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Hi there, try the following; disconnect your remote lead, connect the remote terminal to the positive terminal with a piece of wire. If the amp powers up then the remote output from your headunit is at fault. You can connect the remote lead to a switchable live at the headunit end to work around this problem. The amp will switch off when you switch the ignition off and vice versa. If that doesn't work then there may be a problem with your positive feed so check your fuse (there should be one near your battery where you see the amp cable connect) If that doesn't work, check how secure your earth lead is, kicker amps use a lot of power so these connections need to made to a clean metal surface. Scrape the paint away if you need to, make sure you have bare metal to connect to. Lastly, if you have only just installed the amp, check that you have thick enough power cable. As I said before, the amp will draw a lot of current, if the main power cable is too thin then you may not be getting enough current to power the amp. Hope this is helpful.
i've already test my amp and crossover by putting jumper fr/ B+12 to remote and both turned on,i'll be using ipod or mp3 player for music output thats why it made me confuse of the remote connection,yeah i'll just make a switch for the both of them beside so i could turn them off,thanks guys you help a lot,i used to set up old amps and they don't have remote switch they already have a built in switch.it's been a while,i should be chatting you guys to get informed,thanx again guys
does it function properly with just the power and the ground?If so try using a ordinary fuse breaker(switchable on/off) and mount it in the cabin of the vehicle where you have easy access to it and can shut it off and turn it on when you need to- Its not necessary to have the remote lead connected to it if it functions well without it.
According to Audiobahn's specifications, the amp is stable at 1ohm, either with the channels driven separately or in bridged mode. With the channels driven separately, the rated output is 1,200 watts at 1 ohm. In bridged mode, the rated output is 2,400 watts.
You'll need an absolute minimum of 2gauge power and ground, and preferably 1/0gauge and a really good alternator to provide enough current for the beast.
Check the connection with the subs. See if all wires are connected or check for any break in the wire. Also make sure that the RCA's are connected to the subwoofer output at the back of your deck. Also check setting on your AMP.
are you absolutely certain your subs are in good shape? have you put a meter on them and measured the ohms as you depress the cone [causing the cone to move up and down on the pole of the magnet? do the ohms stay constant? go up to infinity[ suggesting an open] or go to zero or close to zero [ suggestting a short] both of these conditions will result in a zero or a very limited output from your amplifier, while still showing a green status light, if or when a full short or open occurs on the subs, a fault led will become lit, and whet that means is that u have fried the outputs....do a bit more testing with your vom....and good luck or try another speaker for testing purposes...
schematic & instructions on deck
red (+) - power - 2 amp's power inlet power (+)
black (-) - ground - 2 amp's power inlet ground (-)
deck yellow wire - remote - 2 the remote amp
deck outputs 2 the RCA amp inputs
amp RCA outputs 2 speakers
it is wise that a pro will install the system
it will give u less concerns and u will have warranty on the installation
this will save u the money u will spend for fixing a bad installation