Question about kawasaki Full Suspension Mountain Bike Men

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'03 zx600rr clutch,will not adjust

Took it apart,cable binds a little in some spots,discs measure within tolerance as do springs and steel plates,only they are1.4,1.6,and2.0mm mixed,manual says not too mix 2.0 and 1.4.there are three different spring retainer heights for this clutch? don't know for what reason. this one has 15's and they all had grooves worn in one side from the springs? i tried to put it back together with 13's and only 2.0 and 1.6 plates,the problem is my 40.00mm stack height, 8 steels and 9 discs still moves within the space between the hub plate and the spring plate when torqued to tolerance.can you help me understand this clutch?

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  • amber512 Oct 02, 2008

    manual does not mention any such tolerance,only to measure deck height once you have torqued it to specs,which is impossible with the assembly still moving within the confines of the assembled space. something is missing, i need to speak with an experienced kawasaki mechanic on this issue,and you also did not mention the need for three different spring retainers and their effect.i would assume that it would compress the assembly further,but that is not the case,it has no effect on the deck height.

  • amber512 Oct 03, 2008

    why are you referring me to a microfiche? i don't need parts i need a solution to a clutch problem. no one is answering my questions. i need a kawasaki mechanic, if there is no such person out there then refund my money,because you are not helping.

  • amber512 Oct 04, 2008

    no one is answering my clutch problem i should be entitled to a refund.



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Alright, let's get nasty. First of all, who makes the clutch you are putting in and what is the part number. I want to set this up myself and see where you are confused.

Posted on Oct 04, 2008

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  • Todd Gale
    Todd Gale Oct 04, 2008

    Do not put the plates in the same slot as the other ones. Put the last two friction plates in different slot do not match the other ones, this slot does not go all the way in, causing the clutch to slip, because the last two friction plates where not all the way in.

  • Todd Gale
    Todd Gale Oct 04, 2008

    First, check the other end of the cable to make sure it's tight there. Now we'll proceed.

    Look for the locknut. It's a thin nut. It keeps the clutch cable from changing.

    Screwing or unscrewing that cable will affect where the clutch grabs. If you screw it in too far, the clutch won't start to grab until the lever is almost all the way out. If you screw it out too far, the clutch will start to grab right away when you start to let the lever out. I like to have the clutch start to grab a little before the lever is halfway out.

    After you've finished adjusting the clutch cable tighten up that locknut. But don't overdo it, since those threads are pretty thin. If it comes loose again, just tighten it a little more next time. You can put a tiny, tiny drop of locktite on it, but that makes it hard to change it later.

  • Todd Gale
    Todd Gale Oct 04, 2008

    Check the cable at bolth ends first you should have on average about the width of about a quarter at the leverl before it starts to pull on the clutch. Good luck let us know what happens

  • Todd Gale
    Todd Gale Oct 04, 2008

    Understand how the friction plates operate. They remove the gearing from the motor so shifting may be accomplished, without ripping the motor out of the bike. I am willing to be you have the assembly setup incorrectly. Check your setup one more time. The microfiche, as you call it, is an assembly schematic for your clutch assembly, broken down into three sections. But this is still how the unit assembles, just in an exploded view. Let me know if you want to reassemble the unit step by step and I will walk you through it, but I am not going to type it here, yet, unless you have it torn down and are ready to start from the beginning. Also, you said the cable "snags" in certain spots. Is this due to you bending the cable, the cable being frayed or the installation issue?

  • Todd Gale
    Todd Gale Oct 04, 2008

    Bro, I have tried to answer your questions, but you really do not explain the situation and it is impossible for me to see what you have done to this point. I have given the most likely suggestions to fix this, but again, without walking you through the steps, it is not possible to provide a solution that you can read and execute. You are not even willing to understand the microfiche as you call it is an assembly section of your particular clutch assy, with the part numbers and in their specific order. If you truly would like assistance, YOU HAVE TO PAINT THE PICTURE, for me. Otherwise, yes you are entitled to a refund and can request one at any time.


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I am not an expert on these but it being a slipper clutch it will have to be loose to allow some slippage and i believe that it is centrifigul engaged to tightened .

Posted on Oct 02, 2008

  • TripleTauto
    TripleTauto Oct 02, 2008

    pardon my ignorance i researched and see it is exact opposite of what i said it slips on decel.

    what is the tolerance for the space in the hub plate? i would think this would be more important than the deck height

  • TripleTauto
    TripleTauto Oct 02, 2008

    like i said not an expert just saw where no one was helping you and was trying to suggest something


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1 Answer

Knocking cluch

How much free play on the clutch cable or is it hydraulic? You must have some free play, if you do not this could be the cause off slipping in 5th gear. Also if all the plates look good , not flaked or burnt, the proper thickness, then you need to check the clutch pack clearance: this is .010 per plate set (one friction/steel). some clutches need to be shimmed to reduce the clearance. Then you can sand/ up the steel plated with 60 - 100 grit sand paper on both sides and put in new springs or a stronger aftermarket spring set. I hope this helps. As for the noise I would ask a dealer as I am not to sure about that. Thanks Rod

Jul 25, 2015 | 2001 Yamaha Royal Star Venture

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Clutch and plates replacement can be performed on the motorcycle without removing the clutch shell or hub.

FIRST remove the primary chaincase cover. THEN remove six metric bolts to release the clutch diaphragm spring retainer from the clutch hub by loosening each bolt gradually and in a star sequence around the Hub circumference and then remove the diaphragm spring retainer, the diaphragm spring and pressure plate from the clutch hub and after the pressure plate has been removed remove the 9 friction plates, the steel plates, the damper spring and the damper spring seat from the clutch hub. Clean and inspect as necessary and wash all parts except for friction plates (and any bearing if removed) in appropriate cleaning solvent and then blow parts dry with low pressure compressed air as high pressure compressed air is unnecessary and dangerous. CHECK the friction plates by blowing off all lubricant from them BUT DO NOT wipe them off with a rag if they are going to be reused. THEN measure the thickness of each plate with a dial caliper or micrometer and if any plate is less than 0.143 in. (3.62 mm) thick throw them all away and replace them with a complete new set. ALSO look for worn or damaged fiber surface material on all sides. If new friction plates will be installed soak them all in FORMULA+ TRANSMISSION AND PRIMARY CHAINCASE LUBRICANT (or whatever equivalent oil that you will be using in the primary after reassembly) for at least five minutes. THEN CHECK the steel plates for any grooving, bluish colouring (which indicates overheating/burning and which is usually accompanied with distortion/warping) and check for distortion by laying each plate on a machinist or other precision flat surface and try to insert a 0.006 inch (0.15 mm) feeler gauge between the plate and the precision surface. Do this in several places around the plate. If the feeler gauge slips under any plate or any plate is grooved, bluish or otherwise appears to be defective discard it and replace with a new plate. THEN rotate the clutch hub and shell to check for bearing smoothness and replace the bearing if it runs roughly, binds or has any end play. ALSO check the primary chain sprocket and the starter ring gear on the clutch shell at this time and replace the clutch shell if either the sprocket or ring gear are badly worn or damaged. ALSO check the slots that mate with the clutch plates on both the clutch shell and the hub and replace the shell or hub if any of the slots are worn or damaged (wear here can cause clutch hang-up on release). NOW check the diaphragm spring and diaphragm spring retainer for cracks or bent tabs and replace if any damage is evident.

After having soaked the friction plates as advised above first install the narrow friction plate on the clutch hub, engaging the tabs on this plate with the slots in the clutch shell then install the damper spring seat (sometimes called a judder spring) on the clutch hub so that it sits inboard of the previously installed narrow friction plate with the concave side out (facing away from damper spring

seat) (that will be with the narrow side facing into the clutch hub and the wider side facing out) THEN install a steel plate with the round edge (produced when the plate was stamped out from a larger piece of steel) outward and then install a regular friction plate onto the clutch hub and continue by installing the seven remaining sets of steel and fibre plates in the same manner, alternating between steel plates and friction plates so that no two steel are touching each other and so that no two fibre plates are touching each other and then when they are all in place install the pressure plate onto the clutch hub aligning holes in the plate with the threaded bosses on the hub. THEN install and seat the diaphragm spring into the recess of the pressure plate with the concave side inward and with the holes in the diaphragm spring retainer aligned with the threaded bosses on the clutch hub tabs on the spring retainer contact flats on the inboard side of the bosses install the six metric bolts to secure the diaphragm spring retainer to the clutch hub and alternately tighten the bolts to 90-110 in-lbs (10.2-12.4 Nm). THEN install the primary chaincase cover with a new gasket and torque the fasteners to 108-120 in-lbs (12.2-13.6 Nm) in a sequence top to bottom from the centre to the front and then top to bottom from the centre to the back of the cover and then reinstall the primary case drain plug and o-ring and torque it to 14-21 ft-lbs (19.0-28.5 Nm). THEN refill the primary chaincase with lubricant only up to the bottom of the clutch diaphragm spring (if there is too much oil the clutch may drag). THEN adjust the clutch by turning the clutch adjustment screw in until it just resists and then with the cable slack somewhat removed operate the clutch lever a few times to set the clutch release balls in their ramps and then recheck the clutch release pushrod adjustment screw again so that it just resists tightening as it is screwed in and then back it out one half to one full turn and while holding it stationary tighten the adjuster screw lock nut. THEN the cable can be adjusted to provide one sixteenth to one eighth of an inch of freeplay at the clutch cable bracket or perch on the handlebars. THEN reinstall the clutch inspection (derby) cover with the five T-27 Torx screws and washers and alternatively in a cross pattern tighten the screws to 84- 108 in-lbs (9.5-12.2 Nm).

Jun 19, 2014 | 2006 Harley Davidson FLHRI Road King

2 Answers

Why is my clutch slipping

Without knowing all the variables here. How old is the clutch that is in the bike now? It may just be worn out, and need new fiber plates and discs put in it. Are all of the clutch springs the correct ones, or if they are old, might be time to replace them. When its slipping, what kind of riding are you doing ? in mud, sand, or on hard ground ? What size engine and bike do you have ? Is your clutch cable and adjuster the stock and correct pieces for your bike ? or aftermarket ? Have you had the clutch apart recently, and do you know for sure that you put it back together correctly ? ( See Service Manual ). Lots of variables to consider... without knowing, you might consider these things I have mentioned. Thanks.. Hopefully these will get you going again.

May 30, 2014 | 2003 Yamaha YZ 250

1 Answer

I have a 2002 KTM 520 mxc. The bike started shifting hard as it warmed up. I replaced the clutch plates and springs with a Barnett digger kit. Bike shifts good now, but is slipping at higher RPMs.

The cable may be binding or the clutch adjustments may be wrong; there is normally two adjustments that have to be made if it is a cable style clutch.

1. the first adjustment will be on the engine near the clutch push rod and normally has a screw and locknut that is to be adjusted. Turn the handlebar adjustment first all the way in so that the cable has a lot of slack in it. Untighten the lock nut from the lower engine adjustment screw so that it does not interfere with the adjustment screw moving. Turn the screw inward until a very light tension is felt on the screw, then back it out about an 1/8 inch or so. tighten the lock nut back down and see if the locknut and screw together will rotate about 5-10 degrees when turned (this adjustment must not be so tight that it can not rotate when checked or it could cause clutch slipping so make sure that the adjustment screw rotates some after the locknut is tightened.

2. The final clutch adjustment is made at the handlebar. Turn the adjustment screw on the handlebar out until the clutch lever has about 1/8 inch of movement (before any tension is felt on the clutch lever) when the clutch lever is first being squeezed. Do not make the 2nd adjustment without any slack in the cable or the clutch may also slip.

If this is a hydraulic clutch and it slips at high rpm, the clutches could be getting hot, the springs are wrong for the clutch, or the clutch and steel fibers have the wrong installed height for the clutch hub (check the original clutch fibers and steels against the new ones installed and see that they are the same thickness or look up that fiber/steel thickness in a service manual).

Jul 23, 2012 | KTM MXC 520 Racing Motorcycles

1 Answer

Clutch slips more than it should. 1982 honda goldwing feels like motor is misfireing

If the motor seems like it is idling roughly/misfiring try putting on a set of new spark plug caps on. You can purchase NGK brand for about $5 each ($20). I drove my first used GL1000 home from the dealership and was regretting the purchase it was running so terribly. I had the spark plug caps in my pocket on the way home. I changed the caps in the driveway and could not believe the difference. It was a completely different motorcycle. The resisters in the caps often burn out. If you check the caps with a voltage meter they should read 5000 OHMS. Anything higher or lower replace the cap.
It is possible to replace the clutch plates with the motor in the frame. The clearance is very tight. First, check that the clutch cable is not binding. This can cause the clutch to slip each shift and it is a lot easier to replace. Next smell the oil to see if there are burnt clutch plates. It may be easier to try replacing just the clutch springs. If they are below 1.35 inches (34.2 mm) they are below tolerance and need to be replaced. New tolerance is 1.4 inches (35.5 mm).Use only OEM Honda springs. If you inspect the clutch plates and they are warped, scored, or burnt replace the whole set with OEM Honda parts. Replace the cable first, then the springs, then the plates.

Mar 24, 2011 | 1982 Honda GL 1100 Gold Wing

1 Answer

1998 ford contour 2.5 ltr manual,stuck in second and have to hold the clutch in to move do i solve this issue?

SECTION 308-00: Manual Transmission/Transaxle and Clutch - General Information 1998 Contour/Mystique Workshop Manual DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION Manual Transaxle and Clutch Manual Transaxle and Clutch - General Information This section covers general procedures for diagnosis and testing the clutch system. For additional information, refer to Section 308-01 . For specified clutch system service procedures. For additional information, refer to Section 308-02 . For a complete description of the manual transaxle. For additional information, refer to Section 308-03 .
The clutch system includes:
  • Flywheel.
  • Clutch disc.
  • Clutch pressure plate.
  • Clutch master cylinder.
  • Clutch slave cylinder.
  • Clutch release fork.
  • Clutch release hub and bearing.
The clutch master cylinder transmits fluid pressure to the slave cylinder, which in turn moves the clutch release fork and the clutch release hub and bearing.
The clutch master cylinder uses brake fluid and shares a common reservoir with the brake master cylinder
The clutch is a single plate, dry-friction disc with a diaphragm-style spring clutch pressure plate. The clutch disc has a hub which is splined to the input shaft. The clutch disc has friction material where it contacts the flywheel and the clutch pressure plate. Torsion springs on the clutch disc help absorb the engine torque pulses. The clutch pressure plate applies pressure to the clutch disc, holding it tightly against the surface of the flywheel.
In the engaged position, the diaphragm spring holds the clutch pressure plate against the clutch disc, so that engine torque is transmitted to the input shaft. When the clutch pedal is depressed, the clutch release hub and bearing pushes the diaphragm spring center toward the flywheel. The diaphragm spring pivots at the fulcrum, relieving the load on the clutch pressure plate. Steel spring straps riveted to the clutch pressure plate cover pull the clutch pressure plate from the clutch disc, disengaging the engine torque from the transaxle and enabling the gears to be changed.
Inspection and Verification - MTX-75
The following checks should be carried out before repairing or replacing the transaxle:
Poor gear shifting
  1. Check the operation of the clutch: Lay a block of wood approx. 25 mm thick under the clutch pedal and depress the clutch pedal as far as the stop. If 1st or 2nd gear can be selected with no problem with the engine running and the parking brake applied, the clutch is OK. If the gear cannot be selected, repair the clutch.
  1. Check the selector mechanism:
    • The free play in the gearshift lever must be no more than 15 mm.
      • If the gearshift lever free play is too great, check the gearshift cables and replace them if necessary.
    • If the gearshift lever free play is OK, adjust the gearshift linkage. For additional information, refer to Section 308-06 .
  1. Check the transaxle fluid level and top up with Automatic Transmission Fluid ESD-M2C186-A if necessary.

Dec 21, 2010 | 1998 Ford Contour

1 Answer

2005 Heritage parked up for 12 months all fine. brought it out and now the clutch not working?

It sounds like the clutch is "stuck". This is when the fiber plates stick to the metal plates and will not disengage the clutch. You can try putting the transmission on high gear, pulling the clutch lever in, and rocking the bike back and forth a bit. If it's going to come loose, it'll do it in the first one or two bumps. If it takes more than that, you may damage the fiber discs.

To fix the problem, you must disconnect the battery, drain the primary, and remove the outer primary cover. Remove the six hex head bolts from the clutch spring holder and remove it and the spring. Then remove the fiber and steel plates one at a time. If you find any of them stuck together, pry them apart or soak them in gasoline until they come apart. Be careful in your use of gasoline as a cleaning agent. But, a varnish forms on the plates that mineral spirits or other solvents will not cut. Gasoline works but is very hazardous to use. Once you get the plates apart and cleaned, lightly sand the fiber discs using a figure "8" motion on a sheet of medium grit emery cloth. Reassemble the clutch and adjust.

To adjust the clutch, find the cable adjuster in the middle of the cable. Break the locknut loose and turn the adjuster inwards until you get a lot of slack in the cable. Then, go to the clutch and break the locknut in the middle of the clutch assembly loose. Turn the center bolt inwards until you feel a resistance. Do NOT force the screw, turn it inwards until you feel resistance. Then back the screw out about 1/2 turn and lock the locknut. Go back to the cable and adjust the adjuster outward until you get 1/8" of freeplay in the cable. Squeeze the lever a few times and recheck the freeplay. If correct, lock the locknut on the cable adjuster.

Good Luck

Nov 17, 2010 | 2000 Harley Davidson FLSTC Heritage...

1 Answer

Can't get the clutch on a suzuki 800 intruder to hold pressure

Oil should be 10W40 SF or SG grade. Anything else will cause the clutch to slip. There must be freeplay on the clutch cable (0.4-0.6in). Adjust handle bar clutch lever screw all the way out then adjust at gearbox end and revert to handle bar adjustment for fine adjustments. If this does not solve the problem take the clutch apart and measure driven plate thickness (3.12in minimum for the 1st plate and 2.62in minimum for the others)
Measure clutch spring free length. There are 2 sets (4 springs each). 0.97in minimum and 0.92in minimum respectively.
A slipping clutch is caused by incorrect friction, that is incorrect oil or insufficient pressure. Pressure is supplied by the springs on the discs and driven plates.
If the discs, driven plates or bucket is worn it will cause slippage.
If you pull in the clutch and it disengages but starts to re- engage after a short period you will need to replace the clutch master cylinder seals.

Sep 22, 2010 | 1994 Suzuki VS 800 Intruder

2 Answers

Clutch dragging on ktm 450 2008

there should be an adjustment on the clutch handle or cable.

Jul 05, 2009 | 2008 KTM 450 EXC-R

1 Answer

82 flh clutch adjustments

Doesn't matter. Sounds like you have it in properly, and the high end play you're getting can be adjusted out. Adjust it to where the you don't have the high end play, and also be sure that there is no low end drag. High end being 70-80 mph and low end being idle, I say this because I've had to deal with some weekend warriors lately that would like to work on their own bikes, but don't know their wank from a torque wrench. If you've installed your own clutch, I know I'm not dealing with one. Now, keep in mind that if you can't get the adjustment from the current set up, then you may need to add a friction, steel, or spacer, in order to get it working properly. I suggest adding a friction, however, you will have to keep within tolerance, so in some cases, a friction or steel won't work, and you have to go with a spacer. Also check the ramp and bearings, if you haven't already. A bent or worn ramp, or bad ramp bearing can cause a float at higher speeds. Let me know what you found.

Aug 10, 2008 | Harley Davidson Harley-Davidson Motorcycle...

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