Question about SPL DK-2600D Car Audio Amplifier

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Exploded 5 resistors need a schematic

My amp is a spl dk-2600d phantom series, and it blew up, no one around here will work on it and i myself am able to preform the repairs but dont have access to a schematic for the board. if anyone is able to help me out here.

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  • gremlin1123 Jan 25, 2009

    i can help you if you can help me. if you tell me the location of the resistors i can give you the value but i need the same thing done for me i need the value of (R254, AND R101) you can email me.

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  • Master
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I don't have the schematic but if you can send me a photo of the inside of the amp, I may be able to tell you the values of the resistors. Many of the class D amps are clones.

babin_perry@yahoo.com

Posted on Oct 02, 2008

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I have a Yamaha IM8. I had a condenser mic hooked into channel one with phantom power on. I had to leave the room for a while and when I came back, I noticed some rather severe popping in the audio. I turn...


There is really no way for a condenser mic to damage the board UNLESS you break the ground and get a static discharge into the input. That can happen with any microphone and has NOTHING to do with the phantom being on or off. As phantom power goes on and off slight bias at the input preamps can make amps non-linear causing the raspy sound you heard. The Phantom LED means NOTHING as it shows the state of the phantom switch by connecting a 12 volt source through a resistor to the LED... It shows NOTHING regarding the state of the 48 volt supply. Each input circuit has two 6.8Kohm resistors to the swinger of the phantom switch 2nd pole that either grounds those or connects them to a filtered 48 volt source. As long as you don't have a static buildup there is NO need to turn phantom power on or off while connecting a condenser microphone. At each input when using the XLR jacks are two per side 470pf capacitors for RF bypass. For the XLR's there is a 10Kohm between the signal lines and two series 10mfd/50 volt caps in series of each input to block the DC, when using phantom power, from reaching the preamp stage. These caps have to charge and discharge when changing the state of phantom power so you should AVOID having the main amps being driven while changing the state of any phantom power. Always have the fader(s) down and any monitors down to avoid a thump and also the non-linear raspy transition as the input caps charge/discharge. So fix the microphone... don't know what type you have, but DO check the cable (first) as ALL three conductors MUST be good for a condenser mic to work on phantom power. A ground leakage or noisy connection will cause your symptoms. Use a SHORT known good cable right at the board to test the mic. The 48 volts is applied through the two 6.8K resistors between both the signal lines to the shield of your XLR cable. The microphone picks off the 48 volts with a similar circuit.
Now let's cover a very important thing regarding system safety: ALL, and I do mean ALL interconnected equipment MUST be powered from the same source. Professionals run a power cord back to their mixer right alongside the snake. This is to avoid ground bounce damage due to bad building grounds or ground faults.

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Even withou the help of any diagram you have a visual indication. Look inside to the area of the burn. identify the component. check around the burned area for the cause of the burn. it could be the failue of the output or the power side. equipped with a multimeter you must be able to identtify stage by stage the short of the circuit. remove, replace and test. afterwards connect the woofer - check if your woofer coils are damaged too- Hope this helps? Good day

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I'm working the same problem. Q127 shorted, R217 & R 133 open. Also have solder blown off one end of R222 and R351 (both sm 200 ohm). Looks like small, short trace evaporated on top layer between D145 and via directly below it. Q129 is open all ways (but not exploded).
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Did you put a new fuse in it? If you didn't then put a new fuse that is rated at what the amp calls for. If you have and the light stays on, then odds are there is a broken wire inside and the amp needs repairing or replacing.

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I'll assume that you've checked the amplifier's on-board fuses.

With your multimeter set to DC volts, the black meter lead on the ground terminal of the amp (not on the point where the ground wire connected to the vehicle) and the head unit on (so the amp will have remote voltage applied), touch the red lead alternately to the B+ and remote terminals of the amp. If the voltage is below ~11 volts, you need to check the wiring feeding whichever line is too low.

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2 Answers

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I had the same problem with my Saffire: the phantom power voltage quickly drops when switched on, causing the mic to cut out. This problem is common in older Saffires, and is well known to Focusrite support (a modification in newer-production units solves the problem).

The problem is that a tiny 100 ohm surface-mount "chip" resistor in the phantom power circuit fails due to insufficient power-handling capability. (This is "R196" in the phantom circuit.)

The fix is to replace the "chip" resistor with a "normal" 1/2 watt metal-film resistor (with wire leads), mounted upright on the circuit board.

I replaced the resistor myself, following directions (and photos) sent to me by Focusrite Tech Support.

The procedure is somewhat fiddly (a Swiss watchmaker could probably do OK). If you've never soldered before, DON'T EVEN TRY THIS, and if you've never worked with surface-mount components, I would ask your electronics-hobbyist buddy to do it for you.

Here is the procedure sent to me by Focusrite:


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Dismantling the Unit

Remove the 7 screws on the rear panel.
Remove the 4 screws on the underside of the unit.
Lift away the metal cover.
Remove the 4 small black screws securing the MIDI In/Out sockets.
Remove the single screw securing the S/PDIF In/Out sockets.
Remove the two screws securing this PCB to the chassis.
Gently pull the PCB away from the rear panel and move it through 90 degrees towards the front panel.
Place the unit on its front and support the PCB with some suitable non-conductive item.

Modification Procedure

All the components mentioned are located in the same area on the same PCB (see photo).
It is best to remove the coil and capacitor (as shown in the second photo), as this gives easier access to the components.
Remove R196 and measure its resistance. If it does not measure 100 ohms, replace it.
Use a conventional type (100 ohms metal film, .5 or .6 watt) mounted upright as shown in the photo. Before fitting this resistor, check that the three zener diodes DZ11, DZ12 (22v) and DZ9 (3.3v) are OK and have not shorted out. (Diodes are 500mW, 5% tolerance)

Testing units for Phantom Power problems

Connect a condenser Mic or suitable dummy load* to Channel 1.
Engage +48 switch.
Measure the DC voltage between XLR pins 2 & 1 on Channel 2 Mic Input XLR.
Faulty units usually read around +28Vdc and the voltage gradually drops.
Good unts will measure +48Vdc +/- 0.7Vdc.

* Dummy Load for testing: Solder a 20,000 ohm resistor between pin 2 and pin 1 of a male XLR plug and another 20,000 ohm resistor between pin 3 and pin 1 of the same XLR plug.




Here are the photos:


9091702.jpg


2a48ecf.jpg


d4628df.jpg



My Saffire has worked perfectly since I replaced the bad resistor.

Good Luck!

Ken

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1 Answer

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hmm i would start by checking the wiring in your truck. make sure nothing is grounding out (short). if still happening try hooking the amp up to a battery out side of the vehicle and see if the light is still on. if so u need a new amp

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