Question about Hotpoint 24 in. HDA3400G Built-in Dishwasher

1 Answer

Whirlpool Dishwasher ADG7540/1

Hi. Can anyone kindly advise how one can test a 'Probe Feeler NTC' used in above Dishwasher ? Heater element tests okay but receives no voltage during cycle and as a result water in Dishwasher does not heat up but Dishwaher still works it's full cycle but with cold water. Would appreciate you guidance to fix this heating problem. Thanks.

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  • 12km Oct 04, 2008

    Hi Tresilla.

    Hope you are well and thanks for this advice.

    Heater tests okay at 25 ohms. Traced heater wiring to electronics control board and relay contacts. Both okay. Tested relay - also okay. Seems relay is not getting energised during cycle which may now point to either a problem in the Control PCB or a device that generates feedback to trigger relay via this PCB.

    Have a good day.

  • 12km Oct 05, 2008

    Hi Tresilla,

    Noted, thanks. Had poured hot water onto the NTC and noted that it's resistance did drop at hot temperature and rose again as the water cooled down.

    Is it okay to place a short or open circuit across the NTC input to the control board as a diagnotic test ?

    Have a good day.

  • 12km Oct 05, 2008

    Hi Tresilla.

    Caution noted, will not short it.

    Any guidelines on the range of resistance that can be expected on the NTC ? Just in case although it may be varying with temperature it may be out of range due to a problem ?

    Thanks.

  • 12km Oct 09, 2008

    Hi Tresilla,

    Hope you are well. Happy to be able to advise that the Dishwasher is now working okay with heating. Had looked for replacement control board but found it to be too expensive for such an old dishwasher. Re-installed all old components and wiring and surprisingly it's working again. Will probably fail again in time as we have not really fixed anything.Will now wait till then....

    Your original suspicion - dry joint or HR connector - is possibly the correct diagnosis. Thank you for all your kind advice.

    Have a good day.

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An ntc is very reliable. have you checked continuity thro the heater? other common fault is a dry joint devoloped on the control card - take it out and check for dry joints

Posted on Oct 03, 2008

  • douglas smith Oct 04, 2008

    ntc if you didn't know stands for negative temperature resistor



    to test, take it out and measure across terminals with a good ie high impedance multimeter



    you should be able to see resistance change as temperature changes - one way is to put ntc on the sole of an iron

  • douglas smith Oct 05, 2008

    don't recommend shorting out the ntc terminals - don't know what effect it would have on the control card

    all points out to a control card fault

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do the following steps: God bless you
To start test program, press and hold both POWER SCRUB PLUS and RINSE & HOLD program buttons, then turn unit on by pressing ON/OFF button. When program buttons are released, lights above them will flash. To end test program, press ON/OFF button.To check program indicator lights (POWER SCRUB PLUS, REGULAR WASH and RINSE & HOLD), press and hold each program button. When REGULAR WASH program button is pressed, CLEAN light also comes on.
To start testing, press both POWER SCRUB PLUS and RINSE & HOLD buttons a second time. When testing has ended and a fault was detected, the following indicator lights will be lit:
POWER SCRUB PLUS = Heater fault
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RINSE & HOLD = NTC (temperature sensor) fault ? note circulation motor stops shortly after it started during an NTC fault
To check for heater, high limit or flow switch problems, start testing until heating starts. Using a meter with a current coil, measure current going into dishwasher. If current is ~ 11 A, then heater, high limit and flow switch are OK. If current stays at ~ 1.5-2 A, then heater, high limit or flow switch are faulty.
If water level switch (f1) has failed (opened), REGULAR WASH light will come on and unit will continually fill and drain where testing won't be completed. If flow switch (e5) has failed (opened), water won't heat (to 150?F) and water won?t stop circulating. If NTC probe (f2/f4) has failed (opened), RINSE & HOLD light will come on immediately and testing will end shortly after water has started circulating.
If more than one fault occurs, more than one light will be lit.

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P3 refers to one of the dishwasher's three temperature sensors: sump temperature, booster heater temperature, or rinse water temperature. The dishwashers control circuitry has determined one of them is open or shorted, or at least out of range.

Judging from the symptom you mentioned, that you see rapid temperature reading changes before it finishes filling, I'd say it's probably the sump probe (because that's the temperature displayed during the fill cycle), located under the large removeable screen inside the dishwasher.

To test or replace, remove the small access panel at the lower front of the dishwasher (2 screws).
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It's possible I'm wrong about which temp. probe P3 refers to. There is also a temp. probe on the booster heater and one on the rinse piping on the rear of the dishwasher. Test procedure is the same for all of them, although the probe on the rinse piping is not constantly subjected to hot water so testing at room temperature would result in higher resistance value (lower temperature means higher resistance for these temperature probes).

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Do the diagnostic test:
SHU 53 MODELS

To start test program, press and hold both SCRUB WASH and DELICATE/ECONO program buttons, then turn unit on by pressing ON/OFF button. Initially, control module version # will be displayed (e.g./ ?21? = version 1 with jumper). When wash program buttons are released, lights above them will flash. To end test program, press ON/OFF button.
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Thanks. Keep updated for any more query. You can rate this solution and show your appreciation.

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1 Answer

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Light's on mean you have power.

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To start test program, press and hold both POWER SCRUB PLUS and RINSE & HOLD program buttons, then turn unit on
by pressing ON/OFF button. When program buttons are released, lights above them will flash. To end test program, press
ON/OFF button.
To check program indicator lights (POWER SCRUB PLUS, REGULAR WASH and RINSE & HOLD), press and hold each
program button. When REGULAR WASH program button is pressed, CLEAN light also comes on.
To start testing, press both POWER SCRUB PLUS and RINSE & HOLD buttons a second time. When testing has ended
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POWER SCRUB PLUS = Heater fault
REGULAR WASH = Water filling fault (over or under filling)
RINSE & HOLD = NTC (temperature sensor) fault – note circulation motor stops shortly after it started
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To check for heater, high limit or flow switch problems, start testing until heating starts. Using a meter with a current coil,
measure current going into dishwasher. If current is ~ 11 A, then heater, high limit and flow switch are OK. If current stays
at ~ 1.5-2 A, then heater, high limit or flow switch are faulty.
If water level switch (f1) has failed (opened), REGULAR WASH light will come on and unit will continually fill and drain
where testing won't be completed. If flow switch (e5) has failed (opened), water won't heat (to 150ºF) and water won’t stop
circulating. If NTC probe (f2/f4) has failed (opened), RINSE & HOLD light will come on immediately and testing will end
shortly after water has started circulating.
If more than one fault occurs, more than one light will be lit.

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1 Answer

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BAD CONTROL BOARD TO TEST TO SEE IF THIS IS THE ISSUE RUN TEST PROGRAM
To start test program, press and hold both SCRUB WASH and DELICATE/ECONO program buttons, then turn unit on by
pressing ON/OFF button. Initially, control module version # will be displayed (e.g./ “20” = version 0 without jumper). When
wash program buttons are released, lights above them will flash. To end test program, press ON/OFF button.
To check each program indicator light, press its button. To check Cycle Countdown display, Refill Rinse Agent light and
REGULAR WASH light, press REGULAR WASH button (press Delay Start button to test Cycle Countdown display
alone). Cycle Countdown display will show "88" when REGULAR WASH button is pressed and "8h" when Delay Start
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To start testing, press both SCRUB WASH and DELICATE/ECONO buttons a second time. When testing has ended,
Cycle Countdown display will show a fault using codes below. If more than one fault occurs, code numbers will be added
together, (e.g./ “6” = faults 2 + 4).
0 = No faults detected 2 = Heating fault 8 = NTC (temperature sensor) fault
1 = Aqua Sensor ("Sensotronic") fault 4 = Filling fault F = Filling fault (display occurs during wash, not test)
To check for heater, high limit or flow switch problems, start testing until heating starts. Using a meter with a current coil,
measure current going into dishwasher. If current is ~ 11 A, then heater, high limit and flow switch are OK. If current stays
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If water level switch (f1) has failed (opened), display will show fault code "4" and unit will continually fill and drain where
testing won't be completed. If flow switch (e5) has failed (opened), display will show "0", water won't heat (to 150ºF) and
water won’t stop circulating. If NTC probe (f2/f4) has failed (opened), display will show fault code "8" immediately and
testing will end shortly after water has started circulating

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