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'03 zx600rr clutch,will not adjust

Took it apart,cable binds a little in some spots,discs measure within tolerance as do springs and steel plates,only they are1.4,1.6,and2.0mm mixed,manual says not too mix 2.0 and 1.4.there are three different spring retainer heights for this clutch? don't know for what reason. this one has 15's and they all had grooves worn in one side from the springs? i tried to put it back together with 13's and only 2.0 and 1.6 plates,the problem is my 40.00mm stack height, 8 steels and 9 discs still moves within the space between the hub plate and the spring plate when torqued to tolerance.can you help me understand this clutch?

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  • amber512 Oct 02, 2008

    manual does not mention any such tolerance,only to measure deck height once you have torqued it to specs,which is impossible with the assembly still moving within the confines of the assembled space. something is missing, i need to speak with an experienced kawasaki mechanic on this issue,and you also did not mention the need for three different spring retainers and their effect.i would assume that it would compress the assembly further,but that is not the case,it has no effect on the deck height.

  • amber512 Oct 03, 2008

    why are you referring me to a microfiche? i don't need parts i need a solution to a clutch problem. no one is answering my questions. i need a kawasaki mechanic, if there is no such person out there then refund my money,because you are not helping.

  • amber512 Oct 04, 2008

    no one is answering my clutch problem i should be entitled to a refund.

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Alright, let's get nasty. First of all, who makes the clutch you are putting in and what is the part number. I want to set this up myself and see where you are confused.

Posted on Oct 04, 2008

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  • Todd Gale
    Todd Gale Oct 04, 2008

    Do not put the plates in the same slot as the other ones. Put the last two friction plates in different slot do not match the other ones, this slot does not go all the way in, causing the clutch to slip, because the last two friction plates where not all the way in.

  • Todd Gale
    Todd Gale Oct 04, 2008

    First, check the other end of the cable to make sure it's tight there. Now we'll proceed.

    Look for the locknut. It's a thin nut. It keeps the clutch cable from changing.

    Screwing or unscrewing that cable will affect where the clutch grabs. If you screw it in too far, the clutch won't start to grab until the lever is almost all the way out. If you screw it out too far, the clutch will start to grab right away when you start to let the lever out. I like to have the clutch start to grab a little before the lever is halfway out.

    After you've finished adjusting the clutch cable tighten up that locknut. But don't overdo it, since those threads are pretty thin. If it comes loose again, just tighten it a little more next time. You can put a tiny, tiny drop of locktite on it, but that makes it hard to change it later.
    Curt

  • Todd Gale
    Todd Gale Oct 04, 2008

    Check the cable at bolth ends first you should have on average about the width of about a quarter at the leverl before it starts to pull on the clutch. Good luck let us know what happens

  • Todd Gale
    Todd Gale Oct 04, 2008

    Understand how the friction plates operate. They remove the gearing from the motor so shifting may be accomplished, without ripping the motor out of the bike. I am willing to be you have the assembly setup incorrectly. Check your setup one more time. The microfiche, as you call it, is an assembly schematic for your clutch assembly, broken down into three sections. But this is still how the unit assembles, just in an exploded view. Let me know if you want to reassemble the unit step by step and I will walk you through it, but I am not going to type it here, yet, unless you have it torn down and are ready to start from the beginning. Also, you said the cable "snags" in certain spots. Is this due to you bending the cable, the cable being frayed or the installation issue?

  • Todd Gale
    Todd Gale Oct 04, 2008

    Bro, I have tried to answer your questions, but you really do not explain the situation and it is impossible for me to see what you have done to this point. I have given the most likely suggestions to fix this, but again, without walking you through the steps, it is not possible to provide a solution that you can read and execute. You are not even willing to understand the microfiche as you call it is an assembly section of your particular clutch assy, with the part numbers and in their specific order. If you truly would like assistance, YOU HAVE TO PAINT THE PICTURE, for me. Otherwise, yes you are entitled to a refund and can request one at any time.

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I am not an expert on these but it being a slipper clutch it will have to be loose to allow some slippage and i believe that it is centrifigul engaged to tightened .

Posted on Oct 02, 2008

  • TripleTauto
    TripleTauto Oct 02, 2008

    pardon my ignorance i researched and see it is exact opposite of what i said it slips on decel.

    what is the tolerance for the space in the hub plate? i would think this would be more important than the deck height

  • TripleTauto
    TripleTauto Oct 02, 2008

    like i said not an expert just saw where no one was helping you and was trying to suggest something

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1 Answer

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1 Answer

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1 Answer

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SECTION 308-00: Manual Transmission/Transaxle and Clutch - General Information 1998 Contour/Mystique Workshop Manual DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION Manual Transaxle and Clutch Manual Transaxle and Clutch - General Information This section covers general procedures for diagnosis and testing the clutch system. For additional information, refer to Section 308-01 . For specified clutch system service procedures. For additional information, refer to Section 308-02 . For a complete description of the manual transaxle. For additional information, refer to Section 308-03 .
The clutch system includes:
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The clutch master cylinder transmits fluid pressure to the slave cylinder, which in turn moves the clutch release fork and the clutch release hub and bearing.
The clutch master cylinder uses brake fluid and shares a common reservoir with the brake master cylinder
The clutch is a single plate, dry-friction disc with a diaphragm-style spring clutch pressure plate. The clutch disc has a hub which is splined to the input shaft. The clutch disc has friction material where it contacts the flywheel and the clutch pressure plate. Torsion springs on the clutch disc help absorb the engine torque pulses. The clutch pressure plate applies pressure to the clutch disc, holding it tightly against the surface of the flywheel.
In the engaged position, the diaphragm spring holds the clutch pressure plate against the clutch disc, so that engine torque is transmitted to the input shaft. When the clutch pedal is depressed, the clutch release hub and bearing pushes the diaphragm spring center toward the flywheel. The diaphragm spring pivots at the fulcrum, relieving the load on the clutch pressure plate. Steel spring straps riveted to the clutch pressure plate cover pull the clutch pressure plate from the clutch disc, disengaging the engine torque from the transaxle and enabling the gears to be changed.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Inspection and Verification - MTX-75
The following checks should be carried out before repairing or replacing the transaxle:
Poor gear shifting
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  1. Check the selector mechanism:
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    • If the gearshift lever free play is OK, adjust the gearshift linkage. For additional information, refer to Section 308-06 .
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--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

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1 Answer

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To fix the problem, you must disconnect the battery, drain the primary, and remove the outer primary cover. Remove the six hex head bolts from the clutch spring holder and remove it and the spring. Then remove the fiber and steel plates one at a time. If you find any of them stuck together, pry them apart or soak them in gasoline until they come apart. Be careful in your use of gasoline as a cleaning agent. But, a varnish forms on the plates that mineral spirits or other solvents will not cut. Gasoline works but is very hazardous to use. Once you get the plates apart and cleaned, lightly sand the fiber discs using a figure "8" motion on a sheet of medium grit emery cloth. Reassemble the clutch and adjust.

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Good Luck
Steve

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1 Answer

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2 Answers

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1 Answer

82 flh clutch adjustments


Doesn't matter. Sounds like you have it in properly, and the high end play you're getting can be adjusted out. Adjust it to where the you don't have the high end play, and also be sure that there is no low end drag. High end being 70-80 mph and low end being idle, I say this because I've had to deal with some weekend warriors lately that would like to work on their own bikes, but don't know their wank from a torque wrench. If you've installed your own clutch, I know I'm not dealing with one. Now, keep in mind that if you can't get the adjustment from the current set up, then you may need to add a friction, steel, or spacer, in order to get it working properly. I suggest adding a friction, however, you will have to keep within tolerance, so in some cases, a friction or steel won't work, and you have to go with a spacer. Also check the ramp and bearings, if you haven't already. A bent or worn ramp, or bad ramp bearing can cause a float at higher speeds. Let me know what you found.

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