Question about Fisher and Paykel GWL11 Top Load Washer

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GWL-11 Fisher Paykel wont turn on and water on the floor

Power is ok, wont turn on at all, is it worth repair?

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  • jjhourany Oct 02, 2008

    My washing machine has been working fine lately.  We have had it for about 7 years, maybe a little longer and all of a sudden it has no power.  There is nothing wrong with the power source and I checked the fuse box.  Is the washer dead or can it be fixed and how much would that repair cost?

  • amrollins Oct 12, 2008

    no water on the floor, no power either, and power supply is fine. It's been unplugged and such, and is also about 7 years old. Same dilemma, repair or replace? We've loved this machine, and I am so spoiled to how much water is really spun out of these clothes. I even went to the laundry mat yesterday, and my clothes were much wetter coming out of their machines...sad day.

  • spangas Oct 15, 2008

    Mine is a Fisher and Paykel 5.5 Smartdrive. Guess there is an official model number somewhere, lots of LEDs across the top, no numeric display. Seems to have packed up, no sign of life whatsoever and stopped in mid wash cycle. 7 years old...must be the magic age to fail. Power is at the socket. Apparently had a bit of a burning smell. Has been playing up of late, stopping somewhere mid cycle which I could recover with a complete restart. But now nothing. From what I read I suspect water in the circuitry or a thermal fuse has gone...any more bright ideas?

  • Anonymous Mar 14, 2014

    will not turn on



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Look at my issue "eco smart won't drain, smells hot". Mine is top load.

If you see puddle on floor and eventually won't run at all and smell electric burn motor, it could be same issue I had.

Unplug washer. Tip washer back. If you see water dripping through the black motor area, you need to remove the black motor and the white plastic unit above it. Look for a white plastic clip that is attached to bottom of washing machine. Push that clip with your finger and twist the whole plastic unit/black motor. It all comes off in one piece.

Look on side of this unit and you will see 120V or 240V. Mine is GWL10US and is older model. Was told by repairman that new units use 120V. That is what you need to order. It comes as one piece and you just twist it back on. I had done most of this. Repairman came and 5 seconds cost me $65.

Posted on Oct 20, 2008

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I"m in the process of repairing my GWL10 right now. By the way, if you remove the little control console on the top (two philips screws), there should be a service supplement document inside with a number of useful diagnostic tips.

Mine appears to have a small leak spraying water from the inlet/mix valves that shorted out the motor controller. I can't complain, it has run like a top, or rather a jet engine (if you've ever seen the spin cycle), for 6 years now.

I found an invaluable resource here:

Posted on Oct 16, 2008

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Posted on Oct 12, 2008

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if you are sure the power outlet is ok then it can only be the lead or the electronics in the machine, if it has no life at all it can be a fuse on the main module but you need tobe qualified to play with those parts and it is not something that you can just pull out as they are soldered in in most cases
chers grantsreps

Posted on Oct 02, 2008

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When you get the water out the pump can be accessed from underneath, it turns anticlockwise to remove it,.
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