Thanks Doc. I took the front panel off, and started my dryer. The igniter glows and then throws a flame for about 10 seconds and goes out. Comes back on about 20 seconds later, stays on 10 seconds, goes out again, and so on and so on. I noticed the flame rolls back a little and hits the ceramic box on the igniter. Is that normal? Maybe the box ( don;t know what its called) getting hot and shutting the flame down? Or do you think it's still the selenoids.
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I have ran into the flame sensor going out on units causing the same issue. Or it can be the gas coils or ignitor that can be going bad. You may have to take some time and remove the lower front panel and watch the flame and how it cycles. It should cycle on and off to control the temperature inside the unit. Watch the ignition process for at least 5-10 ignitions. If at any time the ignitor glows red and then clicks off. And the gas does not come out to ignite, then you have gas coils going bad.
Sounds like burner not igniting. On front of dryer in the lower right there should be a gas valve/burner access panel. Usually you just have to pry out at bottom of panel & swing out and up to remove. This gives you access to valve coils and igniter. With panel removed set timer for heated dry and start dryer, observing first the igniter which should glow bright orange-red, then after a couple seconds you should hear a "Click" which is gas valve opening and a blue flame ignites for heat. If no glow is seen after a few seconds or at least a minute, igniter is bad, if it does glow and no click is heard from the gas valve, the coils (electro magnets) on the valve are bad, or the "Flame present" sensor is bad. Chances are it's either the coils or igniter.Try this on all heat settings, if you get heat at only one setting it might be in timer contacts, but not common. Again you can repair/replace both the igniter (usually just plugs into a receptical) and the coils (2 donut looking objects on the gas valve, replace both.) Access door may be on back if not on front, but normally their on lower right of front.
On the gas valve are one or two coils (solenoids) used to open and close the valve to control the flow of gas. If a coil fails, gas will not flow and the dryer will have no heat.
The easiest way to diagnose a problem in the burner assembly is to observe the burner operation. Remove the small access panel at the bottom, front of the dryer, select a high temperature setting and start the appliance. Watch the burner assembly, shortly after starting the dryer the ignitor should begin to glow. Next you should hear the click of the gas valve coil and a flame should ignite. The flame should be mostly blue and it should remain on for a minute or more.
If the ignitor glows for several seconds (up to 15 seconds) and then goes out, the problem is probably the coils (solenoids). If the ignitor glows and stays on, then the problem is usually the flame sensor. If it ignites and then quickly goes out, it is most likely a problem with inadequate air flow.Test the coil for resistance using a multimeter. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X10. Place a probe on each terminal. The multimeter should change from a reading of infinity to roughly 1300 ohms (+/- 150 ohms) when the probes touch the terminals. If the reading is infinity or substantially different from 1300 ohms, the solenoid should be replaced.
The orange glow is the ignitor. If the ignitor is glowing but the gas does not light then the flame sensor may have to be replaced. If the gas ignites but does not stay on either the flame sensor or the coils are at fault. See also: http://home.howstuffworks.com/how-to-repair-a-dryer.htm
Watch the burner assembly, shortly after starting the
dryer the ignitor should begin to glow. If it glows for several
seconds (up to 15 seconds) and then goes out, then the problem
is probably the solenoids (coils). If the ignitor glows and stays
on, then the problem is usually the flame sensor.