Question about Kenmore 63012 Electric Dryer
Hi, I figure the heating element is probably bad, but I am trying to get the back cover off and after removing the screws it seems like the thing is spot welded on. How can I get access to the internals.
Thanks in advance
Remove the lower front panel. the element is right there with all the access screws and wires. check the thermo relay also known to go bad..................
Posted on Oct 03, 2008
egin by removing the end caps found at either end of the console. Lift them from the back, and then pull them towards you. There will be two screws holding the console in place. Remove the screws, and then slide the console towards you and flip it up. You will find an additional three screws at the back of the cabinet top. Remove these and slide the cabinet top towards you and lift it off the unit. Proceed by removing the kickplate. There are two spring catches that need to be disengaged before you can remove the kickplate. Each spring catch is found about four inches in from each side. Use a putty knife or some other thin and flat object to wedge in between the front panel and the kickplate. Push down on the clips with the putty knife to disengage.
Open the dryer door and remove the screws that are holding the hinges to the door. Tilt the door up and pull on it gently to remove it. Continue the dismantling process by removing all the screws you find that are holding the front panel to the unit. There will be door switch screws, ground wire screws, and other screws holding the front panel to the bulkhead.
Reassembling the entire unit is basically the disassembly process in reverse. Replace the front panel of your dryer. Replace the dryer door, and then replace the kickplate. Reattach the cabinet top and then push the control panel back in place and reattach the two end caps.
Posted on Oct 03, 2008
When theres no heat check these
Power from the house Check to see whether there's power getting to the dryer. Is it plugged in? Check for blown fuses or tripped circuit breakers--your dryer uses two fuses or circuit breakers. The dryer could tumble but not heat if only one of the two fuses is blown. If you have circuit breakers, one of the two circuit breakers can trip, even if the two for the dryer are connected.
Heating element Often a dryer heating element burns out, but doesn't trip the circuit breaker or blow a fuse. The heating element is simply a long coil of special wire. You can check it for continuity with an ohm meter. No continuity means the element is bad and you need to replace it--electric heating elements aren't repairable.
Thermal fuse On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel. The fuse--which is about an inch long--is usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing. If the fuse has blown, you need to replace it. (You can't re-set it.)
Wiring A common problem is for the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, to burn and break its connection. Because the dryer can still tumble with partial power, the connection may be only partially defective. You may need to replace both the power cord to the dryer and the terminal block inside the dryer that the wire is attached to.
Posted on Oct 03, 2008
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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have an older dishwasher also and recently my wife also complained
about it not cleaning right... so me being the man I am tried in vain
to clean the things... Bought new spray arms online and installed
them in minutes...now the thing works like new... However I have also
found that if the heating element goes bad then that also can mess
things up bad... So I would buy new spray arms, and also check out
the heating element to make sure it is working... Here is a tip that
will help you with the online buying...
Dishwasher Spray Arms not Spinning
How to Buy Appliance Parts Online
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