Took it apart,cable binds a little in some spots,discs measure within tolerance as do springs and steel plates,only they are1.4,1.6,and2.0mm mixed,manual says not too mix 2.0 and 1.4.there are three different spring retainer heights for this clutch? don't know for what reason. this one has 15's and they all had grooves worn in one side from the springs? i tried to put it back together with 13's and only 2.0 and 1.6 plates,the problem is my 40.00mm stack height, 8 steels and 9 discs still moves within the space between the hub plate and the spring plate when torqued to tolerance.can you help me understand this clutch?
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You need to either replace the bail spring or release any tension cause by the bail wire gap being too wide or to small. Take apart the bail wire and adjust the gap so that it doesn't bind when closing the bail.
first off, there are two kinds of disk brakes on bicycles; cable actuated and hydraulic. Your adjustment will be very different depending upon which type you have.
If you don't know what type you have it is easy to tell, there will be a brake cable sticking out the end of the caliper if they are cable actuated. If they are hydraulic, you won't see any cables on the calipers.
I can tell you now if you have hydraulic brakes you may not want to attempt this at home. They require a special bleeding kit specific to the particular brand and model that you might have. You will also need special brake fluid depending upon the brand of brakes, they are not universal, some use mineral oil others use particular DOT fluids. Additionally if you have hydraulic brakes and the levers are going all the way to the handlebars, then it sounds like you may have a bigger problem and have air in the lines and need a brake bleed job.
If you have cable actuated disc brakes then you can easily adjust them yourself with only a 5mm Allen wench.
First, run out the cable barrel adjuster on your brake lever until it is almost out.
Second, using the 5mm Allen wrench, loosen (don't remove) the cable clamp at the caliper. Now hold the cable end in one hand and push the actuating lever up until the pads contact the rotor. It is spring loaded so you will have to hold it in place with one, pull the cable through and then tighten the cable clamp.
Third, go back to the brake lever and you should not have any "play" in the lever or very little. Turn the cable barrel adjuster back into the brake lever and this will ease the brake pads off the rotor and allow the wheel to turn freely.
Often it will take several minute cable adjustments to get it right.
If the rotor is rubbing on the inner brake pad, you can adjust that pad in or out using the 5mm Allen wrench. The inner pad is "fixed" and doesn't move when the brakes are applied. You can access the Allen head bolt through the spokes with the long end of the wrench and make minor adjustments of 1/4 turn at a time. It could be tight, so you might need to put a box end wrench on the end of the Allen wrench to turn it.
Sure, cables always start stretching just before they snap, as one strand at time breaks and unravels. But is could also be a lack of oil in the transmission, friction material coming loose from previous slippage and binding, etc. You say the adjustment is ok, but how much freeplay does it have?
With click bindings on ski's or snowboards it's best to take to authorized service because if you adjust the release to work with to much or to little pressure your gonna end up dropping into a powder run and instantly losing your skis or getting hurt when they don't release under lot's of pressure plus it's based on factor's such as your weight. But you might be able to hit up the service tech to show you how to adjust them yourself so you don't have to pay, and you could probably find a manual on-line but I'm recommending to go to the tech.
if it is a multiplier reel most of the lever tension springs are the same. they can be bought from QUENTIN MILLMAN in portsmouth. they have a mail order branch and can be located on line.i have tried making my own springs but the dog leg has to be at the right angle.best buy the right one for a few pounds. regards barry.
it feel like the actuation of you're clutch lever does not disengage you're clutch plate ...i will think that you're clutch actuation arm ( the one the clutch cable get in... is not engage at the right place or the arm is not on the right spline)...spring and plate only is an issue when the clutch is sliping....