answer

How to use the buttonhole attachment


You haven't listed the model of your machine so its hard to give you step by step instructions as there is variations in how buttonholes are done. Some machines have a 4 step sequence on a knob, it may be colour coded with a little buttonhole symbol.

Other computerised machines you just select the buttonhole style and pull down a lever behind the needle bar which lines up with the special buttonhole foot to trigger the return stitching down the buttonhole side.

Have a look in your accessories and see if you have a buttonhole foot like this
tally_girl_76.jpg If so, remove the current pressure foot and put this on, clip it onto the little metal bar you see near the front of the foot. Now put your button into the back ratchet bit of the foot, you pull it out, place the button in there and close it up firmly to hold the button in place. This helps to give you the right length buttonhole.

Now you need to start the buttonhole stitching sequence and sorry, but I don't know what your machine's is, you really need to check the manual for this bit. It may be a 1,2,3,4 sequence on a dial and probably stitch length set to 0.5 so its a closed up satin stitch.

But you stitch the butttonhole in the folowing sequence:
near bar tack, reverse down right hand long side, far bar tack, then back up left hand long side, then a couple of stitches in place to finish off.

The buttonhole foot will sit firmly on your fabric and the inner part of it will move backwards as the machine stitches, then comes back to the front again.

The computerised machines will have a little lever you pull down and these will trigger on a lug on the buttonhole foot to start the reverse stitching at the right length buttonhole. Sometimes they will stitch both long sides in the same direction too, so sequence is near bar tack, down right hand side, far bartack, then it will stitch back to front in little straight stitches, then do the left hand long side to the back and finish off.

On early machines, you actually set the stitch length to 0.5, and stitch width to 2 for sides and 4 for bartacks and made the buttonhole yourself by stitching down one long side, leaving the needle in the fabric and pivoting the work around, then stitching the bartack, then the other long side, then final bartack all manually. It can be done but obviously the new programmed ones are far easier and give consistently similar buttonholes on a garment.

ALWAYS, interface the fabric to be buttonholed, you'll never get a good practice buttonhole without interfacing in a sandwich between two layers of fabric so no point practicing without it.

And, never cut your buttonhole with the seam ripper unless you pin across the two ends first to make sure you don't have a woopsy moment and rip through the end bartack. I use a buttonhole knife and block of wood to cut and it ensures you never have a cutting disaster.

I also pull the thread tails through to the underside with a needle afterwards, tie them off and add a dab of fray stopper to make sure the buttonhole never unravels, then trim the ends off close.

I hope this helps you but obviously getting the manual to your machine would be a big help too.

Sep 21, 2011 | Husqvarna Sewing Machines

2 Answers

My buttonhole is not working I hear a beep when i press down on the foot to go, what am I doing wrong


I get the same beeping when I forget to pull down the buttonhole lever

if you have the automatic buttonhole & the buttonhole foot that you have to put a button in,,check & see if there is a buttonhole lever that has to be pulled down, it will be a lever to the left of the needle bar

Aug 07, 2011 | Singer 7436 - INGENUITY

1 Answer

I cannot remember how to use the buttonhole function


try one of these other solutions, there are 4 on buttonholing with Janomes

http://www.fixya.com/search.aspx?cstm=0&_s=janome+buttonholer+foot&miniask_sbmt=1&ta_message=

just copy the link into your browser bar if it doesn't take you there automatically.

usually there is a little lever you pull down on the left of the pressure foot which triggers against the buttonholing foot to get the right length buttonhole.

Jun 18, 2011 | Janome Memory Craft 4800QC

1 Answer

When I press the button to make a buttonhole and step on the power, all I get is a beep. How do I make a buttonhole in that one easy step?!


Is there a little arm you need to pull down behind the presser foot? And a buttonhole foot that needs to go onto the machine?

Do you have a manual for it to check out the buttonhole procedure? try this link
http://www.singerco.com/resources/buttonhole.html for some instructions and images but always good to have the machines manual if you can get one.

Many of the machines with the one step buttonhole function have a white plastic slide type foot and the buttonhole lever that you pull down. You put a button into a clip at the back of the foot to "measure" the buttonhole length. Then start sewing, the machine will do a bartack, then start backwards, the pulldown lever will then connect with the foot when it gets to the right length, start the end bartack, then reverse back up the other side of the buttonhole and finish off when it comes back to the start of the foot.

The Singer will probably be some variation of this system, hope this helps.

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1 Answer

I need to learn how to make a buttonhole on my Husqvarna 210 electronic sewing machine.My manual is gone.


You may be able to still get that manual, check with your dealer. If not you can call Viking at: 1-800-474-6437 if it's out of print for a photo copy of the original owners manual.

To make a buttonhole do the following:

1. Turn the selector dial to the top position, That is the first step of the buttonhole.
2. Turn the stitch length dial (the bottom dial) to the picture of the buttonhole, it's between the 0 and the 1 on the dial.
3 Put on the "C" foot and put the tension dial, (the small dial just above and to the right of the needle) on 4.
4. On a test fabric, sew about an inch or so and stop. Turn the selector dial down one click and sew the bar tack of the buttonhole. Just do a few passes, don't build up alot of stitches here.
5. Turn the dial down another click to the 3rd step, the right side of the buttonhole and sew until you reach the place where you started the left column of the buttonhole and stop.
6. Turn the dial UPWARD one click to the bar tack position again and do another bar tack like you did at the top of the buttonhole. Don't build up alot of stitches here, about three passes does the trick.
7 Remove the fabric from the machine and when you cut the threads, leave a tail about 2 inches or so of the thread. From the back side of the buttonhole, pull gently on the thread and a loop from the front thread will appear on the backside. Pull the front thread to the rear and tie off the threads and then cut them close to the knot you tied and the buttonhole will not come apart.

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2 Answers

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I've been looking too and I found here http://sewing.patternreview.com/cgi-bin/sewingclasses/board.pl?t=18328that you need to put the bar behind the needle threader down. I think they call it a button hole stop? I don't know, but it worked. I didn't even know it existed. But it solved my problem. On my Kenmore it looks like a black lever and you pull it down. It tells the button-holer that you are at the end of the hole and it needs to backup. nifty, kind of.

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3 Answers

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Hi, you must have an 1130S which means it could also be a circuitboard issue. If the LED/LCD light for the buttonholer does not flash you either need a new RET-Print (circuitboard) or a new buttonhole foot. Sorry to say that you DO more than likely need a new buttonhole foot according to my manual on this machine. No way to repair the foot that I know of.
You should bring the machine in and try it first.
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These are the exact instructions from the Manual. 1. Select one of buttonhole patterns.
2. Replace the presser foot with the buttonhole foot. (Install presser foot with little red mark towards the front)
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4. Lower the buttonhole lever (to the left of the needle) so that it drops down vertically between the stoppers A and B.
5. Carefully mark the position of buttonhole on your garment.
6. Place the fabric under the foot. Pull out the bobbin thread underneath the fabric to a length of about 4 inches to the rear.
7. Align the buttonhole mark on the fabric with the mark on the buttonhole foot, and then lower the buttonhole foot.
8. While holding the top thread, start the machine.
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