I've noticed that there are car audio amplifiers on the market without
built-in fuses. Instead the manufacturers recommend external ANL fuses.
What are the reasons for this? Are there hidden benefits or detriments
in the performance of one product to the other? Is this to address the
serious power fluctuations that particular amp could experience, or is
it just laziness, and simple economics, quantity over quality?
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Re: Externally fused amplifiers
I believe it's because the fuses (or any other connection point) is deemed to be a weakness. If an amplifier is properly installed, there will be a large fuse as close to the battery connection point as possible. Any other fuses in the amplifier itself would be considered redundant. From a safety standpoint, if an installer chooses not to fuse the main power wire to the amp the fuses in the amp will not prevent a fire from occuring should the wire get shorted. Therefore there MUST be proper fusing on the power wire and further fusing in the amp is not necessary. The other reason for this may be that in many larger amplifiers from reputable companies (RF and others) they use un-regulated power supplies to get the maximum from their amps. Fuses could be considered a bottleneck in these systems as a properly installed system, again, has the required fusing at the battery.
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Golf carts do not have a charging system. If you are going to use battery power only, why not just add (1) 12V car battery instead of (2) 8V??
MA Audio runs (ran) their bench tests @ 17V. All the power ratings advertized are at 17V.
The power supply for the hk4000D is unregulated. So the more voltage = more power.. 8V-16VDC.
RMS Power @ 14.4V
1800W x 1 @ 4 Ohm
3600W x 1 @ 2 Ohm
RMS Power @ 17.0V
2000W @ 4 Ohm
4000W @ 2 Ohm
More input voltage means the amplifier will have to work less hard to make power.
Don't expect the amplifier to work for very long however. the current drain on a class D amplifier is huge. There are no on-board fuses protecting the power supplies, so be sure to have at lease a 150A power line fuse.
With 150A current draw - even with the amplifier at 1/2 gain - expect to get 10.6 minutes of listening time from your 16 volts before recharging - also note, the amplifier MUST see 8V to turn on, there is a built-in voltage sensor that will shut down the amplifier if voltage is too low.
Check the Inline Fuse -=Usually located Close to the battery in the engine copartment=- and also check the fuse in the AMP. Without knowing and seeing all of the details i would say to try to bypass the capicator, I know that i always unhooked my inline before jumping the car but i know it happens. Hopefully it will be just that a fuse or the capicator but if some sort of surge resulted from multiple failures get the amp bench tested at A car audio shop. Just some thoughts.