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Re: RCAD52W20 wont power up.
Usually its recomended that CP150 be replaced with the Flyback. You can get the replacement flyback number 259296 and CP150 at the following link with free step by step installation instructions with pictures. Heres the link. http://servicemanuals.vstore.ca/
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This ia an old CRT TV, THERE IS NO POWER SUPPLY BOARD BY ITSELF that you can buy! I sure like to see this 'POWER SUPPLY BOARD' from TVPARTSANDMANUALS.COM!
The main board has power supply, controller, Flyback xformer, etc.
You need to do in-depth troubleshooting, check the H.O.T, Flyback xformer, caps, etc.
Discharged Flyback Transformer. Removed main pc board from bottom of TV and flipped over, no apparent damaged components or blown board traces were found. Noticed a lot of flux in various areas on the board that seemed unusual (maybe TV was worked on before as I bought a showroom demo at Circuit City). Used a plastic screwdriver to remove all flux between connections on ICs, Transformers, Flyback Transformer, and various other components. Cleaned all debris, dust and crud accumulation (TV is over 10 years old and there was alot around the Flyback Transformer) from both sides of board using a lightweight paint brush.
Used a magnifying glass to check all solder joints for possible cold solders and found none. Did the same for Power Supply Board. Checked various ICs and Power Transistors for opens or shorts (in machine) and they seemed fine. Reinstalled boards, said a few Hail Mary's and fired it up.
The protector Led no longer flashed under power and lo and behold I got picture and sound!
I cleaned the lens on the projectors (again 10 years of dust accumulation) did a magic focus adjustment and it works fine!
After reading other fixes, I fully expected it to die after 10 minutes so I left it on all day and against all odds it still works.
What was the fix......Dirt buildup on and around Flyback and other components,,,,,,Flux conducting electricity between contacts on Flyback and other components.....or oxidation on connectors between Power Supply and Main Board.....I don't know.... all I know is that for the moment I saved around $ 300 - 400 in repair bills by doing it myself.
Follow the cable conenction. The TV uses a big transformer to convert the electricity, it will have a hard connection to the power cable plugging into the back of the TV. then after the power is converted it generates current to the main component board to other items, etc..
There are several common failures on this model that can cause that symptom.What I usually do is first look for capacitors in the power supply that have vented(expanded and are bulged out at the top).The ones I usually find to fail are located around the heat sinks near the power cord input. Then I check the horizontal output transistor for a dead short.Which is continuety or low ohms reading between collector(middle leg) and emitter and base(two outer legs). If the horizontal output is shorted, you probably have a bad flyback transformer. This is a very common and inexpensive repair. Next I would remove board by releasing several plastic retainer clips surrounding pwr/defl pcb and test the three pico fuses located next to the flyback. Also I check the flyback transformer for cracked or cold solder joints around it's pins on bottom side of board. One of these tests should get you to the source of the problem. This is good free info. Good luck, Russmann.
You need to adjust the votages going to the crt's. As the flyback transformer starts to go out the voltages to the crts can go up and down causing the tv to shut off. It also causes red, green, or blue arced lines to show up on the screen. It can also cause some color fading in and out or flickering. Adjusting the voltages can fix the problem temporarily but in the long run it's a good idea to replace the flyback. Make sure you read up on how to do this safely.
Usually when the crt leaks onto the chassis it can be cleaned and the affected components only have to be replaced I am not sure what "chip" you are refering too, but most ICs can be purchased as a replacement part. usually the entire board wont need replacing unless the traces are destroyed or replacement parts are unavailable.