Question about GE Spectra JBP78 Electric Kitchen Range

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Is audible and visible arcing inside the coil switches acceptable?

As the stovetop coils go on and off, the contacts inside the switches arc visibly and audibly. This appears scary. Is it a threat? Should they be replaced?

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Hello donna h57
welcome to fixya

You said,
As the stovetop coils go on and off, the contacts inside the switches arc visibly and audibly.
This appears scary. Is it a threat? Should they be replaced?

This is dangerous!
CALL service.
BEWARE: Danger of shock or electrcution!
Thank God you asked me and did not wait long!
I wish I was there hands on to help you.
Please be careful!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Please remember to leave a rating before you go!

Posted on Oct 03, 2008

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Why is stove top arcing?

A faulty ground or a hole in the heater coil. Replace the coils & check and clean the ground connection.

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We have an electric jenn air stove,Has 2 coil burners on left, two flat on right, with a vent in middle.The oven istaking a long time to heat up and to cook. Now the bottom coil will not shut off.

Unplug the stove from the outlet or turn off the circuit breaker to the stove at the service panel.

Remove the elements (coils) in question; (The coil elements pull out of their socket connections) Do they show any visible signs of blistering or breakage? Replace them.

No visible signs of damage, use either an analog or digital multimeter to perform a continuity test.

A continuity test will determine if a continuous electric path is present in the element or not. If continuity is present, the coil is okay. If there is no continuity, the electrical path has been broken and the coil will have to be replaced.

Set your meter dial to the Ohms scale, lowest setting.

If using an analog meter, you'll first have to calibrate the meter by touching the tester's probes together and adjust the needle to zero.
(You don't have to calibrate a digital multimeter the same way you would an analog meter, for obvious reasons)

Proceed with the test by placing one of the meter's probes on one end of the coil element's terminal and the other meter probe on the other terminal end of the coil. If you get a reading of 0-50 Ohms of resistance, the coil is okay.

If there is no needle movement on the analog meter or no change in the digital read out, the coil is burned out and will need to be replaced.

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A broken or cracked coil can arc and burn. This is usually caused by age. The part can usually be replaced easily and inexpensively purcahed on line from sources such as


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Burner will not get hot enough

When the burner arced out it probably also ruined the switch. Most switches on a standard electric range have 5 wires. 2 wires to the burner. 2 hot wires from power and a smaller wire which connects to the indicator light marked P. It is easy to test the switch Unplug the stove. Turn the suspect switch on wide open. Check for continuity between the 2 terminals going out to the burner marked H1 and H2
If you cannot get a reading then the switch has failed. Note: when replacing the switch usually on most stove the replacement will not be or look like the original HOWEVER it will still have L1 and L2 H1 and H2 and P but the terminals are not always in the same order. If you fail to correctly connect the new switch you will fry 2 switches when both get turned on. Ouch!

Aug 30, 2012 | Kitchen Ranges

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Our Viking range is all of a sudden making a buzzing/humming noise. It comes and goes as the unit is on. It seems to start when it reaches a certain temp. then it stops for awhile. Do you know what it...

If it comes from the control panel, it may be a transformer for the control electronics or a relay coil. Sometimes a relay or transformer mounted on sheet steel will vibrate if a mounting screw works loose. That's easy to fix. Occasionally a coil inside the relay or transformer will develop a loose winding - the best repair for that is get a new one.

If the buzzing is specific to one (electric) burner, it could be arcing at a bad connection.

Oct 27, 2010 | Viking Kitchen Ranges

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Burners do not ignite via igniter. I can light via a match so I know I have gas flow. I can hear thhe igniter clicking but still no ignition.

Sometimes the igniter point gets dirty due to food or grease and it will not make a spark check the point. Another issue I've found is that the distance between the point and the burner has changed either by something falling on it or so. This causes the point to not create an arc.
The best way to find out what's happening is to observe the point to see if an arc is visible.
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Oct 10, 2010 | GE Profile 30" Self-Cleaning Freestanding...

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I have a 36" heartland range and the oven does not work. A few times I have reset the breaker and then it works, although now even that does not work. The gas top works fine ande the digital display unit...

If you had to keep resetting the breaker that means the electric element was shorting, arcing and therefor drawing too much amperage. The reseting of the breaker kept allowing it to spark start. The high voltage would occasionally create its own bridge from the heat expansion to make a connection and work. But the use of the unit under these conditions kept destroying the heating element even more. A few things need to be checked now. The heating coil, and the high voltage wires inside and out. There is no telling where the damage may have traveled now. Hopefully it only killed the heating coil.

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Stove burner gets red hot

Since you do not have a thermostat control on your burners, I would suspect you may have an infinite switch (burner control), that controls that particular burner, possibly starting to go bad. The thermostat control is located on the infinite switch itself and may be cycling on and off improperly. Its hard to tell with intermittent problems, however. If in doubt, you can do a comparison between a working 8" inch burner and the one you are having problems with.

Another thing to consider with these coil type plug in burners, the receptacles under the cook top that they plug into can gradually become loose over time and cause the burners to arc. This may also cause excess current flow through the burner and will eventually cause burner coil damage and/or receptacle failure. I would troubleshoot this by, first, by unplugging the appliance and inspecting all the burner receptacles. If any show signs of burning or melting, replace them. You will need to lift the cook top to access them. Locate the screws under the bottom front edge of the cook top (open the oven door to see them) and remove them. With the screws removed, the cook top will lift up. Prop in place using the hinge supports.

NOTE: Remove the burner coils and bowls before lifting the cook top.

Replacements parts (including burner receptacles) can be purchased at,,, or

If you have any questions, please let me know. I hope this helps you.

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Tom (Tchange): I also had arc/pop/short of SSB like g_royer. This was preceded over a few days by the Element ON indicator always ON (with all surface select switches OFF). I found the arc marks and burns on the SSB and replaced it. Element ON indicator went OUT, but like you, element no longer heats. I just checked continuity for each of the relays on the Lockout Board. In spite of the error designation on the Wiring Diagram (swapping P3 with P6), I found an OPEN relay for that element. Now to order the Lockout Board, just like g_royer.

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Hi Mike,

The Dial/Swiitch Has A Fault, Or The Igniter Electrode is Touching, or too Close To The Contact Area.
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Mike @ Compurepair.

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