Bad Color after replacing Color Wheel, removing jumper wire did not fix it
Replaced the Color Wheel solely because of its noise, the color & picture were fine before. Tried the suggestion of removing the jumper wire (I suppose it was the proper one--it's really short) but then the tv would not come on at all, indicating "Lamp, Stand-by, Temp." Put the jumper wire back, tv came on but color was still awful. I've invested so much time and energy, plus the price of the color wheel, that I hate to call in a repairman! Thanx, Salee
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On the metal box where the two cables from the color wheel plugged look for a tiny rectangular opening in the metal shield---there is a tiny jumper plug there, remove it carefully with a tiny pair of needle nose pliers.
One of the things they do not tell you when you replace the color wheel, it is somewhat different than the original one.
could be a jumper on the DMD board that must be removed, look for a small sticker that points to the jumper, or it could be a setting in the factory mode, mute-182-power will get you in there, check the settings for the color wheel
With the back off of the unit, you are looking at a silver can on the light engine. The is the board where the DLP IC is located. There is a large heat sink right in the middle. Near that heat sink you will find a small square cut out where two pins protrude from the inner bd. There is a small black piece across those two pins, that is the jumper. With a needle nose slide that black jumper off of the two pins. Normally if the color wheel is changed and the jumper not remove the picture is very poor with ugly green and purple negative look.
Hi...No need for a different jumper or different color wheel. It's an easy fix. Make sure your TV is turned off and remove the jumper with a pair of needle nose pliers. Just keep it in case you may need it in the future. I will post a picture to show you where the jumper is located.
Most times color does not to be reset. If you have a very ugly green or blue picture, then you did not pull the jumper on the dm board. This jumper must be removed when a bering type color wheel has be replaced with a new airless bering color wheel.
When I removed the jumper wire the screen color problems I experienced after changing the color wheel were fixed completely. I did not need to reset the CCA values (which came with my color wheel, on a separate sticker). If you have a black bracket blocking access to the jumper wire, as I did, you can access the jumper wire by removing the fan shown just to the left of the yellow and white sticker; there are two screws attaching the fan to the chassis below it. Next, remove the two screws that hold the silver clamshell (the housing for the circuit board) halves together. These screws are right behind where the fan just was, on either side of the protruding fins. They each have a spring under the screw head. You can then pull the visible half of the silver housing forward (with the bracket attached). You will then have access to the entire circuit board. Look for CN810 - it is located right behind where that bracket just was when it was all put together. Pull the tiny black plastic part (that has the jumper wire) off of the pins. Then reassemble the housing and put the fan back on.
the color wheel may spin but if you hear noise when it spins it's bad. the jumper is used when replacing one type of color wheel for a nother type. so donot remove jumper unless you've replaced the color wheel and the picture is bad. if the color wheel is good replace the DMD board. if the DMD is not available replace the optical engine.